Worksharp Opinions?

[phrog]

I know many of you got in on the Worksharp 3000 mistake by Sears. Just wondering, now a year later, what you'all think of the Worksharp? What method of sharpening do you guys use - worksharp, grinder, sandpaper, etc?

[charliex]

Ok! I paid full price for my 3000 but they did throw in a leather hone disk. I have only used it one time to sharpen 14 chisels, 10 plane blades and a bunch of knife blades, all in less than sharp condition. Took me two sessions of several hours each. I went through a lot of course disks and a few finer grits. Results were better than expected. I thought it would take a few sessions to get used to using but within a couple of blades I had it down. Great way to go if it's in the budget. It's basically a scary sharp motorized edition. The stones and scary sharp methods are very hard on my arthritic arms, wrists, elbows and shoulders.
Chas

[pelligrini]

Love it!

I haven't had mine quite as long. I got my 3000 during a sale at woodcraft early last summer, it also included the leather hone. I also purchased the Wide Blade Attachment for my plane irons. I'm thinking about getting the knife & scissors attachment for my Christmas present.

It takes quite a bit of work out of sharpening, and once sharp keeping them that way is a breeze. I used to use sandpaper & honing films and a MK-II guide. Some of the plane irons I got off of Ebay took me hours to get lapped, shaped and sharpened right. I think I was starting to develop some Popeye forearms too.

I get more consistent and reliable results in a much smaller amount of time with my Worksharp. I wish I would have treated myself with one a long time ago. Getting the Wide Blade Attachment aligned was a bit of a pain, I wouldn't want to take it off and on very often.

[phrog]

Thanks Charlie and Erik for your opinions. I wonder if the machine can be used to sharpen curved edges like lathe turning gouges or carving gouges?

[Chris_B]

I really like the WorkSharp, but I've used it mainly for bench & mortise chisels. For flattening soles, it is *awesome*! Previously I dreaded tackling soles (& flattened as little of the chisel as possible) because it was such a PITA. The WorkSharp also gets the initial bevel very close, very fast.

For fine honing & setting a micro-bevel (chisels & plane blades) I still prefer a water stone with the Veritas Mk-II. The final steps now only take a few minutes. I've tried it both ways, and (except for soaking the stone) find the water stone faster and more repeatable.

For lathe tools, I much prefer a low-speed grinder with good wheels and jigs; touching-up a gouge takes just seconds, and is very repeatable. For knives, I still use a 1" belt sander & mount a 1" leather belt for final honing; I find it easier and faster handling curved edges on the small belt.

However, if I did not already have water stones, Mk-II, grinder & 1" belt sander, I probably would use the WorkSharp for everything - except maybe the lathe tools.

[Ed62]

I've been using the MK II and sandpaper on a piece of granite. Never used the Workshop.

Ed

[jonathan55]

Finally a sharpening system that works for me! I love mine!

[vaking]

Thanks Charlie and Erik for your opinions. I wonder if the machine can be used to sharpen curved edges like lathe turning gouges or carving gouges?

Yes it can. One of the items supplied with Worksharp is the see-thru disk that allows you to sharpen on the bottom side of the disk while being able to see what you are doing through the disk. This is particularly usefull for curved edges. In fact I was fine sharpening straight chisels and plane irons with stones before and curved edges were my main reason for getting worksharp. Now my carving tools are a lot more usefull.

[phrog]

Thanks, Chris, Ed, Jonathan, and Alex. Glad to know that you can sharpen curves - makes it much more useful. Also, interested to learn about the MK II so many of you are mentioning.

[pelligrini]

The Veritas MK-II is a neat little roller guide. A lot of the woodworking stores are selling it. As with most Veritas products I've tried, it is well made and accurate and repeatable. You can use it on stones, sandpaper, films, loose diamonds etc. It can handle a wide range of sizes and bevel angles.

I think the best feature is a quick way to do a secondary bevel or micro-bevel. I've been meaning to pick up the camber roller assembly for some of my plane irons that need a bigger camber. I haven't quite been able to do them accurately yet. I'll use my MK-II with my worksharp for wide blades. I like it better than the roller guide that came with the wide blade kit.

[phrog]

Thanks Erik.

[pelligrini]

No problem, you're welcome.

You don't really need all these tools and aids to get your steel sharp. A couple stones and a strop worked fine for 100's of years. They sure do make things a bit easier. I never really could freehand sharpen like the results I get with the guides and now the worksharp. They do save me some time and effort though.

Besides, they're pretty cool toys too.

[phrog]

Just ordered the Worksharp last night for $140.32 delivered from Amazon. You guys have not steered me wrong before so I decided to take the plunge. Thanks.

[pelligrini]

That's a pretty good deal.

I paid a little less than $200 for mine with the leather hone. Still worth every penny.

[phrog]

That's a pretty good deal.

I paid a little less than $200 for mine with the leather hone. Still worth every penny.

I started to order the leather hone separately. (About $20 - $25 if I remember correctly). Do you think the leather hone is worth it, Erik? Thanks.