Do you still use your BT3X?

[MBG]

I started with one of these Hirsh tables when I was a teen:




Then bought a BT3000 within a year of introduction for around $550!

Thereafter I bought two BT3100's when they were around $180 out the door at Home Depot (with a 20% HF coupon):




Sold the Frankensaw when I found a Sears zip code saw (22124) for $500 at Sears Surplus:




Then went into the full cabinet saw mode with a brand new Uni:




Almost had a kick-back feeding a single sheet of ply by myself through the Uni so I bought a track saw before they took off. Mine happened to be from Eurekazone. I built my own track saw bench and have almost all of their toys. I became so proficient with the track saw I decided to sell my Unisaw:




Still needed a small TS for long rips and some other cuts so I bought a Bosch GTS1031:




Didn't like the GTS for my needs so kept looking at CL and my local Sears Outlet's for BT's or 21829. On the 4th of July got lucky and snagged a NIB 21829 for $280 + tax:

(sorry no pictures yet)


So in about 30 years of woodworking I'm about back where I started.

Mike

[charliex]

Number 2

When the smoke escaped from my original BT3100 I replaced it with a Sears look-a / work a like. Some times I would like to upgrade but the CMan does what I need and it fits on the rolling cabinet I built for my BT3100. I would like a PMatic, Uni or SawStop but I don't really have room or the spare cash. Unless the smoke escapes from the CMan it will stay in use. Generally when it comes to mistakes almost all are mine not the saws.

[dkerfoot]

I own a 21829 and can't imagine buying another saw, even though I just burned out the motor. (dumb move on my part) I'll either replace the motor or buy a new armature which is currently available for $98.58.

For me, the truly excellent folding stand, longer rails and 2nd, deeper fence position on the SMT provide significant extra value over the BT3100.

.

[woodturner]

I own a 21829 and can't imagine buying another saw, even though I just burned out the motor. (dumb move on my part)

What happened that burned out the motor? I would have thought the belts would break first.

[dkerfoot]

Make my foolishness public, eh? Sigh...

Resawing bloodwood (Satine - very hard, dense wood). Kept on after it became obvious that the saw was really struggling with it. What I should have done is take it in light incremental passes (not 3+ inches deep) and or used the bandsaw.

Looking at the partially cut piece, it is also obvious that the wood has significant internal tension. The kerf of the partially cut piece is closed up tight. Thankfully the Sharkguard riving knife prevented me from wearing the board as body-art.


One of those situations where hindsight is 20/20. The saw does what it does really well, but it was just never designed to handle the load I put on it.


.

[BadeMillsap]

Make my foolishness public, eh? ...

One of those situations where hindsight is 20/20. The saw does what it does really well, but it was just never designed to handle the load I put on it.


.

I used a similar... "choice"... as an excuse to buy a Grizzly 1023SL a few years back... look for the silver lining!

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

[eccentrictinkerer]

After abusing the motor on my BT3 accidentally () I mounted the remote temp sensor from a cheap indoor/ outdoor thermometer onto the motor assembly.

It's not pretty but it does give me an indication of what's happening under the hood. I also don't push the saw as much as I use to.

[dkerfoot]

Bade - The 21829 is pretty much the perfect saw for me. I absolutely require the fold and stow ability. What I really need is a friend with a serious cabinet saw so that I can outsource the occasional, exceptional job...

J.D. - I assume that the motor that you accidentally abused is not the same one I am in the process of buying from you!

Great idea about the temperature monitor! I may do something similar when I put the saw back together.

.

[eccentrictinkerer]

Bade - The 21829 is pretty much the perfect saw for me. I absolutely require the fold and stow ability. What I really need is a friend with a serious cabinet saw so that I can outsource the occasional, exceptional job...

J.D. - I assume that the motor that you accidentally abused is not the same one I am in the process of buying from you!

Great idea about the temperature monitor! I may do something similar when I put the saw back together.

.

Nope! You'll see when you get it that it's in new condition. The saw suffered a terrible accident within days of its purchase by the original owner (it got driven over ). I bought it for all the accessories that made it through unscathed. BTW, the stock sheetmetal house does serve as an effective crash-barrier. No airbags required.

[thestinker]

It's still the only saw I own.

[RobertB574]

Still use my BT3100 that I bought in 2005. It is my first and only table saw. We get along just fine.

[alatraveler50]

New BT3 member here. Bought a used BT3000 for $75 week before last. Past weekend needed to cut down some shelves on my home made entertainment center. Worked like a champ. So far I'm very pleased with this TS. Also own a Ryobi RTS20 which I needed to buy when the motor on my old Craftsman burned up and a Delta which I use for job site projects.

BT is in my 12x24 workshop at the lake. Gets a bit cramped right now while I'm getting it all set up.

[Toddah]

Still the center of my shop

My BT3000 has been used on dozens of projects including my Kitchen gut and rebuild including all the face frame cupboards drawers and trim. I have finished out the inside of my 3 car garage with it as well as building a few fences. I have my fathers case iron Sears table saw that I rebuilt in my garage and I use that for ripping stock outside down to manageable sized units I can fit in my small shop.
I have been using the 3000 since 2003 or 4 and all I ever did was replace the belt and shims one time.
I did buy extra shims and belts when I did the first replacement but other than that it holds up just fine.
Long term advice:
Don't force anything, if a handle turns hard look and see why instead of just heaving down on the adjustment.
Let the motor do it's work without forcing things through the blade.
I have cut MANY MANY sheets of 3/4" 9 ply euro birch plywood for cabinets and boxes I have build and never had an issue.
Mine sits in a cabinet I made to extend the base and give the saw some weight and I could not be happier with it.

[lrr]

I am getting a lot more use out of my BT3100 since I put a Forrest Woodworker II blade on it. First thing I cut was some 8/4 oak, and it breezed right thru it. I bought the 30T version, recommended by Forrest for wood 2" and over (and I got the thin kerf model, and the blade stiffener, too). The 40T is recommended as more of a combo blade, and for cutting wood less than 2" thick.

I will likely upgrade to a Saw Stop in another year or so, but the new blade was a real game changer for getting more out of the BT3100.

[Ruben]

Trying to get along with mine since i upgraded from an old craftsman contractor saw. It's been around three months, I love rock solid fence and the sliding miter saw.