Freud LU91M010 RAS/SCMS blade for $34.99

[ragswl4]

Ordered one of these today. It receives high marks and great reviews as a RAS and SCMS blade. Negative hook angle blade. This one is without the RED coating. The RED coated one is LU91R010 for about $5 more.

Both blades eligible for the 10 and 20% discount.

[mabush]

comparison of freud blades

Would anyone care to share an opinion of this blade (LU91M010 thin kerf 60 tooth ATB Crosscutting Miter Saw Blade, original price $49.99) vs LU85R010 (10-Inch 80 Tooth ATB Ultimate Cut-Off Saw Blade, original price 69.99)? Particularly while the extra Freud discount is going on at Amazon.

My intended use is on a Makita SCMS (I've had burning issues with the original blade ever since I bought it (several years), but everything seems to be square wrt table, fences, blade - so I thought I'd try a new blade)

My original thought was the 80 teeth would provide a better finish, and I didn't think I needed a thin kerf blade for this application, (figuring more mass would mean less blade deflection, and I don't think the saw is underpowered) but is there something about the 60 tooth blade that would be better for this application? The descriptions at amazon are little help.

The descriptions at freud are not much help either, though they do give some geometry infromation

http://www.freudtools.com/p-18-thin-...ffbr-nbsp.aspx

http://www.freudtools.com/p-17-ultim...ffbr-nbsp.aspx

that at least differentiates teh blades, but I really can't tell which would be better for my intended use.

Thanks for any input

[ragswl4]

Would anyone care to share an opinion of this blade (LU91M010 thin kerf 60 tooth ATB Crosscutting Miter Saw Blade, original price $49.99) vs LU85R010 (10-Inch 80 Tooth ATB Ultimate Cut-Off Saw Blade, original price 69.99)? Particularly while the extra Freud discount is going on at Amazon.

My intended use is on a Makita SCMS (I've had burning issues with the original blade ever since I bought it (several years), but everything seems to be square wrt table, fences, blade - so I thought I'd try a new blade)

My original thought was the 80 teeth would provide a better finish, and I didn't think I needed a thin kerf blade for this application, (figuring more mass would mean less blade deflection, and I don't think the saw is underpowered) but is there something about the 60 tooth blade that would be better for this application? The descriptions at amazon are little help.

The descriptions at freud are not much help either, though they do give some geometry infromation

http://www.freudtools.com/p-18-thin-...ffbr-nbsp.aspx

http://www.freudtools.com/p-17-ultim...ffbr-nbsp.aspx

that at least differentiates teh blades, but I really can't tell which would be better for my intended use.

Thanks for any input

The LU91 blades have a 5 degree NEGATIVE hook angle on the teeth. This is designed for use on an SCMS or RAS as these saws have a tendency to sometimes climb on top of the wood when a positive hook angle blade is used.

The LU85 blades have a 10 degree positive hook designed for use on table saws. Go to Freudtools.com and check out the specs and uses of the blades before buying. That geometry information on the Freud site is very important and tells a lot about the blade and it use.

When I first purchased a RAS I installed a General Purpose 40 tooth blade, turned it on and cut a board. I did not have to pull the saw because as soon as the blade touched the wood, the saw just kept coming at me because the blade was clawing it way through the board.

For RAS and SCMS the only safe way to go is with a negative hook tooth blade.

[mabush]

thanks for the great information

[Popeye]

It's early but.... don't suppose you'd share with the rest of us where this blade is on sale would ya? Pat

[ragswl4]

It's early but.... don't suppose you'd share with the rest of us where this blade is on sale would ya? Pat

Whoops, guess I could have said where I got it. Sorry about that. It's on Amazon.com and part of their 10% + 20% off blade sale. I'll post a link in a couple of minutes.

http://amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw/102...words=lu91m010

There is also a lu91R010, with the Red finish for a little more.

[davidtu]

Are the RED and plain blades really the same? Is it just a gimmick or does it indicate a design difference? I think I've heard that the red allows less heat build up or something... true? Is that the only difference? Thanks in advance (PS: that means someone has to answer :-)

[ragswl4]

Are the RED and plain blades really the same? Is it just a gimmick or does it indicate a design difference? I think I've heard that the red allows less heat build up or something... true? Is that the only difference? Thanks in advance (PS: that means someone has to answer :-)

According to what I have read they are the same blade and yes, the red coating is supposed to reduce friction. Some complain that the red coating sometimes comes off on the wood. I have not had that happen.

[Knottscott]

Are the RED and plain blades really the same? Is it just a gimmick or does it indicate a design difference? I think I've heard that the red allows less heat build up or something... true? Is that the only difference? Thanks in advance (PS: that means someone has to answer :-)

The Permashield is more than a gimmick, but it's not worth much of a premium over an uncoated version either.....there are many, many fine blades with no coating, and it doesn't effect cutting performance. Theoretically, the wood isn't supposed to touch the body anyway, but check any of your blades and you'll see that it does happen....not sure that's enough to create a significant temperature difference though. If the prices are close, get the coating....if it's $15 + extra, get it uncoated...no worries.

The coating's best attribute may be ease of cleaning, plus the bright coatings on Freud and the new DeWalt blades make it easier to spot the blades in the rack for sure!