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Mable give up her secrets and thanks all of you
First off, Many, many thanks for all the good comments from you guys, Your validation is really important to me as by the time I finally finish a project, so much time has gone by that I end up hating it.
Its very reassuring that you people, who I have tremendous respect for, and who probably do much better stuff than me, commented so positively.
I’m almost 66 and I started woodworking about 25 years ago, but until I purchased the BT3100, I really hadn’t done any “real” work. So I still consider myself a beginner.
To answer your questions:
The finish I normally use is 3-4 coats of Watco natural oil finish, and I never stain or colorize wood. After the first coat, I then apply the oil using finer degrees of wet/dry sandpaper, starting at 320 and ending with 600 grit. These wet sand coats are wiped off within 5 minutes of the application and allowed to dry overnight.
Usually, I then give the piece a good coat of Liberon “clear” paste wax applying it with 4x0 steel wool. I find that Liberon’s wool is really superior to all the others, especially the crap they sell at the big box places.
In the case of this table, I had to coat the top with a few coats of wipe on poly. Minwax has been written about in Fine Woodworking as the best and the cheapest. This was my first time of using a protective topcoat and it wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be.
I guess the Cherry did darken somewhat, but if you look carefully, it also blotched. I’ll definitely use a first coat of something to seal the wood; you learn something all the time by messing up.
And Steve, its real Gabon Ebony, but don’t tell my wife what it costs. I don’t use too much, so I don’t end up totally broke.
Ebony, when sanded, finishing up with 600 grit, and then buffed out on a rag wheel using white rouge, is just unbelievable.
Trundoc, the ends of the top, which is glued up from separate 5” boards, ard called “Breadboards” and they are attached to the ends of the top using a full width spline, which is glued to the table top but only spot gluce in one place only to the breadboard ends. This is done to prevent the top boards from cupping and possibly breaking from movement due to change of humidity. They are, hawever screwed in two places also.
Taking a class with Darrell Peart was really inspiring. The guy is just overwhelming to watch and he’s a real adverage type, no BS or attitude.
He has one book out now with another coming out in the early summer. Good photos and easy to understand instructions. If you’re into Greene & Green, owning his book (s) are a must.
Oh and Don, let me know what Friday night you want to raid the shop, I’ll take in my toy poodle who thinks she’s a Pit Bull so she doesn’t get indigestion from chewing on you. You got the best answers around.
Again, thanks for all the good comments.
Bruce
Its very reassuring that you people, who I have tremendous respect for, and who probably do much better stuff than me, commented so positively.
I’m almost 66 and I started woodworking about 25 years ago, but until I purchased the BT3100, I really hadn’t done any “real” work. So I still consider myself a beginner.
To answer your questions:
The finish I normally use is 3-4 coats of Watco natural oil finish, and I never stain or colorize wood. After the first coat, I then apply the oil using finer degrees of wet/dry sandpaper, starting at 320 and ending with 600 grit. These wet sand coats are wiped off within 5 minutes of the application and allowed to dry overnight.
Usually, I then give the piece a good coat of Liberon “clear” paste wax applying it with 4x0 steel wool. I find that Liberon’s wool is really superior to all the others, especially the crap they sell at the big box places.
In the case of this table, I had to coat the top with a few coats of wipe on poly. Minwax has been written about in Fine Woodworking as the best and the cheapest. This was my first time of using a protective topcoat and it wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be.
I guess the Cherry did darken somewhat, but if you look carefully, it also blotched. I’ll definitely use a first coat of something to seal the wood; you learn something all the time by messing up.
And Steve, its real Gabon Ebony, but don’t tell my wife what it costs. I don’t use too much, so I don’t end up totally broke.
Ebony, when sanded, finishing up with 600 grit, and then buffed out on a rag wheel using white rouge, is just unbelievable.
Trundoc, the ends of the top, which is glued up from separate 5” boards, ard called “Breadboards” and they are attached to the ends of the top using a full width spline, which is glued to the table top but only spot gluce in one place only to the breadboard ends. This is done to prevent the top boards from cupping and possibly breaking from movement due to change of humidity. They are, hawever screwed in two places also.
Taking a class with Darrell Peart was really inspiring. The guy is just overwhelming to watch and he’s a real adverage type, no BS or attitude.
He has one book out now with another coming out in the early summer. Good photos and easy to understand instructions. If you’re into Greene & Green, owning his book (s) are a must.
Oh and Don, let me know what Friday night you want to raid the shop, I’ll take in my toy poodle who thinks she’s a Pit Bull so she doesn’t get indigestion from chewing on you. You got the best answers around.
Again, thanks for all the good comments.
Bruce
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