Mars 4 pc combination Architectural set $14 shipped

[tommyt654]

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/...on-set-649459/ , OK ,So Hobby Lobby has this set at 40% off plus 17 cent shipping today is the last day for the 17 cent shipping on anything in their store. This is a stainless steel cork backed set thats not too bad, seems to get decent reviews at Amazon , http://www.amazon.com/Staedtler-Comb...owViewpoints=1 , and with the 17 cent shippin its a no brainer. I was lookin thru their architectural tools and saw this. I grabbin it as well as a 36 inch T-square and a 24 incher as well, seperate orders allow the 40% off each item purchased as the link I provided only allows 1 item to be discounted, or just go to Hobby Lobbys website and place how ever many orders you want seperately to get the 40% off. The code discount is 7083.

Alsp I have noticed some here besides myself enjoy doing bandsaw boxes, these help immensly with getting the curves you want in your design , http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/...ve-set-568147/ , just another useful woodworking tool to have in the shop IMHO as well as a useful supply of other craft goods , http://shop.hobbylobby.com/crafts-ho...20Carving&pg=1

[cabinetman]

Seems like a good deal...considering the shipping. Didn't say whether metal or plastic.

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[tommyt654]

Stainless steel according to the Amazon link, I gathered in the link provided from hobby lobby in the headerboard at the top of my computer its the same Mars combination set shown in the Amazon link,so my theoretical deductioning skills lead me to believe its the same stainless steel version as they are similarly priced Watson

[chopnhack]

They are cork lined stainless steel. I wonder how much of an issue the tapered edges are on the triangles? Some reviews mention that this makes them not good for drafting? Anyone have drafting experience that can explain?

[tommyt654]

They are cork backed so they won't slip/slide around, its my assumption since they are tapered they might have a tendency to cut into a wooden pencil somewhat,thats all.

[cabinetman]

They are cork lined stainless steel. I wonder how much of an issue the tapered edges are on the triangles? Some reviews mention that this makes them not good for drafting? Anyone have drafting experience that can explain?

My first guess is that the edge isn't on the writing surface. That gives a different perspective than having the edges on the writing surface, including possible shadows. With using fine point pencils, that would require holding the instrument at the same angle for the length of the line drawn. The slightest tipping would cause a wander, IMO. Personally I don't like corked backed templates. The resistance the cork provides can require more effort moving them around. They also can collect any graphite dust, and dirty up the vellum.

An advantage though, is that they won't slide down as easily if you have the writing surface at angles much greater than flat.

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[Pappy]

My first guess is that the edge isn't on the writing surface. That gives a different perspective than having the edges on the writing surface, including possible shadows. With using fine point pencils, that would require holding the instrument at the same angle for the length of the line drawn. The slightest tipping would cause a wander, IMO. Personally I don't like corked backed templates. The resistance the cork provides can require more effort moving them around. They also can collect any graphite dust, and dirty up the vellum.

An advantage though, is that they won't slide down as easily if you have the writing surface at angles much greater than flat.

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I did some drafting back in the day before CAD and CMan hit the problem with the elevated edges.

[pelligrini]

They are cork lined stainless steel. I wonder how much of an issue the tapered edges are on the triangles? Some reviews mention that this makes them not good for drafting? Anyone have drafting experience that can explain?

Many of my drafting triangles are beveled, a few have a little rabbet, some are square with no relief. The bevels and the rabbet are desired when inking. The little gap prevents the wet ink from wicking up under the edge from capillary action. Most of the problems in the reviews would stem more from the draftsman's technique. It probably depends on how thick the cork is and the angle of the bevel if it really affects use. I have a 24" steel rule with a cork back. I wouldn't want to draw with it, but It does get used very often with an exacto knife.

Personally, I prefer clear edges and triangles when drawing. I do think these would be great for the shop, especially when using a striking knife.

[tommyt654]

"I do think these would be great for the shop, especially when using a striking knife. "

My thoughts exactly

[Big Daddy]

Good Deal.

Thanks Tommy, I just ordered a set. Should work great with a striking knife.

[cwsmith]

Up until the early 90's I did all my illustration work on the 'board' using a parallel and triangles. Staidler-Mars was my first choice for lead-holders, drafting pens, erasers, etc., but second choice for triangles. Deitzen simply made a better triangle; but, Staedler-Mars was a good choice.

Whatever the brand though, everyone used "plastic" triangles. They were better, cheaper, and not susceptable to damaging anything. If you drop a plastic triangle, all that will happen generally is that a point might chip off... with stainless the impact will crumple it back and may even effect the alignment of the angle. I have a set of "Theo. Altenader & Sons" large stainless triangles. They are 1/8-inch thick and cost a bloody fortune when they were purchased back in the late 70's. While purchased for work on printing negatives (by someone else), they were quickly discarded and given to me. I never used them until just the past few years, where they come in handy for the shop as "gauges" to check alignment and the accuracy of my other "angle" measuring tools.

The problem with stainless or any other metal triangle, and especially if it has a taper or beveled edge, is that they will quickly cut or abrade the side of your lead point. For drawing, you really need a perfectly flat and consistant edge... otherwise you'll find your "tuned" point cut off and also too much graphite dust on your vellum (paper).

For inking, you have a similar problem in that the pen point of a typical Staidler or Rapidograph will wear or mar and it doesn't move as smoothly along a steel edge as it would a good plastic one. Again, the edge of the triangle or straight-edge needs to be perfectly flat, and perpendicular to the drawing surface, in order to guide the pen... which absolutely must be vertical to the surface in order to get a consistant line.

The cork on the back of the triangle or straight-edge is very common, but I personally don't like it. For something like a ruler, it can rock to some degree. For a triangle, with it's larger area that's not a problem though. The cork does have a tendency to pick up and hold dirt, not a desireable thing for drafting or illustration.

For the "ink smearing" that they mention, it works, but not really okay. When I first started my career in 1966, the "inker-tracers" that we had would put a thin tape (Chart-Pak) along the edge to raise the triangle so that the ink would not bleed back under the triangle. Proble was that it would get dirty, was impossible to clean, often would move, and it gave no break in the "riser" so you had to always pull back the edge, taking care not to smear the ink.

I started using Dymo-tape (that plastic embossing label maker). I'd simply press a bunch of "I" 's into it, cut them in short pieces and stick them to the back of my triangles. Doesn't get dirty as quickly, easy to clean, and offers breaks in the "riser" so you can move the edge over and around any fresh ink.

However, TODAY... we use the computer and most all of the care, challenges, and certainly the jobs of the people who used to make all these materials have pretty much gone away.

For woodworking though, I'm really glad that I kept all my old stuff, it comes in quite handy. As for the "stainless" steel, it works quite nicely for using with a knife edge... just be careful around any carbide cutting edges like on your saw or router bits.

I hope this helps,

CWS

Regarding

[tommyt654]

Thanks Tommy, I just ordered a set. Should work great with a striking knife.

I did too, just wanted a nice straight edge for short lengths ,never intended these to be used drafting, I was primarily posting them as a woodworking accessory on the cheap. I also p/u a coupla small t-squares as well for a small price compared to other woodworking websites an equivelent tool cost 3-4 times as much and I don't have to drive to get it at 17 cents delivered it was a no-brainer, also can be used setting up tools for usage as well

[Stytooner]

Erik Mentioned my reason for having the edge off the page. When drafting, you have to learn to hold the pen at 90 degrees both directions or perfectly vertical. You cannot get artistic with lines, but you are allowed some room with lettering and arrows. Thank God for CAD.

They do look like a great set to have if you don't have them already. I do though one is still plastic. Could be a good time to upgrade.