Mock-up for new mobile base

[gad5264]

Gentlemen,
Last night I began mocking up the top for my new BT3 mobile base configuration that I plan to build. The way I have it laid out is how I think I would like it to be but would like some opinions from some of the experts on here who currently have made their own mobile bases.

On the left side I am going to keep my older 1/4" Ryobi router mounted in the accessory table because I have alot of bits for it. Next to the acc table I have the SMT but am going to make a drop in insert for when the SMT is not in use. Next to that is the left miter track, saw bed and right miter track. The main part of this expansion is for the Rockler router table that I have been hoarding for a while and finally am deciding to use it. I have to cut it down about 2" to fit between the rails and then plan to edge it with oak.

From looking at the pictures can any of you see any potential problems that I might encounter with the layout?




As you can see in the background there is a BRAND NEW BT3 still in the box waiting to patiently to be installed on the new mobile base.

[JimD]

Layout looks fine if that is what works for you. I have nothing beyond my SMT on the left side of the saw. When making a bevel cut it would be nice to have something more over there, however. I am just tight on width in my shop (I have 20 foot length but only about 10 feet width). I have a router table setup in my accessory table as you apparently plan but I do not use it much now that I have a dedicated router table. Since you already have the router table top, I see no reason not to use it for the accessory table top. A separate fence adds flexibility, mine is made of plywood with a slot for adjustment and is fastened in place by t-nuts embedded in the bottom of the accessory table. Simple, cheap, works. I preferred to stand at the end of my tablesaw rather than the side close to where you stand to use the saw when using the router table. My fence is thus installed roughly parallel to the rip fence of the BT3100.

Being able to flip the saw up for cleaning is really nice. I recommend you incorporate that in your new base.

Jim

[Tom Miller]

Looks good from here. That's pretty much the arrangement I have, except that I don't have any miter slots.

I assume you're adding extension rails? Or are you putting the two saws together?

Regards,
Tom

[gad5264]

[/QUOTE]Being able to flip the saw up for cleaning is really nice. I recommend you incorporate that in your new base.

Jim[/QUOTE]

Jim,
I had considered the flip top but have since changed my mind and will add a 2" deep drawer directly below the saw. THis way I will not have to unbolt the rails to flip it up for cleaning.

[gad5264]

Looks good from here. That's pretty much the arrangement I have, except that I don't have any miter slots.

I assume you're adding extension rails? Or are you putting the two saws together?

Regards,
Tom

Yes, I have been able to get a second set for the new BT in the box.

[poolhound]

I am not sure if its just my eyes, but how are you supporting the end of that extension router table? It looks like its floating and only supported by a few inches of the rails?

Jon

[vaking]

My saw flips around the hinges mounted at the back of the top surface. As a result I can flip the saw and all rails intact - no unbolting. It is a little heavy but nothing I cannot handle. I just replaced belts on BT and it was done with the flip without even removing the top for the router table. And I too have wide table kit and a shallow drawer under the saw for dust collection - one does not preclude the other.

[Popeye]

That's the same basic setup I've been using for almost three years sans the big router table. I've got a second accessory table with a router mount to the right. I end up using the router in the accessory table on the left the most because it's on the end. Set up works great for me. Pat

[bigsteel15]

My saw flips around the hinges mounted at the back of the top surface. As a result I can flip the saw and all rails intact - no unbolting. It is a little heavy but nothing I cannot handle. I just replaced belts on BT and it was done with the flip without even removing the top for the router table. And I too have wide table kit and a shallow drawer under the saw for dust collection - one does not preclude the other.

I'm having troubles visualizing were your pivot point is.
Do you have a picture you can post?
I'm building my cabinet now and like how that sounds.

[gad5264]

I am not sure if its just my eyes, but how are you supporting the end of that extension router table? It looks like its floating and only supported by a few inches of the rails?

Jon

Jon,
I am just in the mock-up stage. I am building a complete new base and yes the router table tot he right will be supported. I was basically mocking it up to make wure of some dimentions and appearances.

[vaking]

Brian,
I am sorry I described it poorly. Please take a look at pictures I posted earlier in this thread:http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ht=mobile+base
There is one picture in page 2 of that thread and more on page 3. One of the later pictures shows the actual hinge. The better description is that mobile base consists of a single low cabinet stretching entire length of the saw. The cabinet itself is made of 3/4" MDF but on top of it there is a sheet of 3/4" birch ply mounted on hinges on the back. The saw stands on that sheet, extended rails are mounted to it too on support brackets. Even router table is a separate unit that stands on that sheet placed in the cutout in the table surface.

[drumpriest]

How are you planning to make the cuts on the router table to get it to fit? I was thinking of doing this with the offset table, so that the router fence runs from front of bt to back.

The reason I was thinking this directions is that my bt buts up against my DC, and if I need to route a longer piece, I'd have to move the saw.

[gad5264]

[QUOTE=drumpriest]How are you planning to make the cuts on the router table to get it to fit? I was thinking of doing this with the offset table, so that the router fence runs from front of bt to back.

drumpriest, I am going to use a circular saw and edge guide to rip the router table to the width I need it to edge band it in oak. I thought about cutting it the other direction to run from front to back but the shear size of the Rockler table is too much to waste. I have the room in my garage so I am going to use all of the area that I can without wasting it.

Hope that answers your question.

[JimD]

I have suction with my DC both to the sawdust port on the BT3100 and also up under where the saw sits. I thus do not really need to tip the saw up to remove a buildup of sawdust. I tilt it up to lube it and clear off the dust that clings to the moving parts of the BT3100. I think you can do this more throughly by tilting up. My rails clamp in place with knobs so all I have to do to tilt up is to loosen some knobs and slide the rails to the left off the flat steel pieces that go inside the bottom slots of the rails to clamp them to the base. With that done, I can tilt up. Only takes a minute or two.

Jim

Jim