Making/Attaching an Extension Table

[JoeyGee]

I will soon be adding a router to my accessory table, so I would like to fill the space btw the saw blade table and the AT. I have a laminate sink cutout that I plan on laminating (1.5" thick) and cutting to fit. My question is, how do I attach it? Should I use T-Nuts in the back of the rail slots? If so what size? Does anyone have pics of how theirs are attached?

Eventually I would also like to add a box around my router, so that is also a consideration.

Joe

[eddy merckx]

You can also pick up an extra accessory table to fill the gap. They are frequently available in the member classified section for pretty cheap.

Eddy

[JoeyGee]

Thanks, Eddy. I hadn't thought about that. That would certainly be quicker and it would match better than my kitchen counter, too!

Now, to find someone who is going to part with an extra accessory table...

[JR]

If you're interested in building an embedded router table, you could consider the design I borrowed from member billstr. http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ghlight=router

It was a fun project, but almost as complicated as a household furniture project.

JR

[footprintsinconc]

that is a pretty interesting setup there. can you give some details and more pictures of how it is attached to the bt3 fence system and to the ts stand?

thanks

[movnup]

I'll be posting a complete write up w/ pictures hopefully tomorrow but I used a three point sytem per front and rear e.g. six pressure points - "L" brackets mounted underneath in center and outer part of table top with plastic knobs / 1/4 inch square head bolts on the inside of the rail and plywood blocks that rest on the frame of the saw. It was originally going to be a tilt top for changing bits (loosen the four knobs and let it rest underneath on a horizontal bar mounted to the saw chassis) but I purchased a top side adjustable router and made removable zero clearance inserts.

[DonHo]

This is my just completed extension table for the new 21829 saw ( I could have used the extension table for the old bt3100 but the rails are longer on the 21829 and I wanted to take advantage of the extra length. Very simple to build, the table is 2 pieces of 3/4 MDF glued together to make 1 1/2" thick table. Edged with redoak and finished both sides with 4 coats of oil based poly. The table is attached to the rails using aluminum angle pieces and T nuts. I'd say it probably only took 2 or 3 hours of actual "work" to complete ( but I did use the aluminum angle from the old table). I mounted my router switch on the back rail using T nuts also. I think you'll be happy you built the table, I know it's really been good for me in my small shop.

DonHo

Oh, and I'm sure you won't mistake my shop for Rod's :-)