SMT slides hard for cuts.

[mfisher2810]

I have a BT3000 that I had to replace the plastic slides on the SMT. I have had good success in aligning the base and the table to the blade. The writeups in the article section were very helpful. The problem I am having is finding a good way to measure how tight to tighten the eccentric screws that hold the table to the base to ensure play is taken out of the SMT, yet have the SMT slide easy for cuts. If I tighten the screws / nut to much the SMT won't slide, if I lossen them up so the SMT slides easy, there seems to be to much play. Any suggestions, other than keep trying.

On a side note, the article section was a great resource when I had to replace the shims. I replaced the shims a few years ago and have not had a problem since.

[LarryG]

Any suggestions, other than keep trying.

That's pretty much it. I always tell folks who are about to start this job to first stop by Home Depot and pick up a five gallon bucket of patience -- 'cause you'll need it.

Couple of things that may help:

As you've already discovered, the adjustment is HAIR TRIGGER between too loose and too tight. When you are getting close and need to snug things down just that little bit more, think in terms of simply applying pressure to the screw, as opposed to actually turning it.

You may discover than snugging down the miter fence knob will tighten up the works slightly, making the table harder to slide. This was always the case with my saw. Since you will theoretically never slide the table unless the fence is in place and tightened down, adjust it so that it slides best under those conditions. If the table wobbles around a little with the fence removed, that really doesn't matter.

Good luck!

[mfisher2810]

Thanks for the reply. I thought it is going to be a trail and error approuch. This is the first time I have had to do this adjustment to the smt. Had to replace a couple of the slides. So guess its back to the shop and try, try, again.

[Black wallnut]

With mine I've found that I can snug up the nuts to the point that they hold adjustment but not so tight as to prevent me turning them with a nut driver. I no longer bother to use a screwdriver on the screws; just a nut driver on the nuts. Trial and error is what works best to set the play to 'just right'. If you are not already doing so set paralellism with the rear eccentic closest to the blade and take up slack with the two away from the blade.