Odd Car Question

[Pappy]

I need to build a trailer from an old pick-up bed ('65 Chevy bed sides with a '72 Chevy steel floor). The frame will be custum fabricated 4" channel iron. The question concerns the axle.

Trailer axle assemblies are available in set lengths normally. Custom lengths can be ordered, but at a substantial cost. Using a gutted Chevy pickup rear end would be easy but clunky looking and require the bed to be higher than I want. My thought is the hit the 'yards' with a tape measure and check the rear axles on some front wheel drive cars since they are essentilly a simple straight axle.

If I find one the right length and hang it from 3500# springs will it handle the weight or bow/bend under the load? I can't find any specs on line for either lenghts or load ratings.

[Daryl]

I don't know of any FWD cars that use a solid rear axle as they have independent rear suspension using swing arms. I can't remember the details, but there was a model of Rambler that had the proper parts to make a trailer.

[charger1966]

1994-1996 olds cutlass ciera has the solid axle you are looking for. The spindles and the brake drums are solid to the Axel.

good luck
Lance

[eezlock]

odd car question

Pappy, sounds as if you are going to build a trailer that is heavier than
you have anticipated. If you want to build your own home made trailer
I would recommend that you buy the axel and wheels from a trailer
supplier....like Northern Tools. All that steel bed, floor, fenders, etc.,
all from an old pick up truck is one thing that will work...but will also
work the heck out of you as well ! I learned some of those lessons the hard way as well...finally sold that trailer( home built) and glad of it! My next one will be a lot lighter and easier to manuver around by my self! eezlock

[JSUPreston]

I know this won't help much in this discussion, but please be careful with homemade trailers. We were given one years ago by my wife's step-grandmother. We cleaned it up, replaced the wood, rewired, new lights and almost brand new tires (got slightly used Goodyears real cheap).

The trailer was 4x8, made out of angle iron and had a pickup front end for the axle. Every thing was welded solid and appeared in decent enough shape for the little bit of hauling we had to do. Mind you, we were pulling this thing behind a Nissan Sentra with a class 3 hitch that I had installed.

One day, fully loaded while slowing to a stop at the bottom of a large hill, we heard a loud pop, and everything shook. I pulled over, and the axle on the passenger side had sheared off inside the housing. If I had gotten back up to speed, I have no doubt that it would've killed me and the wife, who was 8 months along.

So, back on topic, I think the right this is the solid real axle like what you are talking about, but please be careful.

[Pappy]

Pappy, sounds as if you are going to build a trailer that is heavier than you have anticipated. If you want to build your own home made trailer I would recommend that you buy the axel and wheels from a trailer supplier....like Northern Tools. All that steel bed, floor, fenders, etc.,
all from an old pick up truck is one thing that will work...but will also
work the heck out of you as well!

eezlock

I know I could build it lighter, but it wouldn't match the '65 Chevy tow truck. For the tires to be centered in the wells I need a 63 1/2" faceplate to face plate axle. I can fudge a little either way but the premade axles aren't even close.

Preston, this isn't my first try. Built a 14 1/2' enclosed to haul my bikes when I was drag racing. The frame will be mig welded solid at every seam. Your story is another reason to stay away from standard rear axles.

[JSUPreston]

Because of my story, I will probably never use a homemade trailer again. I wouldn't mind a custom to match the truck. However, since I have a truck, I don't need a trailer very often.

[Tamarack]

Several years ago a friend helped me build one that I was very satisfied with. We took a mobile home axle (The type with 15" wheels and a 5-bolt Ford wheel pattern) and determined how far apart we wanted the spring centers-then we sectioned out the middle of the very stout pipe axle with a pipe cutter and welded it back together with a sleeve inside to keep it straight while welding. Didn't even touch the spring perches. Used 2" heavywall box tubing for the frame with 2" angle crossmembers on about 2' spacing, and had a fine trailer. Every time I took it out someone would ask me if I wanted to sell it, and in a weak moment I did-have regretted it ever since .
Paul