Problems with quick release riving knife

[Stytooner]

Below are some pictures of the bracket I designed for the Ryobi's. The problem is that the spring plunger contacts a few things. I can lower the pin about 3/8" so that it doesn't hit the throat plate.

http://leestyron.com/ryobi/bracket/all.jpg

If you tilt the blade first and raise it all the way, it will contact the table underneath on the way up.

http://leestyron.com/ryobi/bracket/tophit.jpg


On the way down, it hits the dust shroud about 1.5" from bottom.

http://leestyron.com/ryobi/bracket/shroudhit.jpg

The mod's the saw would need is a hole drilled into the OEM mounting bracket where the spring plunger could seat even further and this would also make it safer because it would have a better lock on the knife.
This mod wouldn't be too bad. It could be done with the blade raised and tilted pretty easy.

The shroud would need to be cut back out of the way. Two cuts and then bend the tab back. This would allow it to bottom the blade out without hitting the plunger. Not alot, but at least 1/4" or so back and 1.5" deep.

I do plan on making these mods on my saw. I would like to get some feedback from you guys as to the willingness to make these mod's and pay $30 ish for the hardware with shipping.

Thanks, Guys and Gals.
http://leestyron.com/ryobi/bracket/align.jpg

http://leestyron.com/ryobi/bracket/bracket.jpg

http://leestyron.com/ryobi/bracket/insert.jpg

http://leestyron.com/ryobi/bracket/parts.jpg

http://leestyron.com/ryobi/bracket/parts2.jpg

http://leestyron.com/ryobi/bracket/tilt.jpg

[cgallery]

I'm happy with what I already have (a pre-shark RK made from aluminum, I bought it from someone here or the Ryobi forum, but I'm not sure it was you).

That said, I don't think I would have any problem drilling holes in my saw (or enlarging or making deeper existing holes) if I'm upgrading the functionality. I understand your concern that some people wouldn't want to do it, but I kinda equate it to adding an aftermarket fence or sliding table to a cabinet saw, some drilling may be required!

[dkerfoot]

This would be a fabulous upgrade and would really complete the product.
At $30, you can count on an order from me.

Just a thought - including paper templates for the mods, to eliminate possible misunderstanding of the directions/mis-measurements would be very welcome.

[LinuxRandal]

The drilling should be easy enough. Just add your adapter, and use it to align the drill.


That said, I do wonder how hard it will be to remove the knife as you still have some close clearances. I also wonder about only having the one connection point. Couldn't it have been made so it slid over the two bolts still, as well?

[Stytooner]

Templates and everything including instructions would be available.

The design has been used on the Dewalt 746 for about 4 years now. I know of no trouble with it.
If you think about it, this design is stronger than the one with two slots. If loose, they could conceivably pull out. They can't simply pull out of a locked pin. This is especially true when the complete thru hole is drilled. Once the knife is installed and is tight, there is no room for the steel to even warp or bend inside this bracket. Not that this is a problem with the original design.

Here are some specs on the bracket. It starts with 5/16" steel. I mill the relief for the knife. The threaded hole that accepts the spring plunger is tapped at 3/8-16. The plungers pin is 1/4" diameter. It is all steel construction. The three 6/32" set screws adjust pressure on the side of the knife to eliminate any side to side play of the knife. They apply pressure to a .01" thick brass shim. This lets the knife slide in easily. The hole in the knife is critical to get no play when locked in. It is, however easy to locate the center of when in the bracket and then be drilled with 17/64 drill bit.

Installation of the knife can be done at just about any height, however removal is dependent on the length of your finger to pull the ring. I have long fingers and I can release it easily at half way where it now hits the shroud.

If you switch back and forth to a dado blade or neglect to because you need to wrench some, then this addition will help, providing you are willing to do the few mods needed to complete the package.

As a side note, the same mod will work with the OEM blade guard, but with fewer features.

[steve-norrell]

Lee:

Looks like a good modification even for those who do not change blades very often. Three questions-comments:

I looks as if the mod would be reversible in that drilling the hole into the mounting bracket would not prevent a person from using the OEM method of mounting the riving knife if they wanted to.

It also looks as if right-to-left alignment of the riving knife with the blade is achieved by using OEM shims on the right side (standing in front) of the knife.

Admitting ignorance of saw blade anatomy, would there be any issues with thin kerf vs. regular kerf blades?

I would certainly be interested in the mod, but I don't know when I would be able to install it so I cannot promise timely feedback. How do I get one?

Regards, Steve

[dstenson]

Love it! I'd happily pay $30 for that upgrade to my saw.