LOML says Drawer too Tall.. Women...!

[SARGE..g-47]

The foxy lady paid a surprise visit to my shop yesterday. She noticed the drawer sitting on the assembly talbe and the next thing I heard coming from her lips was.... Jjjj--- Tttt--------... what were you thinking. That drawer is way too tall".....

I told her it was not really that heavy and to walk over and pick it up. After she did... she went up the stairs with much haste. The good news is I heard her laughing all the way.. The bad news is I heard the door being locked at the top.

That's why I keep canned goods.. extra clothes and essentials stocked in the back shop....

[radhak]

Okay, I'll bite : what is it? Is it a real drawer, and is it as tall as it looks?

[lebomike]

Looks like about 7 drawers to me. Check the grain of the wood.

[TB Roye]

I want to see the Dovetail jig for that drawer. Also want to see the cabinet it is going in.

Funny, my LOML would probabl say and do the same thing. It looks like 7 drawers to me.

Tom

[Ed62]

That's funny, Sarge. I hope you have a phone down there.

Ed

[footprintsinconc]

at least he has internet connection, he can keep giving us updates as the situation progresses

[SARGE..g-47]

I want to see the Dovetail jig for that drawer. Also want to see the cabinet it is going in.

Funny, my LOML would probabl say and do the same thing. It looks like 7 drawers to me.

Tom

SIX DRAWERS stacked on top of Each other. I stacked them edge to edge to check to see if there was any discrepancy in the dimensions which there wasn't. They were just sitting there waiting for a victim I suppose. I have never purposely set up ambushes in VN that went so well.

Along comes "the Foxy Lady" and when you first walk in the door from the basement to the shop.. it is about 15 feet. I suppose they looked like one big drawer to her and the response. That's why I told her to go pick up "the Drawer". When she did the top drawer immediately separated and she sat it back down and headed back up the stairs..

As I said the good news is I could hear her laughing all the way. We constantly kid each other and this was a "one-up" in my favor. You think I will ever forget and not remind her of the "dah" moment. Probably not.... But she will counter jab and you can take that to the bank.

The good news we're still having fun after all these years. And as far as I'm concerned... it ain't quitting time.

Here's the jig you requested to see.... one Cool jig...

[SARGE..g-47]

Missed the picture of the cool jig, didn't I. And don't tell her or she will call be stupid. So I am.. I just don't like to give up the "one-up" so easily.

[footprintsinconc]

hand cut!!!! wow, i dont know when the day will come when i can hand cut one of those!

[footprintsinconc]

john,

i see the drawer frame in one of the pics in the background, and cant help notice that the back of the dresser is open just like the front. why isnt it solid?

thanks,

[SARGE..g-47]

john,

i see the drawer frame in one of the pics in the background, and cant help notice that the back of the dresser is open just like the front. why isnt it solid?

thanks,

All you need to close the back Omar, is a solid piece of 1/4" poplar or birch ply cut to size. I lay two coats of shellac on my backer as I do the inner drawers. That is optional and up to the individual.

The back panel is the last thing that goes on the chest to give you as much open area as possible to work details inside. Details include drawer slide adjustment to align the guides.. etc. When all else is said and done.. the back panel fits inside a 1/4" rabbet already cut on the back frame so it fits in flush. Tack it in.. use a brad gun.. however.

At that point all fine tuning has been done.. finish has been applied.. rubbed out and was applied and buffed. Then the back-board gets attached as she is ready to leave the creator's hands and go in the hands of the intendee or intendee's for actual use for hopefully several hundred years.

Regards...

[pierhogunn]

you hand-cut those?

your Kung-Fu is strong Master Sarge...

my kung-fu is still trying to read my tape measure properly

[footprintsinconc]

thanks john, the back being open during construction is really helpful. got to keep that in mind when i make one of those.

[SARGE..g-47]

you hand-cut those?

your Kung-Fu is strong Master Sarge...

my kung-fu is still trying to read my tape measure properly

Thanks Dan.. I learned to cut em about 35 years ago with a cheap Buck Bros. back saw. Didn't see jigs in those days except in furniture factories. I have progressed from the saw to a gent's saw.. a Japanese dozuki and then an LN Independence DT saw which I used only once.

Back to "old trusty" which is a relatively cheap Irwon 19 pt. extra fine pull saw with a re-enforced back rib. The LN DT was a great push saw.. but I sold it for $100 recently as nothing gives me more control than that cheap Irwin at $1 a tooth point. It is a heavy-weight at an affordable price IMO.

The drawers are only DT'ed on the front as I see no need to do rears that won't show unless it is a period piece. I don't do period pieces anymore as that was my first wive's bag and she has them all at this point in her exclusive home at Atlanta Country Club. That's the best place for them.

96 pins and 96 tails as the 240 individual box joints on the rear are TS cut with a jig I built and a Freud SBO8X box joint set. Just purchased the box joint set and it is worth every penny if you do a lot of box joints. I don't care for dado sets... but this this set leaves a cut you don't have to touch with clean up. Perfect design from Freud IMO.

Regards...

[SARGE..g-47]

thanks john, the back being open during construction is really helpful. got to keep that in mind when i make one of those.

Just as a tip Omar.. I don't attach the top in the shop. Splines are cut inside the chest innter to accept "figure 8" hold downs to allow for top expansion. But... the top goes on after the piece see's the final resting place.

That allows you to transport the carcass without the weigth of the top and just something else to catch a corner of a door twisting the carcas through to get it home. You leave the drawers out and put them into place latter also to keep weight down and them sliding out with the slightest tilt.

Once the carcass is in place.. you drop on the top that already has the figure 8"s added and positioned in the shop. Then you just turn them on the screw that attaches so the tab will silde in the spline already cut inside the carcass. If you ever move and have to transport.. the top comes off the same way for convenience.

Hope that is a thoughful tip...