I recently purchased this: Freud LU82M010 10", 60-Tooth Industrial Crosscut/Rip Blade for my miter saw, but I was thinking is it too good for that? and should I swap it with the chinese blade on my BT 3100?
BT3100 blade
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Be careful, there is a Freud blade that is designed for miter saws that has a kerf that is thinner than the riving knife.
I don't think the one you have is it and I would wear out your chinese blade first.Brian
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The LM82 is a 1/8" full kerf blade...1/32" thicker than the stock blade. It should crosscut a bit cleaner than the stock blade, but it won't rip as efficiently. Since you've got it, you can always give it try and see what you think.Originally posted by bigsteel15Be careful, there is a Freud blade that is designed for miter saws that has a kerf that is thinner than the riving knife.
I don't think the one you have is it and I would wear out your chinese blade first.
The LM82 is one of the few Freud blades that I was just a bit disappointed in on my table saws....not because it didn't cut well, but because it didn't cut better than other blades I have that are more versatile...namely the Freud LU88 and Forrest WWII, and even the LU86 cuts nearly as cleanly but rips much more efficiently. Being a full kerf blade with a high tooth count, it'll likely bog down a bit on rip cuts with your saw. YMMV.
http://www.epinions.com/content_232982285956Last edited by Knottscott; 07-10-2006, 07:58 AM.Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

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What are you planning to cut?
Miter saw cannot rip no matter the blade. If you plan to cut construction lumber - chinese blade will do fine. If you plan to cut fine furniture parts - get a dedicated crosscut blade with a minimum of 80 teeth and shaped for super-clean crosscutting teeth geometry. The rip/crosscut blade you have sounds like a universal type - wrong fit for the miter saw. It is a better fit for an all-around use on a table saw. You will still need a dedicated rip blade for bulk ripping.Alex VComment
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I only bought it cause the stock blade on my Craftsman Miter saw was certainly a cheap one.. the end of a cross cut board was almost wavey about 1/10 as smooth as my BT3100 so I saw this blade on amazonn for $28 and figured I couldn't go wrong.
I am suprised to find there is such a variance in saw blades. So much to learn for just a weekend hobby.Comment
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That's a really good price. Hard to go wrong for $28. Even harder to find something better for the price. The science of saw blades is pretty complex...I think I'm just starting to scratch the surface and I've gone at it pretty aggressively in the past couple of years.Originally posted by Jim PadgettI only bought it cause the stock blade on my Craftsman Miter saw was certainly a cheap one.. the end of a cross cut board was almost wavey about 1/10 as smooth as my BT3100 so I saw this blade on amazonn for $28 and figured I couldn't go wrong.
I am suprised to find there is such a variance in saw blades. So much to learn for just a weekend hobby.
I'm not a huge fan of Oldham blades, but their website has some nice pics and descriptions:
http://oldham-usa.com/Products/SawMa...components.htmHappiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

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I am using a Freud 24 tooth blade right now for ripping. It will crosscut but not as cleanly as a 40-60 or 80 tooth blade.
Dave in NCStress is when you wake up screaming and then you realize you haven't fallen asleep yet.Comment
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