New BT3100 owner looking for good starter threads

[jonathanb3478]

Just got my 3100 from HD as soon as they opened this morning (got the box home in my '00 Mustang GT, but that is another story of pain and uncomfortableness, lol).

I am looking to cut panels for speaker enclosures (need a good amount of 30-deg edge cuts). I am here looking for good starter threads. I would like to use the saw the first time to build some accessories (feed tables to begin with) that will help me get the most out of this new purchase.

I did not locate any real starter threads in my perusal/search of this forum. Thanks for the help!

[Warren]

The best place I know is the articles section of the forum. Lots of information for modification, jigs, tables, etc.

Also, try the search function. "Outfeed," and "wide table" should get you started.

[gmack5]

Welcome to the "Family"

Welcome johnathon, welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Table Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the one before it, so you MUST keep them in sequence.

Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.

An accurate Carpenter's Framing Square is almost a myth!

A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more.

I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square.

The 30-60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. If you get a 45 degree triangle that is 10", or more, then notch out the right angle corner so that you have about 8" exposed as a straight edge so you don't contact the teeth of your Saw Blade.

That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate. When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

You might also want to check out the "FAQ" in a "sticky" at the beginning of the Getting Started Forum:
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=19968
It'll answer a lot of your questions.

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER EVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes.
The reason is simple enough, most of them contain Silicones that will make your projects difficult to finish.

Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will cause you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.

If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax (parafin) for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Do NOT use "oils" as they will get sticky and attract Saw Dust and "gum up" the mechanisms under the table top.

Use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/index.php?page=articles

The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site).

One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea.

One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Another "problem" that I've solved is as follows:

Problem: The Miter Fence does not move smoothly when making an Angular Adjustment or when installing/uninstalling the Miter Fence.
There is a Grove on the bottom of the SMT that the Head of a 5/16-18 Machine Screw rides in, it's the "Clamp" Screw that you're using when you tighten the Knob to lock the Miter Fence in place.
Uninstall the Miter Fence and rub Candle Wax (Parafin) on the Hexagonal Faces of the 5/16-18 Clamping Hex Head Machine Screw, coat it liberally, so that the Parafin will be spread over the Working Surfaces that the Bolt Head rides in. You may also want to coat the Sides of the Slot that the Clamp Screw passes thru.
This should make the Miter Fence move much smoother thru it's range of motion, as well as make it much easier to install/uninstall.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[Pappy]

Welcome to the Asylum, Johnathan!