LU87R010 (Freud 24 tooth rip blade) mini-review

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  • Rob3100
    Forum Newbie
    • Jun 2005
    • 77
    • New Braunfels, TX, USA.
    • BT3100

    LU87R010 (Freud 24 tooth rip blade) mini-review

    I've been ripping some Africian Mahogany recently for my end tables and coffee table project. I was using either the stock blade (just back from sharpening) and a 40 tooth Diablo combi blade I picked up at BORG as a backup. Some of the cuts on 4/4 were 50" and it was feeling a bit dicey at times with slow feed and general bogging. It almost felt like my blades were dull, but I know they were not.

    Knowing I had a underpowered saw I went searching for a new rip blade. After much searching and fussing and fretting I finally decided on the LU87R010 due to it being thin kerf. I thought about the LM74 and LM72, but they weren't thin kerf even though the LM72 looked like the ideal blade and with my recent experience with uncomfortable rips I wanted the slickest cut I could manage.

    The LU87R010 went on the saw today for a couple of Mahogany rips and and some rips in some BORG 3/4 Chinese Birch for a router table stand. All I can say is WOW. The feed was clean, consistent and FAST. I actually thought something was wrong and maybe I didn't raise the blade more than about 1/4" into the stock. The cuts also came out without even a hint of burn (which I had some of on the 50" Mahogany rips with the stock blade). It also did a wonderful job on the plywood with even cleaner cuts than the stock blade. By cleaner I mean not low, but 0 tearout front or back.

    In summary, if you are doing a lot of ripping with your BT3100 and feel like you a bogging a bit, take a serious look at the LU87R010. I don't think you'll be disappointed.

    I bought mine from Amazon, here is a link to the product: LU87R010
  • cgallery
    Veteran Member
    • Sep 2004
    • 4503
    • Milwaukee, WI
    • BT3K

    #2
    I agree, Freud makes great blades.

    I think the Diablo ("lower-end" Freud contractor stuff) 24 tooth rip blade cuts just about everything I've thrown at it about as well as the WWII blade. With one exception: The WWII does a better job cross-cutting real hard exotics. However, the Diablo 40-tooth combination DOES cut these EVERY BIT as well as the WWII blade.

    The key is, blades have to be sharp to cut well. Yes, the first time I used a WWII on my saw was impressive. However, the stock blade had become quite dull. Now that my WWII blade is off for sharpening, I'm pretty dang impressed w/ these Diablos.

    And a properly tuned saw is CRITICAL. I've used 3 and 5-HP Unisaws that don't cut nearly as effortlessly and cleanly as my little BT3K. The point of the big motor isn't to save on sharpening. ;-)
    Last edited by cgallery; 09-17-2006, 11:37 PM.

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    • drumpriest
      Veteran Member
      • Feb 2004
      • 3338
      • Pittsburgh, Pa, USA.
      • Powermatic PM 2000

      #3
      You nailed it, sharp is the key. The wwII is great because it can be sharpened repeatedly, and so long as you don't hit a nail or something you'll get the initial investment back from the blade over time. The Freud blades are probably only worth sharpening once or twice, but they do a great job while sharp.

      I have that 24T blade and pull it out for deep rips also, does a great job.
      Keith Z. Leonard
      Go Steelers!

      Comment

      • buddyroo
        Forum Newbie
        • Aug 2006
        • 90

        #4
        Not wanting to hijack the thread, but this seems relevant to the blade selection issue. How much does it cost to sharpen a blade like the WWII?

        Comment

        • cgallery
          Veteran Member
          • Sep 2004
          • 4503
          • Milwaukee, WI
          • BT3K

          #5
          Originally posted by buddyroo
          Not wanting to hijack the thread, but this seems relevant to the blade selection issue. How much does it cost to sharpen a blade like the WWII?
          I sent mine to Forrest. They have a price list that says $20 for 10" blades up to 40-teeth (I think 40 is the cut-off, more teeth is more $$$). BUT, that doesn't include replacing any damaged teeth or straightening the plate. That stuff is kinda a-la-carte.

          I also sent my original Ryobi 10" blade. I included a note asking them to contact me if sharpening both blades would exceed $50, not including shipping. I hope I'm being reasonable. I didn't want to include a blank check.

          While $20 to sharpen the Ryobi blade may be steep (when a new Diablo blade is $27 without waiting for a sale or anything), I'd rather keep stuff out of the landfill until it is completely used-up. And, maintaining stuff is easier to justify to the wife than buying new stuff. :-)

          Comment

          • Knottscott
            Veteran Member
            • Dec 2004
            • 3815
            • Rochester, NY.
            • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

            #6
            Originally posted by buddyroo
            Not wanting to hijack the thread, but this seems relevant to the blade selection issue. How much does it cost to sharpen a blade like the WWII?
            Depends on where you take it. For 40T, a reasonable range is ~ $12-$25. The Forrest blades can be sharpened anywhere that does blades, although few are considered as good a job as Forrest. They'll also sharpen other blades. Ridge Carbide also provides a sharpening service that's considered on par with Forrest and may be a bit cheaper. Also, Scott Whiting is said to be excellent and reasonable....unfortunately for me, sending the blade 2200 miles round trip is expensive, but his fee isn't bad...YMMV.
            Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

            Comment

            • SARGE..g-47

              #7
              I've been using a Freud 24 T ATB TK in some form for years, Rob. There is no substitute IMO, for a 24T for a rip cut. A 40 tooth or above does not have the gullet space to remove the large amount of waste as a 24T ripper. I use a stiffner on one side to reduce flex with the thinner kerf. The trade-off there is you will not get the full capacity of raising the blade as the stiffner will take away about 1/2" to 3/4" of blade hieght.

              For those that are convinced that the Forrest II cannot be touched on a cross-cut, you might look at the new Freud "Silver Ice". Charles Mac (acquaintance and Freud rep) showed it to me as they were introducing it at the IWF show in Atlanta a few weeks back. It's there answer to the F II.

              BTW.. the Freuds can be sharpened more than twice. Local or they can do it at their main facility in Greensboro, N.C. I drive by their dumpster out back occasionally on Sunday's to see what they might have thrown out by accident! ha.. ha...

              Regards...

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