aftermarket outfeed tables

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  • wreckwriter
    Established Member
    • Mar 2006
    • 449
    • South Florida
    • BT3100-1

    aftermarket outfeed tables

    If a guy wanted to buy, rather than build, an outfeed table for the 3100, are there any good option other than the highly priced Ryobi table? Has any tried the Rocklers table ( http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5719 ) with a 3100? I'm looking for something that will fit and go with as little screwing around as possible.

    I realize that building one myself is the best option but I have so many projects already at the halfway point and so little time to work on them that I really need to get some of them finished rather than spend time building accessories right now....
    http://www.wreckwriter.com/
  • just4funsies
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 843
    • Florida.
    • BT3000

    #2
    Problem with the Rockler table is that it's not made to leave clearance for the rear rail, and you need that, because the rip fence attaches there (many TS's have fences that only attach to a front rail). If you do put something together on your own, or buy pre-fab, make sure the leading edge of the table is tapered down the slightest bit, so that your workpiece does not "catch" as it comes off the main saw table.
    ...eight, nine, TEN! Yep! Still got all my fingers!

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    • LarryG
      The Full Monte
      • May 2004
      • 6693
      • Off The Back
      • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

      #3
      What just4 said, and remember too that universal outfeed tables don't have a "notch" into which the BT's sliding miter table can slide at the rearward part of its travel. This is not an issue when the SMT is locked for cuts on large panels (when you need an outfeed table the most), but you probably won't want to have to remove the outfeed table in order to use the SMT.
      Larry

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      • wreckwriter
        Established Member
        • Mar 2006
        • 449
        • South Florida
        • BT3100-1

        #4
        Gotcha. So nobody makes one specifically designed for our saws I guess, other than the $200 Ryobi one. Thanks guys.
        http://www.wreckwriter.com/

        Comment

        • just4funsies
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2005
          • 843
          • Florida.
          • BT3000

          #5
          None that I'm aware of, and even if you get the Ryobi, you'll have to fold it down every time you use the SMT.
          ...eight, nine, TEN! Yep! Still got all my fingers!

          Comment

          • wreckwriter
            Established Member
            • Mar 2006
            • 449
            • South Florida
            • BT3100-1

            #6
            Originally posted by just4funsies
            .....even if you get the Ryobi, you'll have to fold it down every time you use the SMT.
            Really? That's for squat

            I guess I have to build one. Any suggestions on how to attach it to the rails so the saw still can be moved?
            http://www.wreckwriter.com/

            Comment

            • geopilot
              Established Member
              • Jan 2006
              • 106
              • Lexington, KY, USA.

              #7
              I used the design in the link below and it was really easy. A hollow core door works well in this application due the light weight. The hinges can be attached with 10-24 FHMS (or 6mm)- the hex nuts just fit the rear rail. Or you can buy the small t-nuts.

              gugie.com - Contact us for any business inquiries

              Comment

              • Tom Miller
                Veteran Member
                • Mar 2003
                • 2507
                • Twin Cities, MN
                • BT3000 - Cuttin' it old school

                #8
                Regarding needing a cutout for the SMT -- obviously you could cut out a piece of a "store-bought" outfeed table. But, if you're buying a purpose-built outfeed table, like the Rockler one, it may have miter slots already cut. If you use the BT3 miter slot accessory, these grooves may or may not match up.

                Half-way in-between making your own outfeed table, and buying one, is to make something that fills in the gap needed for SMT travel. You can route slots for your miter slots, if you have them. Then, you can butt up just about anything if/when you need more outfeed support. Pardon me if you've already seen this, but I posted some pics of my intermediate outfeed table here. (Scroll down towards the bottom.)

                Regards,
                Tom

                Comment

                • Tom Miller
                  Veteran Member
                  • Mar 2003
                  • 2507
                  • Twin Cities, MN
                  • BT3000 - Cuttin' it old school

                  #9
                  Originally posted by just4funsies
                  ...even if you get the Ryobi, you'll have to fold it down every time you use the SMT.
                  WTF?!!! Now that's retarded! Well, at least it's expensive.

                  Regards,
                  Tom

                  Comment

                  • wreckwriter
                    Established Member
                    • Mar 2006
                    • 449
                    • South Florida
                    • BT3100-1

                    #10
                    Originally posted by geopilot
                    I used the design in the link below and it was really easy. A hollow core door works well in this application due the light weight. The hinges can be attached with 10-24 FHMS (or 6mm)- the hex nuts just fit the rear rail. Or you can buy the small t-nuts.

                    http://www.gugie.com/house/cheap_BT3...feed_table.htm
                    That looks like a good method of attachment. Thanks for your time!
                    http://www.wreckwriter.com/

                    Comment

                    • mikeg
                      Forum Newbie
                      • Jan 2006
                      • 81
                      • Milton, VT
                      • BT3100

                      #11
                      Originally posted by geopilot
                      I used the design in the link below and it was really easy. A hollow core door works well in this application due the light weight. The hinges can be attached with 10-24 FHMS (or 6mm)- the hex nuts just fit the rear rail. Or you can buy the small t-nuts.

                      http://www.gugie.com/house/cheap_BT3...feed_table.htm
                      Hey Geopilot,

                      Thanks for that link. I'll be able to kill two birds with one stone! I need an outfeed table and LOML keeps asking why I'm hanging on to that door in the garage!!

                      mikeg

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