herc-u-lift install on BT3100 help needed

[louis mason]

Hi

Can somebody with the experience and a little time to spare please post a step-by-step guide for attaching a herc-u-lift to a BT3100 saw? I'm looking at both my 3100 & a newly purchased herc-u-lift, who's instructions appear to be designed for a Ridgid model saw.

Does anybody have "things-to-avoid" advice for this installation? (i.e. wrong size/height holes to drill, etc.)

thanks... louis

[PJC]

I'll have to try and remember as it has been a while. I do remember drilling my holes to the exact measurements in the instructions for the Rigid saw. It was something like 2 1/2" up and 3/4" from the corner.

If I get a chance, I will look at mine tonight.

Pete

[gjat]

Louis,
There are tons of threads with picutures and discussions. Use the Search function using 'herc-u-lift'. I was going to give a link, but there were so many good threads.

[louis mason]

with pictures

Louis,
There are tons of threads with picutures and discussions. Use the Search function using 'herc-u-lift'. I was going to give a link, but there were so many good threads.

OK- i'll search, but give a link to the one you think has good step-by-step pictures.

thanks louis

[gjat]

OK- i'll search, but give a link to the one you think has good step-by-step pictures.

thanks louis

I think this is the best link. Read it and take a look at the pictures. It's easiest if you build it on a table without the saw being on the stand. The only real modifications is you probably want to move the front bar to the stand up a few inches. Other than that, everything is per the directions. You will have a few pieces left over. It is worth the hassle, I have one on my saw.

[cwsmith]

Louis,

Here is an excellent set of pictures of the Herc-U-Lift installation:

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ht=Herc-U-Lift

These were originally posted by "Gary" about a year ago. They are quite large and have terrific detail. I suggest you "right-click" on each one and save to your computer for reference.

Also, here are a few things I noted from looking at the many informative and experienced posts that I have read recently.

1. Use the 28 x 28 illustration and instructions from the Lift's owner's manual.

2. It's best to remove the saw from its stand and do all the mounting/assembly on the benchtop. (Don't lift the saw by it's rails!) It can be done on the floor with the saw mounted on its stand, but it's more difficult.

3. Drill the 2 holes in each leg, up 3-1/8 inches (as mentioned in the Lift instructions, for mounting the tube brackets. Use the pictures referenced above.

4. When assembling the Herc-U-Lift Plus, the tubes should be on top of the assembly. (A couple of guys assembled it upside down, apparently.)

5. The bolts holding the tubes to the legs must be kept loose as it details in the Lift's instructions.

6. The lower crossbrace will have to be removed from the BT's stand, for easier access to operate the lift.

7. The spring is probably necessary in order for the casters to be fully retracted, thus allowing the BT to sit firmly on its legs. (Its a weight thing I guess.)


So, these are the things that I have noted from other postings. I'm going to be installing the Herc-U-Lift Plus on my BT3100-1 this weekend. Hopefully between the great photos and many posts, I'll be able to get this done without any snags.

And to everyone who has contributed this invaluable information, THANKS!

I hope this helps,

CWS

[louis mason]

thanks

wow- you guys are a great help. thanks

back to my day job... darn!


louis

[mikel]

Cool I'm doing mine now...

...m

[jhart]

One other thing I found useful was to photpcopy the parts list page so to refer to the part as going thry the instructions and not having to flip back and forth during assembly.

[Joebar99]

Louis,

Here is an excellent set of pictures of the Herc-U-Lift installation:

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ht=Herc-U-Lift

These were originally posted by "Gary" about a year ago. They are quite large and have terrific detail. I suggest you "right-click" on each one and save to your computer for reference.

Also, here are a few things I noted from looking at the many informative and experienced posts that I have read recently.

1. Use the 28 x 28 illustration and instructions from the Lift's owner's manual.

2. It's best to remove the saw from its stand and do all the mounting/assembly on the benchtop. (Don't lift the saw by it's rails!) It can be done on the floor with the saw mounted on its stand, but it's more difficult.

3. Drill the 2 holes in each leg, up 3-1/8 inches (as mentioned in the Lift instructions, for mounting the tube brackets. Use the pictures referenced above.

4. When assembling the Herc-U-Lift Plus, the tubes should be on top of the assembly. (A couple of guys assembled it upside down, apparently.)

5. The bolts holding the tubes to the legs must be kept loose as it details in the Lift's instructions.

6. The lower crossbrace will have to be removed from the BT's stand, for easier access to operate the lift.

7. The spring is probably necessary in order for the casters to be fully retracted, thus allowing the BT to sit firmly on its legs. (Its a weight thing I guess.)


So, these are the things that I have noted from other postings. I'm going to be installing the Herc-U-Lift Plus on my BT3100-1 this weekend. Hopefully between the great photos and many posts, I'll be able to get this done without any snags.

And to everyone who has contributed this invaluable information, THANKS!

I hope this helps,

CWS

Thanks all for the helpful info! I just finished putting together a Herc-U-Lift for my saw tonight, and without the info on this board it would have been quite a bit trickier. It took me about 2 hours to assemble the frame and another 2 to get the holes drilled and everything mounted and adjusted. Not a hard setup, but definitely tedious. Go with the 28"x28" custom setup.

I installed it with the legs attached to the saw -- tricky but not impossible as long as your willing to get down and dirty and do a little contortionism (I marked the holes and drilled the legs from the inside->out).. Measuring 3-1/8" up from the bottom is a little tough (with the feet on) but once I got the first hole measured, not too bad. I found that the center line of the holes required to be drilled is about 1/16" above the top edge of the upper factory hole in the leg.

For the remaining 3 legs, I'd eyeball up 1/16" (maybe 3/32 nds -- doesn't have to be perfecto as long as they're all close to the same) from the upper hole, draw a level line on that mark, place the bracket in position lining up one hole on the center line (bisecting the circle) and then marking the two holes (only one line on one side of the leg is required as once the first hole is aligned with that line, the bracket automatically tells you where the other hole needs to be).



And again I stress what everyone else says -- don't tighten everything up until it's actually installed on the saw (especially the set screws -- they will need adjusting once mounted, so don't go crazy measuring and getting them perfectly centered during the first phase of the installation). The one thing you can tighten fully and not worry about are the casters.

Before finding one of these at a nearby Home Depot (well, about 30 miles from my house -- the 3 in my immediate area didn't have any) I was bidding on them at ebay. After installing, I definitely think this thing is worth the $75+ I almost paid at auction. Awesome addition to the saw for anyone with a small shop. WAAAAAAAAY above and beyond the Ryobi wheels that came in the accessory kit. It's a shame this kit has been discontinued as it's such an elegant, effective solution.