Rear rail clamp on BT3000 fence

[Boomer_01]

Can anyone tell me how to adjust the depth of the rear clamp on the BT3K fence? The toe of the clamp on my fence hits at essentially the mid-line of the rail flange it is supposed to clamp to. It will engage enough to hold the fence steady but I have to double check to make certain it has engaged every time I set the fence.

Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks,
John

[Garasaki]

I don't have an answer for you, but amen to that!!!

I have the same problem....

[Black wallnut]

It could be possibly bent. Are you hooking the rear first then lowering the front onto the front rails?

[Boomer_01]

Walnut

It could be possibly bent. Are you hooking the rear first then lowering the front onto the front rails?

I dont think the clamp is bent, I have never dropped the fence and it has not been abused in any way. This has been an issue for a long time. But sincne I am bulding more projects than in the past and the projects are more complex, it is become more annoying.

Because of the distance between the clamp and the rail its not possible to hook the clamp under the flange and then seat the guides on the front of the fence to the front rails.

Based on looking at the problem for long periods and then carefully scratching my head....it seems to me that two things need to happen:
1. the clamp needs to sit 1/8" lower in the rail
2. the clamp needs to sit 3/8" closer to the flange on the rail

If these two adjustments were possible it should fit perfectly and clamp tightly to the back rail as it is intended.

Is there an adjustment that you know of to make the clamp sit lower in the rail?

I appreciate your help on this.


John

[Garasaki]

Wait let me ask this question:

When you say rear rail, do you mean the side that is across from you as you are cutting something??

That clamp is adjusted by the phillips head screw (colored black...on black...easy to miss) that is in the middle, towards the top, of it.

You may need to replace this screw with one that is slightly longer (if you tighten it and run out of thread). I actually just did that yesterday...so I can tell you the stock one is a 10-24 threaded machine screw that is 1" long. I bought a 1-1/4" one for 12 cents at the local small hardware store, that gives me some more adjustability.

[cgallery]

Is there an adjustment that you know of to make the clamp sit lower in the rail?

I appreciate your help on this.


John

Make certain that the rear clamping mechanism and the front Tee (the black parts) are pushed tightly against the aluminum extrusion. There should be no gaps.

[gwyneth]

Also, although this sounds dumb it's very easy to happen. Make sure the rail is not on upside down.

[Boomer_01]

Walnut

It could be possibly bent. Are you hooking the rear first then lowering the front onto the front rails?

I dont think the clamp is bent, I have never dropped the fence and it has not been abused in any way. This has been an issue for a long time. But sincne I am bulding more projects than in the past and the projects are more complex, it is become more annoying.

Because of the distance between the clamp and the rail its not possible to hook the clamp under the flange and then seat the guides on the front of the fence to the front rails.

Based on looking at the problem for long periods and then carefully scratching my head....it seems to me that two things need to happen:
1. the clamp needs to sit 1/8" lower in the rail
2. the clamp needs to sit 3/8" closer to the flange on the rail

If these two adjustments were possible it should fit perfectly and clamp tightly to the back rail as it is intended.

Is there an adjustment that you know of to make the clamp sit lower in the rail?

I appreciate your help on this.


John

[Black wallnut]

It is also possible that the "spring tab" is broken. (no pic available at this moment) Can you push in on the adjustment screw with the handle in the raised position? Sometimes the adjustment screw binds in the hole it goes through in the rear fence housing. I will try to find my pictures and post them her to help reference.

AFAIK there are very few things that could be wrong and all have been listed in this topic already except a factory defect.

[gwyneth]

By "rail upside down", I also meant oriented in the wrong direction. There's a picture somewhere of the correct profile. There's at least one wrong way for it to go on where it almost works.

[Mrs. Wallnut]

[leehljp]

Wow, Melissa, you sure are handy - with helping on that saw. Great picture!

[Black wallnut]

Wow, Melissa, you sure are handy - with helping on that saw. Great picture!

She sure is!

Now for the rest of the pics


Check and make sure you have the roller and dowel pin in place. It has been known to get lost.




Look closely for the spring tab, these do sometimes break off. First make sure the adjustment screw is not binding. If that's not a problem the spring tab should push the hook part of the rear clamper away from the fence. Push in to test. Movement is real small, without measuring I guess 1/16" to 3/32"



BTW to actually see the spring tab the rear clamper has to be removed. Use a roll pin punch as in the next picture and fully support the side of the (think Ryobi calls it the roller holder) anyway the end of the fence on a block of wood ~2" thick with a 3/16" hole to capture the roll pin.

[eezlock]

Bt fence problem?

Boomer, have you shifted your fence rails from one side of the saw to the other lately? If you did, might want to check the fence locking levers and make sure that they are locking down properly and holding the rails as they should. The rear rail may not be properly aligned with the top of the saw
and causing you a problem there....just a thought and hope it helps.
eezlock

[Boomer_01]

I cant thank you enough for your help on this. I will print out the thread and take it home and go through it step by step.

You folks are great!!

John