Easy Question on the Blade Guard: How to Make Cuts?

[JimD]

I use both techniques discussed here depending on the situation. I have a piece of melamine longer than the rip fence and about 4 inches tall with a t slot on the top attached to the rip fence. I use this on the rip fence virtually all the time. Whe I want to put a stop block on the rip fence, I pull a piece of oak scrap with a toilet bolt to go into the slot on the rip fence and a wing nut to hold it in place. I push the stop block up in line with the blade and use a steel rule to get the rip fence in the right position for the cut. Then I slide the stop block back out to near side of the rip fence. Then it's position the piece to be cut against the stop block then holding it in position push it through the blade. I also have a t slot on the top of a wooden face to the SMT so I can put stop blocks on the SMT. If you need to trim a little bit off a piece, you need to use the stop block on the SMT.

I rarely put a pencil mark on the piece I am cutting anymore. If I do, it is often just to double check the stop block setting. I find I can cut more accurately by positioning stop blocks. I can also easily cut more than one piece to exactly the same size. I use stop blocks with my radial arm saw and CMS as well as the BT3100.

Jim

[LarryG]

I rarely put a pencil mark on the piece I am cutting anymore.

Ditto. In a shop, you want to measure, mark, and do as little arithmetic as possible. The last is particularly important. Even when doing the simplest of equations, it's all too easy to make a mistake.

And when arithmetic IS required, keep it dead simple. That's why my stop block is 1" thick, rather than 3/4" or whatever ... no fractions to keep track of or carry over to the next inch.

We often hear "Measure twice, cut once" but you really don't want to measure at all, if you can avoid it.

[JonW]

Yup, that all makes good sense. I looked at the saw more last night. Clamping on some stop blocks, etc. to the rip fence and miter fence looks just fine. And there are grooves in the fences for T-nuts, sure enough.

Related question: How do you cross cut, say, a 2 (or 3 or 4) foot long piece from a 4 (or 6 or 8) foot piece? You’ve got to remove the rip fence for this. I’d think the best way is to measure and mark with a pencil and then just align with the actual blade or use the sacrificial block on the miter fence. So far, with not much thought, I don’t have a way to do that without measuring and marking.

Oh, and can you folks help me find some more time to actually do some woodworking? This job thing is really getting in the way.

[mschrank]

Related question: How do you cross cut, say, a 2 (or 3 or 4) foot long piece from a 4 (or 6 or 8) foot piece? You’ve got to remove the rip fence for this. I’d think the best way is to measure and mark with a pencil and then just align with the actual blade or use the sacrificial block on the miter fence. So far, with not much thought, I don’t have a way to do that without measuring and marking.

See LarryG's first post in this thread

Oh, and can you folks help me find some more time to actually do some woodworking? This job thing is really getting in the way.

If you think your job eats into your woodworking time, try adding in an infant and a toddler, plus a wife's work schedule that is offset from yours

[JonW]

See LarryG's first post in this thread

No way man. In the past few weeks, I've already bought a table saw, router, sander, and jig saw. I think that's enough for a while.

If you think your job eats into your woodworking time, try adding in an infant and a toddler, plus a wife's work schedule that is offset from yours

Ugh. That might be a picture of my not-so-distant future.

[JonW]

Hi Folks,

I played around with the saw some this weekend. I made myself a 1" stop block from a pine 2x4. So the block is 1" wide, 1.5" tall, and 3.5" long. Held to the rip fence with a quick clamp. Works great! Made things go faster, less measuring, marking,and lining up needed. Thanks for the tips!