3100 Table top question

[Ishmel]

My saw top is leaving gray streaks on the lumber that I cut with it. I tried cleaning the top with mineral spirits, and that worked for a day or two, but now I'm getting the streaks on my lumber again. It almost looks like grafite dust. They sand off very easily, so I haven't gotten too excited about it, but it is starting to get annoying. Has anyone had this problem? Any suggetions?

Thanks!

d

[venkatbo]

Could it be Aluminum Oxide ? if so, why would it forming on the table-top :?)
/venkat

[Ishmel]

Good questions, both. Anyone know?

[BearPipes-1]

I much prefer paste wax on my wood than Al2O3, so when mine does this, that's my reminder to break out the Johnson's.

[RodKirby]

I thought the 3100 was powder coated - doesn't sound like something that should be sanded.

[TheRic]

I thought the 3100 was powder coated - doesn't sound like something that should be sanded.

Think he was talking about sanding off the wood.

[Wood_workur]

wehere are you keeping your saw- and what is the climate like?

[RodKirby]

Think he was talking about sanding off the wood.

DUH! wake up Kirby! Thank you

[gmack5]

Welcome, Ishmel

Welcome to the "family".

There are some things in this post that will help you get more out of your New Saw and less streaks on your Wood.

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Table Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the one before it, so you MUST keep them in sequence.

Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.

An accurate Carpenter's Framing Square is almost a myth!

A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more.

I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30-60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. If you get a 45 degree triangle that is 10", or more, then notch out the right angle corner so that you have about 8" exposed as a straight edge so you don't contact the teeth of your Saw Blade.
That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate. When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

You might also want to check out the "FAQ" in a "sticky" at the beginning of the Getting Started Forum:

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=19968

It'll answer a lot of your questions.

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes.

The reason is simple enough, most of them contain Silicones that will make your projects difficult to finish.
Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will cause you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.

If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax (parafin) for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Do NOT use "oils" as they will get sticky and attract Saw Dust and "gum up" the mechanisms under the table top.

Use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/index.php?page=articles

The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site).

One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea.

One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Another "problem" that I've solved is as follows:
Problem: The Miter Fence does not move smoothly when making an Angular Adjustment or when installing/uninstalling the Miter Fence.
There is a Grove on the bottom of the SMT that the Head of a 5/16-18 Machine Screw rides in, it's the "Clamp" Screw that you're using when you tighten the Knob to lock the Miter Fence in place.
Uninstall the Miter Fence and rub Candle Wax (Parafin) on the Hexagonal Faces of the 5/16-18 Clamping Hex Head Machine Screw, coat it liberally, so that the Parafin will be spread over the Working Surfaces that the Bolt Head rides in. You may also want to coat the Sides of the Slot that the Clamp Screw passes thru.
This should make the Miter Fence move much smoother thru it's range of motion, as well as make it much easier to install/uninstall.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[eeeehaw]

Gray streaks from table on wood

I experience this same problem. Sanding out softer woods is typically not a problem IF they're not already finish-ready, as the sanding goes quickly. However, I deal with eastern rock maple frequently, which is much more time-consuming to sand due to its hardness...and these gray streaks are very irritating, doubling my sanding time on planed stock. I don't wax the table anymore as I found that the recommended Johnson's paste wax interferes with many of the stains that I use, causing uneven penetration (read: stripes), again requiring extra sanding time.

I can't figure out why this is happening, as the table is supposedly powder-coated, but examining the wear leads me to believe that the powder paint must be coming off. Anyone out there with ideas on how to solve this problem?

Perhaps I've quickly outgrown this 3100; I long for a STANDARD miter T slot badly (for the many table saw accessories made for that, esp dual down/side featherboards; the optional miter slot table has square bottom 3/4in wide slots), in addition to a cast iron table (those don't leave gray streaks). This saw creeps around my shop floor without the sandbags I had to drape on it, when sawing hard or heavy stock. At first I thought the router table would be great to save shop space, but jury-rigging up Rube Goldberg featherboards for that forced me to buy a separate router table (some great ones out now).

With all that said, this saw is a great entry-level table saw for beginners and perhaps experts with time on their hands to fiddle with it...the price can't be beat for what you get, and altho the SMT doesn't measure up to the precision of the pro miter guides that cost as much as the entire 3100 it does a respectable job IMO.

[Ishmel]

I keep the saw in my unheated garage in central minnesota, read into that what you will. I've had it for a little less than a year, and am very satisfied with the quality of cuts and accuracy of the fence. But I have not waxed the top for the very reason EE said, I am worried about wax messing up my finishes. I use a lot of plywood (something else i hope to change once I find a decent saw mill) and the veneers are so thin, I don't want to do too much excess sanding. I guess I'll try waxing it, maybe with a parafin wax if you all think it will help.

[mdutch]

I keep the saw in my unheated garage in central minnesota, read into that what you will. I've had it for a little less than a year, and am very satisfied with the quality of cuts and accuracy of the fence. But I have not waxed the top for the very reason EE said, I am worried about wax messing up my finishes. I use a lot of plywood (something else i hope to change once I find a decent saw mill) and the veneers are so thin, I don't want to do too much excess sanding. I guess I'll try waxing it, maybe with a parafin wax if you all think it will help.

A couple light coats of Johnson's paste-wax, buffing with a clean rag in-between. Works like a charm.

You're most likely getting oxidation from the aluminum (which is a VERY active metal). The wax will "seal" the metal like oil-curing a cast-iron fry pan.

[BearPipes-1]

...and I probably don't need to add this, but never use a wax containing silicone, which will fish-eye your finish.

I haven't had any trouble with paste wax and finishing; I do have a can of turpentine for paste wax cleanup, but haven't needed it for that yet.

[JimD]

I have never noticed any evidence of wax from the tablesaw on my final project and I wax every time I see grey or black streaks from the table (hopefully before, actually). Normal sanding before finishing seems to remove any that gets on the wood. You need to apply the Johnson's the same as you would wax a car. Put it on, let it dry, buff off the excess. If you apply that way, my experience is that it will prevent the aluminum rub marks and not get on the project.

Jim