Nobody is gonna hit as hard as life. But it ain't how hard you hit; it's about how hard you can get hit, and keep moving forward. How much you can take, and keep moving forward. That's how winning is done. Now, if you know what you're worth, then go out and get what you're worth. But you gotta be willing to take the hit, and not pointing fingers saying you ain't where you are because of him, or her, or anybody. Cowards do that and that ain't you. You're better than that! -Rocky Balboa-
This is a nice deal, but keep in mind that it's a full 1/8" kerf blade which will decrease the feedrate and increase drag on smaller saws. Freud makes a TK version of this blade called the LU83 that sells for closer to $45 with no stabilizer deal right now.
Reviving this thread because today's price for LU84R011 is $35 and if you enter the code 20OFFPTA you will get another $7 off. That's shipped for $30 and change (incl WA state tax $2.46)
Or get the LU83R010 for $39 and change shipped (incl WA state tax $3.15)
Also, the TK rip blade LU87R010 is also $35 "limited offer" so same shipped as LU84. I love this blade on the BT3100. (Tho I just checked my history and found I got this one for $25 (pretax)
"Look, I can't surrender without orders. I mean they emphasized that to me particularly. I don't know exactly why. The guy said "Blake, never surrender without checking"
-Henry Blake
Will a thin-kerf blade work with the stock riving knife/blade guard of the bt3100?
I still only have the 36-tooth blade that shipped with the saw. Should I only consider TK blades or will a FK lu84 work? Is the bt3 considered a "smaller saw" as Dustmight put it?
Just a day or two ago, I ordered the LU85R010 from Amazon for crosscutting. $49.99 -10=39.99.
These blades all look like combination blades. I guess I was hoping to get a pure rip next. Are any of Freud's rips at a bargain price, or should I just pick up one of these? I'd like to get a nice, smooth cut while minimizing chance of kickback when ripping. Apologies if this should go in the getting started.
Just a day or two ago, I ordered the LU85R010 from Amazon for crosscutting. $49.99 -10=39.99.
These blades all look like combination blades. I guess I was hoping to get a pure rip next. Are any of Freud's rips at a bargain price, or should I just pick up one of these? I'd like to get a nice, smooth cut while minimizing chance of kickback when ripping. Apologies if this should go in the getting started.
I see that the 87 is a rip blade. Sorry... I am confused, but trying to learn.
Will a thin-kerf blade work with the stock riving knife/blade guard of the bt3100?
I still only have the 36-tooth blade that shipped with the saw. Should I only consider TK blades or will a FK lu84 work? Is the bt3 considered a "smaller saw" as Dustmight put it?
Thanks,
-Pakaderm
Most of the blade manufacturers recommend the TK's for saws with motors with a real world rating of less than 3hp, so I guess that's the reference for "smaller".
The LU84 should "work", though I'm unsure how it will interact with the riving knife...it'll bog more than a comparable TK, which can cause more strain on the motor and will be more prone to burning. The LU83 is the TK counterpart to the LU84. If you're looking for good value that will work well with your saw, check out the LU86R010 TK 40T....$28 shipped after 20% code, and I actually prefer it to my LU84.
Nobody is gonna hit as hard as life. But it ain't how hard you hit; it's about how hard you can get hit, and keep moving forward. How much you can take, and keep moving forward. That's how winning is done. Now, if you know what you're worth, then go out and get what you're worth. But you gotta be willing to take the hit, and not pointing fingers saying you ain't where you are because of him, or her, or anybody. Cowards do that and that ain't you. You're better than that! -Rocky Balboa-
Stupid question guys- what does the stabilizer do? I have had my saw for about 7-8 months and am looking to upgrade the blade from the OEM. If I get a thin kerf (thinking the LU86), will I need a stabilizer too?
Thanks!
F#$@ no good piece of S#$% piece of #$@#% #@$#% #$@#$ wood! Dang. - Me woodworking
Stupid question guys- what does the stabilizer do? I have had my saw for about 7-8 months and am looking to upgrade the blade from the OEM. If I get a thin kerf (thinking the LU86), will I need a stabilizer too?
Thanks!
I believe the stabilizer is suppose to add some support and weight to the blade to minimize vibration and run out. My understanding is for most the stabilizer doesn't really make too much of a difference.
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