Crossroads

[Cochese]

Probably neither.

I will either have to learn to live with mistakes, take more time and try to make less, or give it up as a bad job.

I think a lot of my frustration comes from lack of experience. I need more practice, and I shouldn't be trying unproven techniques on major projects like this.

I also really need to learn to do test pieces. That would be a major help.

[Bruce Cohen]

I kind of read through this thread quickly, so I don't know it this was mentioned or not.
First off, from making jewelry boxes, dealing with measurements and allowances have become major important to me. I no linger consider 1/16" difference acceptable, I'm not into 1/64"s. You just can't hide screw-ups as easily as you can with larger projects.
I found that starting off with really good measuring tools is key to getting better results.
I only use Starret squares, really good digital calipers (in the inch, not fractional mode, no rounding off to nearest fraction.) Good rules, I really like the black triangular ones from Bridge City Tools. Yes, they cost more, but I save a bunch of money by no longer throwing wong size parts into the sheet rock.
A good straight edge is also a "must have".
Ya gotta keep in mind that these "tools" set the standard for getting your work correct. Sloppy just doesn't cut it (sorry about the rotten pun), it these tools are off, so's your work and your mind set when you get frustrated and mentally give up.

Use the same rule for your entire project, so if its off, at least all your measurements will be consistantly off by the same amount. And you'll still have an acceptable piece.

And last and most importantly, If you stat messing up or you're not into working, stop and do something else. Working when you're pissed or frustrated or bored is only going to make you more of the same. All my accidents happened when I knew I should have stopped ten minutes earlier.

I also found it "safer" to only design with my abilities in mind.
Good luck and take it slowly, you eventually get to where you want to be.

Bruce

[toolguy1000]

three changes in approach/technique greatly improved my woodworking skills all the way up to barely acceptable: (1) make all pieces that share a dimensioned mating side or surface at the same time. eliminates minor diffferences that are bound to occur when trying to cut exactly the same measurement at two different times. (2) make a dead on crosscut sled that accomodates at least 26". that way, cabinet box components and larger items are always square. (3) "fit" components that are inside the piece's basic box rather than measuring everything.

keep trying. allow yourself to make mistakes. that's when we learn the most. eventually, it'll all work.

[JimD]

I've been making furniture for my family for over 30 years now. I still have many of the initial pieces I made. My early furniture is softwood shelving boards glued together as necessary (with pipe clamps) and glued and screwed together joints (plugged with dowel pieces where they showed). It is crude. But it works. The first dresser had a carcass so out of square I had to cut some of the drawers apart to taper them to compensate. But it works, not real well, but it works. It is in my basement guest room so it rarely gets used now. A companion armoire is in my upstairs guest room. I learned from my mistake and it is square enough everything works well.

I've since progressed to different joints. But by starting out with only very simple joints I was able to get something done we could use while I was learning.

A few good techniques I will share, just-in-case they help, are to measure the stop or the rip fence, not the workpiece. Nobody gets as good accuracy putting a mark on the piece as they will achieve by measuring the fence or setting a stop. When cross cutting I like to set the stop a little long and then insert business cards to nibble up to the desired dimension. I try to arrange my cutting so all the pieces of a particular dimension can be cut with the one fence or stop setting.

It sounds like your issue may be warped wood. It is pretty consistently an issue trying to build anything square or accurately out of warped wood. I like my planner more than my jointer but I try to do what's right and use the jointer first to flatten one face and square one edge. Doing what I want is a temptation that sometimes leads to my errors.

I also make mistakes in plans sometimes. I hate those but they happen. Cutting pieces off of the other pieces sometimes helps me pick up the issue before I ruin wood.

Jim

[Mr__Bill]

Lots of good advice here. Here are some of my thoughts:

Lines have width, you have to know which side of the line is the cut, do you take the line or leave the line. A marking knife is much better than a pencil.

Should you perhaps be using your reading glasses?

Errors tend to multiply, not just add up. There is always a little bit of play in everything, watch for it and try to use it to advantage.

When checking for square look across the wood and under the tool for light

Decide in advance on your rule just where the measurement is, center of the mark or one of the edges.

When ever possible always use the same measuring device.

Always check for square when using your CMS or miter gauge on the table saw.

A piece of wood with a very slight bow will have the end cut just slightly off of whatever angel you were trying for.

Cut all the same pieces at the same time with only one tool set up.

When jointing the edge of boards that will mate, do one face to the fence and the next back to the fence, the amount the fence is off when jointing all face to fence will make for open glue lines.

When ever possible make at least one extra piece so the worst one can be discarded.

Don't work when you are tired or frustrated.

Don't let finished cut pieces lay around too long before you assemble unless you can control the temp and humidity, they will change size and shape with environmental changes.

An 1/8" gouge can be used to make all the joints have the same gap and then filled in with black plastic wood..... I really think the first guy who did inlay was fixing a mistake.

Now if I could just follow my own advice

Bill

[toolguy1000]

FYI, issue 214, oct 2012, of wood magazine has a short article on pages 64 -67 about getting projects to come out square.