ordered a new saw - finally

[cabinetman]

Congratulations. Just remember it will not cut a hot dog.
.

[jkristia]

Quick update.

I have now used the saw for a little more than a week and it is (to me) an awesome saw.
At first the saw had some small vibrations, not much, but enough to notice, but after using it for a couple of evenings it disappeared (most likely the belt) and now it runs super smooth.

If I have to find anything to complain about then it would be the miter gauge. Seems a bit cheap compared to the quality of the saw.

[Uncle Cracker]

If I have to find anything to complain about then it would be the miter gauge. Seems a bit cheap compared to the quality of the saw.

I think that's a common feeling about a lot of saws. The manufacturers probably assume you're going to upgrade to one of the Incra products, or some such. That's probably exactly what you should do.

[jabe]

Great looking saw, congrats on your purchase. If I had the room I would buy that saw too, my wife would go nuts if I bought another TS cause I have 3 already. Maybe I could convince her with the safety aspect of the Sawstop. Anyway enjoy your Sawstop.

[krogers]

Ooooooooooh! Aaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhh! And throw in a little jealousy. I have been looking and debating that exact saw/model for a while. I was just about to ask the BT3 gang if anyone had any recent SawStop experience to share, and here you are.

I am really interested in your feedback on this saw. Two specific topics/questions for you.

1. How much depth does the saw require? With the motor hanging off the back of the contractor version I am worried about space. I believe the specs say 45 inches for contractor and 33" for Prof Cab model. Really wish Sawstop would make a hybrid cab saw to run on 110.

2. How is the mobile base with two fixed and two 360 casters? Have any experience with a Herc-u-lift? I currently have a herc-u-lift on my BT3 and I love it. It has 4 360 casters which allow me to push the saw straight back under a bench where it is stored. The fixed casters of the SS mobile base won't let me do that? Do you think a herc-u-lift could be used on the SS contractor model? Or do you think the fixed casters of the SS mobile base could be replaced with 360 wheels?

[I said two questions. How many was that really?]

By the way, there was a previous question about cutting wet/treated lumber. There definitely is a bypass switch on the SS that allows you to cut wet or treated lumber, and
metals. Nice safety feature is that you have to reset the bypass everytime you turn on the saw. Meaning that the saw automatically resets from bypass mode back to "safe" mode everytime the saw is turned off.

Thanks for your input. And good luck with that new saw. It is a beauty.

[krogers]

And another question for you. Do you mind sharing what you paid for the saw and the options (mobile base, cast iron wings) ? I have not been able to find any real world prices, just MSRP. I noticed that you did not opt for the dust collection panel. Looked like a waste to me too. I don't know the cost, but I would think that a $5 4" to 2.5" reducer would negate the need for that option. - Kevin

[jkristia]

#1 Depth
When the saw is placed up against the wall the distance from the wall to the front of the front rail is 42”, that is with the motor touching the wall.

#2 The mobile base.
It did take a little to get used to the fixed casters, and yes obviously you can’t push it straight back to the wall, but when I move it back to the wall I kind of ‘back it up’ to the wall by pulling on the left end of the saw and then swing it into position. I haven’t really checked how much extra space I need on the left side of the saw, but probably a couple of feet (I would guess). I have no experience with any other mobile base so I wouldn’t know how it compares to other . At first I was not sure it was worth paying the extra price for the SS mobile base as compared to the generic one (don’t remember the brand) they had in the store, but in the end I decided to go with the SS base. It is very well made, but I don’t know if it is worth the extra cost.

For the safety override, yes it is required each time you start the saw, so you can’t leave it in the override mode by mistake. Of course I had to try the override, and at first I couldn’t get it to work, and I actually had to read the ‘trouble shooting’ section in the manual, and the first suggestion there was ‘make sure the key is all the way in’, and sure enough, I did not have the key all the way in, but was still able to turn it – but nothing happened, not sure why it is made this way.
When you touch the blade with your finger (when stopped of course  ) the light goes read, and it is recommended in the manual to – if in doubt – to make one cut in override mode and then check the light, if the red light blinks it means it detected the material to be conductive.

For the dust port, I actually did intend to buy it, but I guess I was too excited that day in the store and I completely forgot about it, but I think I am going to order one, just so it is easier to connect/disconnect the vacuum (or DC whenever I get one).

As for the cost, it is pricey. I bought it through the local Woodcraft store and they were not able or allowed to give me any time of discount, other than the $15 coupon they had that weekend – wow – so I paid list price for it all,
$1500 for the saw, $200 for the cast iron wings, $300 for the fence, $160 for the mobile base and on top of all that the local sales tax –urgh!!... and now $50 for the dust port, $30 for a dado insert and $90 for the dado cartridge ….. urgh!!!

But I’m really happy with the saw and I’m glad I decided to buy the upgrade immediately instead of first using the saw in the basic configuration. I’m sure it is a fine saw with the steel wings and aluminum fence, but the upgrade is what makes it a great saw (in my opinion)

Jesper

[krogers]

Thanks Jesper! Your information is very helpful for my decision on a new saw. The 42" depth is my biggest problem. Storing a new SS is the same place as my BT3 would leave a lot of saw hanging out in the traffic pattern. But I might have to make that work. If it were really important the other option would be to buy the Professional Cabinet model and upgrade my detached garage shop to 220v. But now we are into some serious money.

Cutting a hole in the interior wall for the motor would give me an additional 4". In your opinion would that work? Is it just the motor hangin off the back. If I cut a hole for the motor would the stand and back rail interfere with sliding the whole unit farther back against the wall?

The fixed casters on the SS mobile base are still a problem. I won't have the clearance to swing the unit that you describe. I am going to have to research the herc-u-lift idea.

Thanks again for you help. - Kevin

[krogers]

why dust port?

Jesper what is the advantage of the dust panel option? It looks like a panel with one 4" and one 2.5" port. And the website describes that you have to change the internal hose depending on which one you want to use. I don't think many people make a decision to switch back and forth between configurations for dust collection. Usually you have one or the other and stick with it. Maybe, one might start with 2.5" on this saw. And upgrade their DC to 4" later on. But this is a one time decision. And would require a one time modification to the saw. Wouldn't it be easier to get the saw with the standard 4" port option and just add an after market reducer for a few bucks? I am assuming that what I read is correct and that it comes with a 4" port standard. What am I missing that makes the dust panel a good option? - Kevin

[jkristia]

krogers, I just ordered the dust port and it will take 1 - 2 weeks before they get it so I can't comment on that yet, but I decoded to order it to get a quick connect or the hose since I'm moving my saw around. I ordered the 4 - 2.5" reducer from Rockler, but it doesnt fit neither the saws port nor my shopvac - so that was a wate of money (+ shipping ).
I just measured the distance the motor is hanging out from the back, and it is 10" from the back of the saw, so the 4 inches you can gain in the wall will hel psome, but still not let you push it all the way to the wall (obviously)

Jesper

[tung tied]

Can you place the two fixed casters on the rear, and swivel casters on the front? This may allow you to push it straight back.

[sylbo]

I've taken classes at my local Woodcraft (Jacksonville, FL) where I've used the SawStop. It certainly performs along with the best saws out there. I recently bought a new Unisaw because I wanted a cabinet saw and liked the new design features over the "saw" features of the SawStop. However, it was neck and neck between the Unisaw and the SawStop right down to the final decision.

I just wish SawStop would be more reasonable about making the technology available throughout the industry.

[crokett]

I just wish SawStop would be more reasonable about making the technology available throughout the industry.

So do a lot of other people. Careful though, you are getting as close to a religious argument as you can have in woodworking.

[Uncle Cracker]

I just wish SawStop would be more reasonable about making the technology available throughout the industry.

But that's their "hook". It might be the more compassionate thing to do, but it would be marketing suicide, methinks... Sooner or later, a competitive product will emerge (probably right after the patent expires).

[crokett]

But that's their "hook". It might be the more compassionate thing to do, but it would be marketing suicide, methinks... Sooner or later, a competitive product will emerge (probably right after the patent expires).

Actually the inventor first tried to license it to the existing tool companies, but at absurdly high percentages. When that didn't work he tried to get laws passed to require them to use his invention. When that didn't work he started his own tool company.