Help With Ryobi Router

[4estgump]

How do you get the clamp holder, under the nut that holds the bit shaft in place? I have the bit out and the nut off, but can not get that holder out. Have used penatrating oil and pliers with no luck. Any ideas or help will be used.
Thank You 4estgump

[cwsmith]

Do you mean the "collett".... that's the tapered, tube-like collar, with splines cut into it to hold on to the cutter's shank?

(When you mentioned "clamp" my first thoughts were of the device used to hold the motor in position within the base. )

Also helpful, would be the model number you are talking about.

CWS

[cwsmith]

To follow up, I took a look at the three Ryobi routers that I have (one is an old Ryobi-made Craftsman) and two of them have collett assemblies... which is basically the collet, held to the nut with a retaining ring. With those, you can't remove the nut from the shaft without also removing the attached collet.

However, if your router is like my Ryobi Model R161, there is no separate "collet", only a "collet nut" which is used on the machined end of the armature. The amateur itself is "split" and tapered and thus clamps around the bit shank as you tighten the "collet nut".

So if your router is an inexpensive one, like my R161 you can't remove the collet as it's simply the machined end of the motor armature.

I hope this helps,

CWS

[4estgump]

CW,
Thank you. Mine is like you said collet made to armature. Looks like after this project it will go into my machine shop and be made to hold its own collet.
Thank You So Much 4est

[cwsmith]

I was in Home Depot this afternoon and took a look at the Ryobi R163, which is their present "low-end" (and probable replacement for my 7-year old R161) router.

Again, the end of the armature is machined with slits, but on this version there is actually what appears to be a collet that looks like spring-steel. But, it appears to be press-fitted into the end of the armature shaft. The collet nut comes off easy enough, but the collet does not, even though it is most definitely a different metal than the amature shaft.

Not sure how much time one would want to invest on re-machining the shaft to fit a separate collet, but hey, challenges are often worthy unto themselves.

CWS

[eezlock]

ryobi router

I think that "collet" is machined into the arbor shaft and is not removable.
If it is not damaged, why would it need to be removed? These routers only accept 1/4" shank router bits....not 1/2" bits....so why change it out? Not clear to me about this...........

[4estgump]

Eez,
Mine is a R160K and is about 15 years old. It has never caused me any trouble until last week. Now the shanks are slipping, and moving up. Have it mounted upside under my table. I was going to replace the collet. That was the reason for the first post. So now i know either the bevel in the nut is worn or the collet is worn. It sucks to set your bit, start your work and find out the bit has moved 1/8th to 1/4th inch. Hope this makes it more clear to you.
Thank You All 4est

[Bruce Cohen]

Yo Forrest,

STOP what you're doing, Buy a Dewalt or Porter Cable. Yup, they're more expensive, but in the long run, a much better made and longer lasting tool. Sometimes low price is just that-LOW.

Best,

Bruce

[wbsettle]

Yo Forrest,

STOP what you're doing, Buy a Dewalt or Porter Cable. Yup, they're more expensive, but in the long run, a much better made and longer lasting tool. Sometimes low price is just that-LOW.

Best,

Bruce

Uhm, I'd say 15 years out of a $60 router was a pretty good deal. While the DeWalt or P-C probably offer other advantages, even the cheapest DeWalt at HD will need to last more than 30 years to have the same ROI.

-Brent