smt allignment?

[gimpy]

I am building a speaker box and need to check the smt allignment. The only articles that I have found so far on checking the allignment is from the "temporary link to the articles" section. Both articles (David Hawkins and Rod Kirby) are both for the bt3000. Since I have the 3100, will these bt3000 processes work on my 3100? Also, most of the articles there seem to deal with the 3000. Is there another site that has articles dealing mostly with the 3100 or is this one it?

I've never really done any checks on my 3100 before, just used the saw out of the box, but now (after a couple of years of real light use--and no use in the last year or so), I have started cutting for the box. The smt allignment does seem a little off. I'm getting ready to bevel some edges 45* and need it to be pretty accurate for that.

thx, for the help. Frank

[pelligrini]

From what I understand there is little difference between the 3000 and the 3100. I think it was mainly the shims and the motor & maybe the switch where the differences are. I've got the Sears 21829.

The alignment setup and components are exactly the same between the BT's.

[crokett]

The 3000 and 3100 are similar enough that most of the articles will work. The differences on the 3100 are color, the stand (splayed leg vs straight for the BT3000) and the shims.

[gimpy]

Thx, for the replys. Pretty much what I had thought. I've been out trying to get everything alligned and think that they are (at least the differences are so small, I can not really tell any major differences when doing these processes.).

Now, my next question. I have done some practive 45* bevels and they are not coming out even from the front to the back. The front edge (I'm just barely missing the mark) does not come to a point when running the stock thru (I purposely did this to "sneak" up on the exact line), but the back half of the cut does come out nice and sharp. So, there is a slight difference from the front to the back when going through the cut? (Make sense?).

thx, I will be doing some more testing after the Cardinals game. They just started, so need to get in there and watch them.

Go, Cards, Frank

[milanuk]

Frank,

Don't forget the classic:

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=33234

I need to go back and get my BT3100 tuned back up again. I did it several years ago, but since then misplaced my jigs (thats the problem w/ making quick-n-dirty jigs - they look too much like scrap!) and most stuff across the saw since then has been pretty much rough cut, so I didn't pay much attention to how square it was (not) cutting. Most recently tried to cut some shelf dividers for a project, and found that it was cutting several degrees off square! Time to start over and give it a thorough inspection, etc.

Monte

[gimpy]

Thx, Monte. I will try that process when I have time. Right now, Cards are getting whipped on pretty good and I have to get cleaned up to go into town for dinner at my son's place. Only have about an hour to get there. Don't think I'm going to make it on time.

I may have more questions later in the week/next weekend when I can get back to the project. I'm trying to match this speaker to some I already have (for WAF). They are oak veneeer. What I did was buy some pre-veneered oak 3/4 inch mdf to make it somewhat easier, but, it's not making it any easier (having to do roundovers (oak moulding, now and beveled cuts because the veneer is not on the edges).

Really making it hard to match/line everything up.

Thx, again, Frank.

[JR]

So, there is a slight difference from the front to the back when going through the cut? (Make sense?).

You haeven't given enough info to go on.

I agree it looks suspicious, but your assumption seems to be that previous cut was square. It may not have been. The only way to know if your aligmnent is good is to do cust using the SMT then check the newly cut surface for square in realation to the surface which rested on the SMT fence.

JR

[gimpy]

JR, I'm thinking you may have hit the nail on the head. I don't know if the piece I was cutting was square. I think I will study the link that milanuk sent me to and do some rechecking. But, it will have to wait until it warms up some around here a little.

thx for all the replys/help, guys.

Frank

[JR]

Frank, FWIW, I just put together a box for which I cut the miters using my SMT. I jacked around with my miter saw for days trying to get a square cut, to no avail.

A few minutes liniing up my SMT and, shrip shrop, I had box with perfect miters.

JR

[Lonnie in Orlando]

Frank:

As in the link in Monte's reply shows - align the Table first, then set the fence using Phil Bumbalough's "Five-Cut" method.

Here is another way that is not as accurate, but can be used for a fast "no-measure" double check using a 90deg / 60deg / 45 deg / or 30deg drafting triangle. You can set the fence to any other angle with a sliding bevel gauge.
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=36227


(Thanks, Monte for posting my "No Measure" method again. I haven't found anything better.)

- Lonnie

[gimpy]

Thx, Lonnie and all you who have posted. I have read and bookmarked those links so I can refer to them later. I say later because I had a little mishap this morning while using the snowblower to dig out from the 7 or 8 inches of snow we had overnight so I could take the wife in for her "procedure" at 6:30 this morning.

I got her there on time, but then had to call my son to take me to the ER to have my left middle finger sewed up. Although it's hurting and bandaged up, it will be OK, I think. It will keep me away from the shop for a day or two, though (just make sure the auger has quit turning completely before cleaning out the chute (red face goes here)).

thx, Frank (typing gingerly w/two fingers :>))