Bullseye!

[Schleeper]

I made a test cut on a scrap 2x4 I had laying around, after changing the blade on my SCMS. Here's a picture of the piece I cut off.

When a used postage stamp has a cancellation that's perfectly centered on the stamp, collectors say that it's been "socked on the nose." It makes the stamp more collectible, and thus, more valuable.

Maybe I should list this block of wood on eBay!

[cabinetman]

Looks like a fingerprint from the Jolly Green Giant. Ebay might be a good idea. Start with a "Buy Now" of $250, and see what the bids do.
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[Schleeper]

C-Man, you obviously haven't sold anything on eBay. It's customary to list it with a "Buy It Now" price of $1, and a shipping cost of $249.

[SARGE..g-47]

I go in the box stores 2-3 times a week, John. Out of every new bundle of southern yellow pine lumber you will one or two that way usually. Start watching of them and buy them as you see em. Set em aside and when you accumulate about 20 of them.. flatten the round-over on one side and glue em up face to face (wide side to wide side).

Makes a pretty stable work-bench top that will have little movement and will last longer than you if it is southern pine.

[Pappy]

That is cuorious, Sarge. 4x4 treated post 8' or less are often made from peel centers. that ias the remains of a log that was 'peeled' for veneer. These are the most likely to twist or warp.

[SARGE..g-47]

I typed about 30 minutes with 4 paragraphs of detail on why I use them in given circumstances, Pappy. When I entered the post.. I got a Internet failed to communicate. 30 minutes lost and it's 1:27 AM in Atlanta.

Again.. and I will be more brief. If you have further questions.. ask and I will answer sometime tomorrow as I just got out of the shop and I'm going to bed.

Several years ago the question came up and as you, I have always been taught to avoid "boxed centers" as they will always cup or split at the end. Someone questioned that theory, so I decided to do an experiment. I got a few after I found them straight on the rack. I would place them face to face and place 3/16" stickers between and clamp the lenght. Kept on doing that till I had enough to build an assembly talbe.

Once I did and the studs had acclimated and dryed, I took them from the clamps and face glue them. The assembly table didn't move in over a year, so I made another one in the same manner. A year latter.. I built a work-bench top from them in the same manner for a neighbor. That was two years ago and it has not moved at all. My work-bench top has moved and I intend to build one the same way as soon as I clear the back-log of current projects.

Now.. would I use "boxed centers" for furniture. No.. as I have always been taught that they will cup as you probalby have. If I end up with anything with a boxed center in furniture grade stock.. I just rip the outer sap-wood to the heart and throw the pith away. I won't take the chance with high grade furniture even though I am not convinced it will do so in all cases.

I just stumbled across something from curiousity. If the wood was properly dry and got to the shelf straight. Pre-caution taken to clamp.. sticker and throughly dry properly.. I have no hesitation to use boxed center yellow pine in face to face glue up. I like to use it even though I would not use it stand alone or when edge glued even for shop tables, etc. Been there and done that and 'boxed centers" will slap you under those circumstances.

So.. I'm going to bed. If you get the time.. try it to see what your opinion is after you try it. I suspect the face to face glue up is what has stabilized it.. but I don't have any scientific clue if that is why the work-bench down the street has not had to be flattened in over two years?

But.. I'm going to build myself one as mine is getting terrilbly ratty...

[reddog552]

Kants

A couple years ago my brother harvested his 60 acres Oak Maple & alot of pine.Hes building his dream home, I got about 100 oak & maple kiln dried kants, not sure about the spelling, the center which cannot be cut into dimential lumber.They were all diffrent sizes 2"-3" thick 4"-5" wide up to 16' long .I used these to make Base, chair rail moulding,I was able to resaw and bend it .Its been stable for years, has loads of unique grain.Im going to use the last of them for chair and table legs. I didnt think of using it for a bench or table top,Wow that would have been a thought,my loml has told me my next home project Dinning room table& chairs.

[Pappy]

The article I got the info from was specifically talking about 8' and shorter treated 4x4's. The problem could easily be because of the excessive moisture content. I had never heard of the problem before. Quarter sawn lumber has the grain running face to face and is generally considered to be the most stable.

[rja]

I agree with Pappy. Wood that I have purchased in the past that is cut from the pith of the log has warped and twisted to uselessness, except for firewood, it being so unstable.

[SARGE..g-47]

The article I got the info from was specifically talking about 8' and shorter treated 4x4's. The problem could easily be because of the excessive moisture content. I had never heard of the problem before. Quarter sawn lumber has the grain running face to face and is generally considered to be the most stable.

And I believe that the majority of warped lumber happened because of moisture content also. Kiln drying is not what I consider the "Holy Grail" and especially so with pressure treat. When they pop a bundle, you have somewhat dry lumber on the outside of the bundle, depending on a turn-over time at a given source as the box stores. But the studs get wetter as you go to center or bundle and with pressure treat.. I have seen them acutally dripping wet.

But.. I will say that about furniture grade stock also. If not properly dryed and stacked right at the source.. it will warp there. If it's not straight when you chose it, it will never be straight regarless of how you acclimate it latter. And that's why I spend a lot of time milling through my source as I have heard you say you do.

The topic has arisen with using wide boards, especially in flat-sawn. I have used up to 14" wide at this point with no problem. Some will rip and re-glue. I personally think that if it was cured properly to begin with.. and you find it straight.. take measures to keep it stable until you use it.. then it will remain that way.

Strangely enough.. some of the best results I have with glue-ups with flat-sawn is using boards that have almost horizon lines (sapwood from the outer portion of a large tree) in lieu of radial lines as you find in rift sawn. And again.. I have no sceintific answer as to why.

Regards...

[SARGE..g-47]

A couple years ago my brother harvested his 60 acres Oak Maple & alot of pine.Hes building his dream home, I got about 100 oak & maple kiln dried kants, not sure about the spelling, the center which cannot be cut into dimential lumber.They were all diffrent sizes 2"-3" thick 4"-5" wide up to 16' long .I used these to make Base, chair rail moulding,I was able to resaw and bend it .Its been stable for years, has loads of unique grain.Im going to use the last of them for chair and table legs. I didnt think of using it for a bench or table top,Wow that would have been a thought,my loml has told me my next home project Dinning room table& chairs.

A note of caution on using your boxed on furniture as I have already metioned. I suspect the fact that your stock is 2"-3" thick is one reason it has stayed stable. But.. I would not use it if you re-saw it down to 4/4 or 3/4for furniture use. As I already mentioned.. when I get this situation I rip to heart-wood and throw away the pith. I have never seen a thin board "boxed" that would not warp alone or with edge glueing.

What I use is "boxed" that is thicker than what would end up in furniture grade and the pith completely surrounded. And it was straight when I found it. I would not re-saw a stud in half as to sever the box. It would probably cup within an hour, especially if the center is wetter than the out-side, which would be normal in thicker stock.

I use it only in construction of shop grade tables etc. and the 3 1/2" widths and 1 1/2" thicknesses are face glued which would resist the cup that is has a natural tendencey to do with moderate to heavy climate changes from season to season.

Again.. I do not recommend you use it for furniture grade projects where it stands alone or edge glueing.. I know what will happen just as Pappy and RJA mentioned.

Hope I'm clear on that point as I do not want your family to sue me 5 years from now over what "was" supposed to be their heir-loom for info you mis-interpretted. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..

Regards...