Using 'T-Nuts' to Mount Router Table

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  • Bob Bassett
    Established Member
    • May 2003
    • 132
    • Shalimar, Florida, USA.

    Using 'T-Nuts' to Mount Router Table

    I have a router top I bought from the 'Router Workshop' guys. I used the brackets in the accessory box on the bottom if the table top.

    Takes a lot of maneuvering due to rail cutout tolerances to get the top mounted and locked down.

    I'm thinking about lubricating the rail cutout and I wonder what would be best for the job.
    Bob Bassett from Northwest Florida
  • WeekEndDad
    Forum Newbie
    • Jan 2003
    • 68
    • Highland, Ca, USA.

    #2
    Is the router mounted directly to the top?
    Or do you have a table top with a dado'd cut out for the router and plate?
    This set up seems to be the best, that way you can change out the router and plate as needed.
    Or use the hand held Porter Cable spindle sander in a router plate.
    Much more versital and without the weight of the router easier to attach the table.

    Measure Twice, Cut Once!
    Then get more lumber!

    WeekEndDad's Home Page
    Email WeekEndDad

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    • Bob Bassett
      Established Member
      • May 2003
      • 132
      • Shalimar, Florida, USA.

      #3
      The Router is mounted to a drop-in plate. So, I just have to mount the table top by itself.
      Bob Bassett from Northwest Florida

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      • LarryG
        The Full Monte
        • May 2004
        • 6693
        • Off The Back
        • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

        #4
        Probably the best, and least messy, lubricant would be paste wax, or something like the Boeshield T-9 spray that will dry to a film. Anything that stays oily is likely to attract sawdust and gum up the works.

        I'm not certain this will help much, though. In my experience in mounting things to the rails using multiple T-nuts, the tolerances are so tight that the slightest amount of misalignment (cocking) causes one or more of the nuts to catch within the tracks. Waxing the tracks may make the nuts slide slightly more smoothly when everything is aligned nicely but as soon as things get slightly out of kilter, you'll probably be back where you are now. Still, it can't hurt to try.

        Out of curiosity, why are you taking the table on and off? Are you not able to leave it on the saw full-time?
        Larry

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        • thereefgeek
          Forum Newbie
          • Jul 2008
          • 6
          • Isleton, CA
          • BT-3000

          #5
          I used some 2X2 angle aluminum under my homemeade router top and T-Nuts to fasten it to the rails. The hardware is 1/4"-20, but the alignment holes in the angle stock are 5/16". That gives me some "wiggle room" for adjusting the height in relation to the saw table, both for a wide rip on the saw, and to use the rip-fence mounted router fence along the rails.
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          • Bob Bassett
            Established Member
            • May 2003
            • 132
            • Shalimar, Florida, USA.

            #6
            I Watched the Router Workshop Series for years and when it came time for a router table-top, I bought one of theirs. I added accessories to it over the years and since the inserts are not Porter Cable size, I have hung on to it. When it's mounted on the BT31K it interferes with the fence. What I should do is get longer rails or move them to the right. Then I could leave the table on the saw.

            Originally posted by LarryG
            Probably the best, and least messy, lubricant would be paste wax, or something like the Boeshield T-9 spray that will dry to a film. Anything that stays oily is likely to attract sawdust and gum up the works.

            I'm not certain this will help much, though. In my experience in mounting things to the rails using multiple T-nuts, the tolerances are so tight that the slightest amount of misalignment (cocking) causes one or more of the nuts to catch within the tracks. Waxing the tracks may make the nuts slide slightly more smoothly when everything is aligned nicely but as soon as things get slightly out of kilter, you'll probably be back where you are now. Still, it can't hurt to try.

            Out of curiosity, why are you taking the table on and off? Are you not able to leave it on the saw full-time?
            Bob Bassett from Northwest Florida

            Comment

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