Just curious how others are attaching feather boards and such to their saws. Looking for ideas and safe options. Pictures would be great.
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If you have Bt3100 - the manual describes how to make a featherboard for this saw and suggests this to be your first project.Alex V -
I have the dual miter slot table to the left of the blade and use a piece of UHMV as an attachpoint for a featherboard. It doesn't work for all cuts and I'm in the process of coming up with a better idea.
Another option is to build a tall aux fence that attaches to the rip fence and then attach a featherboard to the tall fence that holds stock flat on teh saw table.Comment
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It's dependant on where I'm using the feather board. I have the miter slot table and use it mostly. I also use the design in the manual when neccessary A down pressure board I usually clamp to the fence. Which side pressure board is to be used depends on the width of the board being cut. If the miter slots are available I use them just because of the setup speed.A man without a shillelagh, is a man without an expidient.Comment
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I have so far used the design from the manual. I dont have any miter slots so cant comment on that aspect. For vertical hold pressure I have made both wood and plastic cutting board featherboards and clamp to the rip fence. I am considering making a tall aux fence and may add a T track so that would provide yet another method.
JonJon
Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
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We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them
techzibits.comComment
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I have one that fits a miter slot (I have the accessory miter slot installed) I have another that I clamp onto my sacrificial fence.Opinions are like gas;
I don't mind hearing it, but keep it to yourself if it stinks.
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I have a tall fence attachment I made a while ago that slips over the rip fence. I put slots in the face for attaching things like featherboards. I also lock the SMT and put one on the SMT using the existing slot in the SMT.David
The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.Comment
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I finally stopped attaching a featherboard to my SMT. I tend to apply a little too much pressure with my featherboards, so I was concerned that I might be causing my SMT to slide a little out of adjustment.
My solution isn't so great, but it's working. I attach a featherboard holder to my acc. table which is to the left of my SMT. It's quite a ways away, but it's pretty solid, and adjustment is fairly quick. Still pondering something better though.
Regards,
TomComment
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I do not have the miter slot and it sounds like those that don't have struggled with a good way to do this.
Also I have a BT3000 and I do not see a 3100 manual posted anywhere. Could someone share the part on the feather board?
Many thanks for the feedback.Comment
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Mounting Board
I made a feather board holder from plywood that attatches in the front with tnut and rear with toilet bolt. It sets approx. 3/4" above the table so that the feather boards I made could be attatched above the ply. or below. A t-track was added on the rear rail of the saw in order to secure the rear.
Actually I use it alot more with the router table side. Refer to pix.
JoelAttached FilesComment
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Joel,
That is a pretty slick idea!BillComment
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feather boards
If you have the dual miter slots for your saw....get the benchdog plasticOriginally posted by jcrenick
adjustable featherboards .....enjoy them and you'll never regret it.
eezlockComment
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You must have a direct line to Jeff's T-nuts, eh?Originally posted by joboleBrian
Welcome to the school of life
Where corporal punishment is alive and well.Comment
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T-nuts are a bts best friend. Ive got an assortment of them all, the only ones I cant recommend are the small square head ones for the back of the rear rail. The best solution I came to was adding a t-track above the slot back there, then using regular 5/16 toilet bolts you can really crank everything down tight.Attached FilesComment
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