Worth it?

[durango dude]

I started into a really simple project (shaker mantle clock) - and quickly figured out that I simply don't have the right tools.

The project calls for mortise and tenon work, as well as rabbet joinery. The wood is really too thin to use dowels (my go-to joinery method) - or pocket screws (not on a shaker style clock --- that's just not right).

My BT did a great job cutting everything to size --- but the joinery really isn't table-saw work. (that's the part that's getting me).

I figured out that I really need better layout tools (a tape measure simply doesn't work well at the scale I'm working with). I also figured out that a good deal of my problems come from wood not quite being perfectly square (square isn't cheap, either!). Solution - marking gauge and square. (dang - they're expensive!).

I also decided that my BT table saw -- while fantastic - is not ideal for a 7" half inch thick shelf that requires quarter inch deep and wide rabbets an. Yeah - I have a dado - but the fence simply doesn't work well at the small scale. I've lost a board foot of nice walnut, so far - and don't want to lose more. Solution --- hand saws and chisels (or a router setup - which would run about the same - and be less versatile).

I know I need a scraper set (not really that expensive). I threw in the chisels for good measure (need them for the tenon cuts).

Here's what I'm looking at --- and I'm wondering if I'm simply getting carried away.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2&blockType=G2

[Chris_B]

"Worth it?" is only a question that *you* can answer.

If *I* was considering the set of tools in that link, Sears would not be my first destination.
For me, I'd start at Lee Valley and see what it would cost for a high-quality set of alternatives.

One possible combination:

1. 6" Double Square - Link - $39 (I have one and it is excellent)
2. Narex chisel set - Link - $41 (I've had great success with the Narex chisels)
3. Mallet - Link - $17 (I don't have - or particularly want - a fancy mallet)
4. Veritas scraping set - Link - $90 (on my wish-list for LOML)
5. Veritas Carcass saw - Link - $69 (ditto)

This totals $256 (plus shipping) and IMO will do everything that the Sears set can handle.

But a similar set of tools can certainly be assembled from other suppliers (or CL) for less, possibly MUCH less. The trade-off will be time and/or quality. Only you can decide if this is a good value...

[JR]

My BT did a great job cutting everything to size --- but the joinery really isn't table-saw work. (that's the part that's getting me).
...
I also decided that my BT table saw -- while fantastic - is not ideal for a 7" half inch thick shelf that requires quarter inch deep and wide rabbets an. Yeah - I have a dado - but the fence simply doesn't work well at the small scale.

I'd think you could get those tools for a lot less than that bundle price. And I'm not sure they'd solve your problem. If just HAVE stock up on a major upgrade of that kind (a sentiment I could understand!), a trip to Rockler or Woodcraft, or even Sears, should set up at a lower price.

I've done plenty of mortises, tenons, dadoes, and rabbets. With the exception of mortises, all those things can be easily done with the BT.

This jewelry chest is made out of 3/8" cherry. The drawers have mitered fronts, reinforced with keys, and dadoes for the bottoms and backs. The joinery for the case is all done with dadoes cut on the BT. It's on my mind because I'm making a new one out of mahogony and walnut.





One thing you might think about adding to your table saw is a micropositioner. I frequently make dadoes with a single thin-kerf blade by making multiple passes, changing fence position with the micropositioner after each pass. You can get a perfect fit with the mating material.

As to mortises, the tools you pointed to don't really solve that problem. Sure, the markers would be helpful, but not essential, but how would you actually do the cutting? With the chisels? That sounds painful.

JR

[mpc]

Like the others said, browse through Lee Valley before jumping on that Sears set. And Rockler and Woodcraft too.

As for the mortise & tenons... with a few jigs the BT saw can make wonderful tenons easily/repeatedly/accurately. Browse the ideas on this site; folks have made some inexpensive jigs that'll easily match the fancy tenoning jigs you see on TV woodworking shows. Using the BT takes a little lateral thinking compared to a traditional table saw thanks to the BT's unique - and highly versatile - fence & sliding miter table setup. Not many saws have a fence that clamps at the rear like the BT... the BT's fence is rock solid compared to many more expensive saws and thus is a great "track" for jigs.

For mortises, I'd suggest starting with a router and a straight bit or even better a spiral upcut/downcut type of bit (more expensive). You'll get mortises that have rounded corners... a little work with a small chisel cleans up the corners. Simple jigs made of scrap boards (similar to the jigs for cutting grooves/dados) will control the router - helping you make a straight cut and helping you start & stop at the right spot for the mortise.

Spend a little time eyeballing the jigs/fixtures on this site and get some ideas of add-ons for your BT and for a router. They'll help you see ways to make your project easier and will be good woodworking practice.

Oh, something else you'll need: a way to sharpen scrapers and especially chisels. For chisels, a piece of glass and several fine sandpaper grits works great - look up "Scary Sharp" for details. You can either make a wooden wedge at the angles of your chisels or buy one (or more) of the multitude of gizmos that hold the tool at a specific angle for your tools. I have the Veritas Mark II guide and it's idiot-proof and works very well. And built well too; it'll last a long long time.

Marking gauges and squares: again, something you can probably make yourself fairly cheaply. Yeah, maybe it won't have the fancy brass strip to minimize wear but you don't need that for your first one. An X-acto blade, a stick of hardwood, and a block with a locking screw are quite serviceable. For squares, that's something else you can make. Use a plastic drafting triangle from any office supply place as a reference when making one. Those triangles are great for BT setups/alignments too. One "tip" for using a marking gauge: always reference from one side of a workpieces (the front if possible) and one adjacent face. Don't use the opposite sides - unless the workpieces is absolutely consistent in size. That's a common source of measurement errors.

mpc