another new user question

[bobo]

I just purchased a 3100 and put it together. I have been looking around on the site for information on using this thing, and there is an abundance of information. I did try searching specifically on initial setup and adjustments, but I can't seem to find specifically where to align the blade, and the guard, a few other things. Like I'd like to set up a non-Ryobi router on it, but I have no idea how to do it. Someone had mentioned looking at the FAQ, but the only FAQ I can find is for forum software. I looked at the articles, but didn't find this either. I think I need to do some adjusting because I tried ripping a 1x6 of milled locust and it was jamming. Mind you, this is locust, some really hard stuff, but still, it seemed off. Can you burn out a motor on these saws very easily? I can't tell if the riving knife is set up well, it seems near the top of the blade it's a bit off one side, and the bottom it's a bit off the other. I tried moving the shims but it didn't seem to help, I tried really hard to make sure the fence was set well, maybe it's because of the original milling of the wood, I don't really know. I'm certainly pretty new to this (though not to wood). I'd appreciate any help pointing me where to look, or specific advice. Thanks.
(Doh! I just was surfing around more and found the big FAQ file in the "getting started" section. Hopefully I can find at least some of this stuff in there.)

[jwaterdawg]

Welcome to the group.

[Pappy]

Welcome to the Asylum, BoBo! After you read the FAQ section, come back with the questions you still have.

[lcm1947]

Welcome to the forum and congrats on your wise purchase of this fine TS. You will enjoy it a lot I know. Yes, many many questions but keep reading and asking and you will learn it all. It does take some time though.

[gmack5]

Welcome Aboard!!

Welcome Bobo, welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Table Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual.

Each set up proceedure builds on the one before it, so you MUST keep them in sequence.

Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

You might also want to check out the "FAQ" in a "sticky" at the beginning of the Getting Started Forum:
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=19968
It'll answer a lot of your questions.

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes.
The reason is simple enough, most of them contain Silicones that will make your projects difficult to finish.
Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will cause you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.

If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax (parafin) for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Do NOT use "oils" as they will get sticky and attract Saw Dust and "gum up" the mechanisms under the table top.

Use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.
Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/index.php?page=articles

The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site).

One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea.

One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.

An accurate Carpenter's Framing Square is almost a myth! A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more.

I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30-60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner.

That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate. When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[Griz]

gmack5 The first link you posted is a dead link... just an FYI

Griz

[mschrank]

Like I'd like to set up a non-Ryobi router on it, but I have no idea how to do it.
You can use the Ryobi router mounting kit and drill to fit your router.
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=19240
Otherwise I think Loring's FAQ gives some tips on making your own mounting plate. If you go this route, make sure you have a way to clamp the accessory table to both rails (a clamp for this is included in the accessory kit)

Can you burn out a motor on these saws very easily?
I wouldn't consider it easy, but it happens. I think the belts will usually go before the motor.

I can't tell if the riving knife is set up well, it seems near the top of the blade it's a bit off one side, and the bottom it's a bit off the other. I tried moving the shims but it didn't seem to help.
Sometimes you have to "persuade" the riving knife into alignment. And by "persuade," I mean "bend gently."

I tried really hard to make sure the fence was set well.
This method is the one I find the easiest and most accurate. As you've probably figured out, you don't align the blade on this saw. You align everything else to the blade. A lot of folks are initially concerned if the grooves in their table top don't align with the blade and fence...it's OK.

10 characters

[gmack5]

gmack5 The first link you posted is a dead link... just an FYI Griz

It's fixed, Griz.
Thanks for the "heads up".

[bobo]

Thanks very much to you all for your comments. I've been reading the big FAQ I finally found, it has reams of information, and these replies have been great, too. What a great site!