BT3 Measurements needed

[Russianwolf]

I can wait till I get home this evening if I need to, but does anyone know what the overall width of the SMT is, the width at the SMT lockers, and the width of the main saw table?

Trying to design my Frankensaw.

[cwsmith]

Mike,

I don't have my saw here, but did remember I had done a rough illustration to aid in the layout of a new shop. So, here are the dimensions that I've taken from the illustration. I'd prefer to double check these, but considering your immediate need they are hopefully close.

CWS

BT3100-1 Dimensions (w x d) taken from roughly scaled illustration

SMT Table Dim: 10-1/4 x 22
SMT Slide Asm: 6-1/4 x 36
SMT Fence Length: 18-1/4

Accessory Table Surface: 8-1/4 x 22-1/4
Main Table Surface: 7-1/2 x 22-3/8
Accessory Table overall dimensions: 8-1/4 x 23

Saw Body: 19-3/4 wide x 22-1/4 deep

[Workman]

I agree. It would be very helpful if someone could post the dimensions for the BT3 and its systems. I have looked for these in the 3100 manual, etc. while constructing my extended rails ultimate saw station - without success. I have measured (i.e. height of saw seems to be 13 7/8") but always question my accuracy (or the sophistication of my tools - is this a reason for the digital caliper, etc?) Also, it would be helpful if someone has gone through configurations of SMT, 2 SMTs on extended rails (one for saw and one for router), accessory table locations, etc. to see the options. Is there a way to get the rip fence to zero if the rails have both the accessory table and miter saw positioned left of the blade, etc.

[Russianwolf]

Thanks CWS, rough estimates are fine for the planning I'm doing right now. I'll get detailed later.

[cwsmith]

Workman,

I am only a beginner on this saw, but to set the rail and fence, I have a piece of oak (doesn't matter what it's made of, or the actual width), that is exactly 3-1/2 inches wide. I simply place it on the table, using it as a "guide" to space the distance between the blade and the fence. Then I move the front rail so that the fence marker ligns up on the 3-1/2 inch mark. (Or whatever the width of your "guide" will be.)

I then recheck my wood "guide" to ensure it is a good fit between the blade and the fence and then lock the fence in place.

If necessary, to align the rear rail I slide the accessory table to the very end of the front rail, lock down the accessory table. Release the fence, and then move the rear rail to the limit that is allowed by the accessory table. Lock down the rear fence.

Then reposition the accessory table as needed, remove your wood "guide" and your fence should be properly calibrated with the front rail to give you a quick referance of cutting width.

Sounds complicated, perhaps... but it only takes a minute or so.

However, I always double check my cut width with a steel rule.

I hope this helps,

CWS