Router for table recomendatations

[jhelfer]

I am helping a friend with a project, and I need to put together the router table (I am going to make my own fence and accessoories from an article in a WW mag).

For several technical and operational reasons, I don't really want to use my B&D plunge router in this table. So, I'm looking for any recomendations for routers that bolt up nicely to the BT3100's table, are easy to adjust and easy on the wallet.

How's the stock Ryobi fixed that I find at my local BORG, for instance?

[bigsteel15]

How's the stock Ryobi fixed that I find at my local BORG, for instance?

I have this one and my only complaint, besides 1/4" collet, is that when you tighten the clamp after you make adjustments it moves the bit slightly.
I believe this is a problem with a lot of FB routers though.
The Craftsman by Ryobi may be better.

[ssmith1627]

My first back in Jan or so was the Ryobi 1.5 HP router......costs about $60. It was fine at first but just stopped working after about a month. I returned it and bought a 694VK Porter Cable router with two bases.

I think from reading this board, my biggest fear was the 1/4" shanks that fit the Ryobi router above. Just not much material holding together something spinning at thousands of RPM. I feel a lot better now using a Holbren 1/2" shank set.

Just 2 cents from a newbie.......

Steve

[John Hunter]

Check your local Lowes for a Freud 3 1/4 HP FT2200 on clearance. Most have been marked down to $129 but the manager at my local store cleared them out for $75! I grabbed one and love it.

[vaking]

For a dedicated use in a table you want something big (around 3HP) with variable speed and 1/2" collet. Freud mentioned earlier and Hitachi M12V are the most common models that fit that bill. Then come some "nice to have" features but they all come at extra cost. Nice to have features like ability to change bits and adjust bit height from above the table. If you need the router not dedicated to the table but to use by hand as well - then 3HP is too big and you are looking for a multi-base kit around 2HP. Ability to adjust bit height from above the table for one of the bases exists for some models too.

[drumpriest]

Dedicated under the table router, still some questions. I would recommend a 3+ hp, like the freud that is fairly cheap, or the M12, unless you are wanting a lift for very accurate fine above table adjustment. The PC is a lovely tool if you can afford one.

The 2 1/4 hp models are nice also, fit the jess'em lift. Bosch and PC anyway. I have the Bosch, love it. It has above table adjustment as well, but honestly the lift is nicer.

[Roger on the Rock]

Is there a relatively easy way to fit the PC 694 into the BT-3100 table? From what I can glean from the forum, the accessory table works OK for a router, but can be easily out-grown. I'm just wondering whether or not to invest in getting the accessory table operational or go straight for a good router table.

Opinions would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[LarryG]

Is there a relatively easy way to fit the PC 694 into the BT-3100 table?

If you have the Ryobi router mounting plate, it's as easy as drilling four holes in the plate to match the pattern on the P-C's base casting. I did this with my Makita router. Using the plastic subbase from the router as a template, it's about a 20 minute job.

If you don't have the mounting plate, you can make your own out of plywood (3/8" minimum, 1/2" better) or plastic sheet (3/8" polycarbonate or acrylic). This will take a little longer, obviously, but still not too bad.

IMO your characterization of the accessory table is about right. It's okay, but it has its shortcomings. A lot of guys use it only until they can buy or build a better table (sometimes using the BT accessory table to build the better one). OTOH, if you have a spare router, the accessory table can make an excellent backup to your primary table. I have always kept one of my routers in mine, usually with a 1/4" roundover bit chucked up.

Bottom line, I'd say it's well worth the effort to get the P-C mounted. The accessory table isn't ideal but its far better than nothing, and indeed is all some woodworkers have or need.

[vaking]

There is a well known rule - you need to have a workbench to build a good workbench. The same goes for the router table. If you have never used a router table - the first table you build you will most likely outgrow fast. You need to start using router table to understand what features are important to you. Accessory table is a great way to start and try out routing in a table. With proper fence it is not worse than any table you can buy in store for, say $100 for a table alone. When you decide that you need better you will most likely either spend few hundred dollars for a high end table or make your own putting few hundred dollars in hardware like router lift and solid top. Just don't make a mistake of thinking that router fence that comes with Ryobi kit is acceptable.

[dwolsten]

I just drilled my mounting plate for my P-C 890 router this weekend, and it's just like you said. Use the mounting plate and drill three holes and then countersink them. It helps if you center it as accurately as you can, so you can use the included zero-clearance inserts.

The Ryobi router fence is indeed rather poor. I plan to build this fence from WOOD magazine:
http://www.woodstore.net/rofe.html

Someone else on here build one of these and has a post about it.

If you haven't used a router table before, be very careful. It's not like a table saw. I was totally new to mine this weekend, and while working on a small piece managed to stick my finger into the bit. Luckily, I just got a small cut, but I've read it could be much worse.

[John Hunter]

Is there a relatively easy way to fit the PC 694 into the BT-3100 table? From what I can glean from the forum, the accessory table works OK for a router, but can be easily out-grown. I'm just wondering whether or not to invest in getting the accessory table operational or go straight for a good router table.

Opinions would be appreciated.

Thanks.

I used the built in Ryobi router setup for over a year before building my router table. I had a Ryobi fixed base router 1/4" collet with a Harbor Freight speed control. Worked great but when I started building raised panels I went to a 1/2" collet 2 1/2 HP router and soon decided to build the table. I think your needs will dictate what you go with.

[Roger on the Rock]

Thanks folks;

I think I'll try the setup in the accessory table. If anyone has any detailed pics of their setup, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks & cheers,

Roger

[jhelfer]

I ended up with the Bosch 1617 on the router table extension. I confirmed in the first few minutes the common knowledge that the supplied fence was insufficient. I am making the router table fence and accessories featured in Wood magazine last year or so.