Anyone Use Hide Glue?

[phrog]

I just saw that Titebond now offers a premixed Liquid Hide Glue. Just wondering if anyone has tried this and how it is different from regular hide glue. Can it be used for building musical instruments? I'm thinking of trying a guitar for the first time and have read that you should use hide glue. I really hate the idea of mixing, heating, smelling, etc. the real thing and thought this Titebond might be a viable alternative. Any opinions?
Richard

[wardprobst]

I use hot hide a lot in our business. I think if you try it, you will enjoy working with it. If you need help let me know. The cold stuff is not as suitable for instruments according to most techs I know.
Best,
DP

[phrog]

I use hot hide a lot in our business. I think if you try it, you will enjoy working with it. If you need help let me know. The cold stuff is not as suitable for instruments according to most techs I know.
Best,
DP

Thanks for the info wardprobst.
Richard

[tseavoy]

In our high school shop (way back then when schools taught you how to do things), all gluing was done using hide glue. As far as I know, it has never failed if the use is for interior things. You could glue boards on edge and never be able to see the joint. It is easy to use -- no mixing.

Tom on Marrowstone


Lawyer -- n. A person skilled in circumventing the law.

[luteman]

While I have no direct experience with the Titebond brand liquid hide glue,I can tell you based on 35 years experience building & repairing stringed instruments,hot, freshly mixed granular hide glue is a superior product to the pre-mix variety which contains urea among other additives needed to keep it in it's liquid state. Thus, hot hide glue is stronger and more moisture resistant than the liquid variety. Dry hide glue granules come in a variety of strengths and physical characteristics depending on their intended use.

[scmhogg]

Richard,

Use it hot. The first time you do a rub joint you will be sold. Veneering with a hammer is also the easiest IMHO.

I have an old cast iron double pot that holds the glue temperature well. I use an old steam iron, held upside down in a vise as my hotplate.

Steve

[phrog]

Thanks guys for all the replies. Guess you've sold me on trying the real thing. I'll be buying the double pot and hot plate soon.
Richard

[wardprobst]

Richard,
Here's a tech tip from a friend of mine.
http://www.spurlocktools.com/id57_hot_hide_glue.htm
It's pretty good advice though I still prefer my Hold Heet glue pot with the copper liner. The pot he suggests above will do a lot of small jobs and more. Email me if you need to set up for bigger jobs and I'll try to help.
DP

[luteman]

For small gluing jobs, I use an electric baby bottle warmer. For somewhat larger jobs, I use an electric teapot with an appropriately sized mason jar to hold the glue. Both of these warmers I got at my local thrift store. Total cost was under $3.00 for each one. They last for years if you always remember to keep water in them as they will burn out if left to heat dry. Hope this helps!

[phrog]

Richard,
Here's a tech tip from a friend of mine.
http://www.spurlocktools.com/id57_hot_hide_glue.htm
It's pretty good advice though I still prefer my Hold Heet glue pot with the copper liner. The pot he suggests above will do a lot of small jobs and more. Email me if you need to set up for bigger jobs and I'll try to help.
DP

Thanks Dale for the link (it answered a lot of my questions) and also for the advice. Hopefully, my jobs are going to be small since I'm just starting a guitar.
Richard

[phrog]

Again, thanks to wardprobst, luteman, scmhogg, and tseavoy for their opinions, advice, suggestions, and offers to help. That's what I love about this site - everyone willing to help any way they can.
Richard

[wardprobst]

Thanks Dale for the link (it answered a lot of my questions) and also for the advice. Hopefully, my jobs are going to be small since I'm just starting a guitar.
Richard

Here's another more appropriate for you link
http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luth.../hideglue.html
One of the better guitar sites on the net IMO.
DP

[LJR]

I have used the premixed liquid hide glue for about a year now with no complaints and no problems. It can be reversed and the piece can be reglued successfully (I make enough mistakes that I can attest to that).

I have used hot hide glue but I found it "bothersome" to me to add urea to the melted glue depending on the termperature of the shop and the wood. When hot melt glue starts to gel you better have everything in place, because the "open time" is over. If the shop and wood is cool enough it can gel immediately if there's no urea in the mix.

With the premix liquid hide glue I've had no issues with that at all and the glue joints turn out stronger than the wood around them, which is all I'm after. I haven't even turned my hot melt glue pot on for months now.

[phrog]

I have used the premixed liquid hide glue for about a year now with no complaints and no problems. It can be reversed and the piece can be reglued successfully (I make enough mistakes that I can attest to that).

I have used hot hide glue but I found it "bothersome" to me to add urea to the melted glue depending on the termperature of the shop and the wood. When hot melt glue starts to gel you better have everything in place, because the "open time" is over. If the shop and wood is cool enough it can gel immediately if there's no urea in the mix.

With the premix liquid hide glue I've had no issues with that at all and the glue joints turn out stronger than the wood around them, which is all I'm after. I haven't even turned my hot melt glue pot on for months now.

LJR, How do you reverse the premixed glue - heat, moisture, combination?
Richard

[LJR]

I use water and a hand held hot air "gun" to get the glue to "let go". It works the same as the hot melt hide glue does.