BT3100 Front Rail

[Papa]

Hi, Guys,

I've been lurking around the forum as "Leadbell" for several years. Got confused with the change of software and had to start all over with a new moniker.

But to the point, I installed a BT3100 rail system on my old Craftsman saw for my son to use. I used BT3000 short extensions to make the rails longer. My problem is that the ends on the front rail pieces don't quite match, and the miter gauge won't slide over the joint. I know some on the forum have dealt with this problem before. I'd appreciate recommendations on how to smooth the transition.

As an alternative, does anyone have a piece of BT3100 front rail about 12" or more long that you would sell me?

Thanks for the help.

Warren

[Papa]

BT33100 Rails (again)

After 99 hits without a recommendation, I decided to revert to my old standby--brute force. Using a sharp file and custom sanding blocks with fine emory cloth stuck on with double-sided tape, I gently feathered away the small shoulders that were causing the problem. After a couple of hours hand work and a little paste wax, the rip fence glides over the joint like it was one piece.

Thanks to everyone for considering my problem.

Warren Bell

[JR]

Warren, sorry you didn't get any replies to your query. With the verbose group around here that's a rarity, indeed!

It sounds like you got it figured out, though. I've got a BT3000, so if I ever have to use the black rails I'll now be brave enough to take a file to them.

Thanks for the tip.

JR

[mschrank]

Yeah, sorry I missed your post the first time around.

I ran into the same problem when I attached a set of used rails to my saw. I solved it pretty much the same as you, but used my Dremel tool to speed it up a bit.

I'm hoping you used the wax sparingly...wax on the rails is usually a no-no as it can prevent the rip fence from locking down. See page 10 of Loring's FAQ;s for more info.