BT3100 vs a bandsaw

[summilux]

I’ve been using a Ryobi RA200 radial arm saw for rips and crosscuts for some time now in my home shop (router table, drill press, Ryobi jointer and planer). Now that the RA200 has been recalled and headed for the Ryobi junk yard, I am going to buy a sliding miter saw for crosscutting . I now need something for ripping. My budget dictates one of two choices: a new BT3100 ($399 Cdn at HD) or a used quality bandsaw with a good ripping fence.

I realize that if I go the bandsaw route, I am giving up ripping capacity for curve cutting and resaw. This trade-off seems reasonable because I usually get the shop to mill plywood to size anyway and most of my work doesn’t require big ripping capacity.

The only thing I worry about is the ability of a bandsaw to accurately rip things. I’ve never used one for ripping before and I am worried about blade drift. Admittedly, the radial arm saw was no precision machine for ripping, but will a properly set up and fenced bandsaw cut as accurately as a BT3100? Anyone with both a bandsaw and a BT3100 care to comment?

Thanks

Jonathan

[JR]

My bandsaw does not rip as accurately as my BT3100. Then again, I've never really tried to set it up for that level of performance.

The bandsaw advocates claim you can get that level of accuracy. It takes an adjustable fence and some fiddling to get there, though. I certainly can't fault the logic, as a bandsaw is an extremely versatile tool, particularly if coupled with a good SCMS.

You'd want to make sure to get good blades (the OEM one will not be good) and a good fence. The Grizzly G555 comes with a fence which is said to be good. Alternatively the Iturra one seems to be the standard for aftermarket fences, should you choose a different BS.

JR

[tropicaffair]

Where did you see that the Ryobi RA-200 has been recalled? I still use mine for croscuts and half laps.

Russ

[final_t]

My Two Cents

As JR mentions, it's more difficult to set up and maintain the bandsaw's settings for accurate ripping. That being said, I know a few people locally who do not have a TS at all and use their bandsaw for everything - very Euro-style. The Sears 12" custom Rikon is very recommened from them, but I don't like it because of the odd blade length. The Griz/Ridgid/HF models are all clones of each other so a used one of those should be good for a home shop.

I find mine a valuable peice of equipment, mostly for resawing and as a big-ass scroll saw, but it's a bear to keep aligned up (major key: proper tension + proper crowning of blade on wheels).

As for the TS, it appears that the BT3x is not being made/sold any more, so $399 CND seems to me to be really steep for a discontinued product.

PS: you're not giving up ripping cap for curves - you're getting rip cap, and more than a TS can give you.

[summilux]

Russ,

https://www.bobvila.com/OnTheLevel/R...call-2403.html

I checked the housing on mine and I didn't see any cracks or other evidence of impending failure. A search on the web says there have been only 5 failures involving lacerations but I don't want to be number 6, especially when rippping. Plus, I now have a justificable reason for buying a replacement tool ("Really dear, it's because of safety issue. You wouldn't want a husband with fewer fingers would you? And a 12" sliding saw is safer and more reliable that a 10" sliding saw. Really." )

Ryobi picks the saw up at your door and is giving a $75 refund. I paid $200 USD for mine in 1992, so I'm OK with that.

Jonathan

[Tequila]

How big are the pieces that you're usually ripping? For larger pieces I've found a circular saw with an edge guide to be more convenient than the table saw.

[wardprobst]

How big are the pieces that you're usually ripping? For larger pieces I've found a circular saw with an edge guide to be more convenient than the table saw.

Great discussion! I have a BT3000, Delta 14" bandsaw, and DeWalt 8 1/4" circular saw that I use with a Veritas edge guide. I find all three have their place so I'll just list the strengths of each and let you decide. In reverse order, the circle saw plus guide is great for sheet goods and rough ripping stuff that is hard to handle on the other saws- i.e. too big for me to handle safely (I work solo almost all the time). The bandsaw is very capable of accurate rips with the right blade and well tuned. The only issues are throat capacity and smoothness of the finished cut. I use a 3/4" Timberwolf blade that leaves fairly rough saw cuts but it is very fast and accurate. The BT with a good blade cuts extremely smoothly and accurately. I got it after the others and I just love the thing. I'll be sad to see it phased out but I'll keep mine going as long as possible. No answers but I hope this helps.
DP

[RayintheUK]

.... will a properly set up and fenced bandsaw cut as accurately as a BT3100? Anyone with both a bandsaw and a BT3100 care to comment?

The simple answer is "No," because it's an "apples and oranges" comparison. Both saws have their place, but choosing one over the other as the sole shop saw should be influenced by the type of projects it's required to deliver.

I should add that I use a Jet 20" Bandsaw (and I can get a large blade on that, tensioned beautifully, cutting straight), but that still leaves a much poorer and rougher finish than with the good old BT3000.

I can use stock right off the BT3K, but bandsawn stock requires additional cleaning up, no matter what the cut. HTH

Ray.

[Sawatzky]

If you need to rip a lot of boards, you cannot beat a table saw as that what it is designed to do. A band saw will do it, but as others hae mentioined it is not as convieient or easy. You will also lose a lot of rip capacity. If you need to do a lot of curve cuts and resawing, then a bandsaw is a great choice. If it were up to me, my first choice would be to try to buy both saws. If that is not an option, then my second choice would be to buy a table saw and use a jig saw or scroll saw for curve cuts. My last choice would be to buy the band saw and use a circular saw and a saw board for the rips that the bandsaw cannot do. A table saw can do so much and I bet you would wonder how you ever got along without one once you have one. Just my opinions.

[drumpriest]

Table saw for ripping boards. The band saw can rough out boards, but it'd be pretty difficult to get accurate useful rips out of one. Note: I'm not saying impossible, just difficult.

[LarryG]

PS: you're not giving up ripping cap for curves - you're getting rip cap, and more than a TS can give you.

Don't you mean resaw capacity? Rip capacity is a horizontal value.

[SARGE..g-47]

Have to agree with Ray that all things have their place. With a 24 T rip blade the TS is quicker and more accurate on stock it can handle. I can rip up to 2" 8/4 stock on my BT3000, but my 18" BS gets the call above 2" (or on occasion I go two houses up to Bill's who has a PM 5 HP). I end up with a lot of rough and S2 16/4 4" stock that would tax the Ryobi. It just won't handle the 4" without reversing the boards and making a second cut to get one rip on. And if you ever work with black locust, lignum vitae or some of the very dense exoctics it ain't got the "hoss power" to "get er done".

If you work with 4/4 or 6/4 mostly.. I would consider the TS first. As you progess up the thickness chain, the BS can be added and gets the call as with a larger BS that will get proper beam strenght matched to wider 3 tpi blades, you can rip almost as accurately with it even free-hand or a point fence instead of a regular one.

Regards...

[tropicaffair]

Jonathan,
Thanks for the recall link (I know this is slightly off-topic) for the RA-200. In reading the recall about the 8-1/2" radial arm saw I realized mine is a 10" - model RA-2500 and has no recalls. Thanks for the link, though!

Russ

[Ed62]

Johnathon,

I don't have the experience a lot of the others here have. But I do have the BT3K and a bandsaw. If I had to give up one of them, it would definitely be the BS. I wouldn't even consider being without a TS. There's no doubt, each has it's place.

Ed

[Veramacor]

Ive been doing my rips and crosscuts with a circular saw for years. It wasnt until recently that I got a Dewalt Scroll saw for curves. I'm getting in the habit for the real small stuff (< 2 ") crosscutting on the scroll saw. I'm starting to get decent at following strait lines.

But I'm pretty #&$ backwards and I'm backing into the BT3100. I was considering over the summer much as you were TS vs BS. Was eyeing the Grizzly BS and was ready to commit, until people convinced me that for straight lines, nothing is easier to make them than a TS.

My issue is pretty much only space now, and if the wife lets me take over another room in the basement, I will definitely add the BS to the shop(s). I have a spouse who actually believes cars belong in the garage so a garage shop is out!