RV/Travel Trailer help?

[Sam Conder]

BT3Central members never cease to amaze me with their knowledge so instead of searching out a "RVCentral.com" I thoulght I'd ask here first...

Adele and I are starting to shop for a travel trailer. Nothing we intend to purchase next week or even next month, mind you. We have found that vacationing with two boys, ages 9 & 10.5 is VERY expensive because we have to either rent a house or condo because all of us staying in a motel room IS NOT AN OPTION.

Anywhoo... we went to an RV show this weekend and kinda got an idea of what we like. Now I'm trying to determine what we can pull with our SUV. There are so many weights thrown around (dry weight, gross vehicle weight, hitch weight, ad nauseum) that I have absolutely no freakin' idea what to look at.

To compound issues, our SUV is a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer EXT. I know it has a I6, but beyond that I'm clueless. It was a salvage, apparently stolen off a new car lot and rolled. It only had a couple thousand miles on it when we got it. We have had the frame alignment laser checked (Adele is an insurance agent with connections with body shops) and they say the frame was absolutely untouched by the accident and is no reason for concern. Problem is that since it is a salvage, I have no idea if the VIN number is the original and if the salvage lot that did the re-work replaced the rear axle, etc. The short of it is I have no idea what the axle ratio is and that apparently has a lot to do with it's towing capacity.

So... anybody have any suggestions for the following questions:

1. Is there an easy way to determine the axle ratio on my Trailblazer?
2. Exactly what weight specification should I look at when choosing a travel trailer?
3. Exactly what towing specification do I need to consider about my Trailblazer?
4. What is a realistic weight of the items we would be carrying in the TT? (Groceries, clothing, camp toys, etc)
5. Tell me about anti-sway, weight distributing hitches and brake controllers.

I'm sure there is another place to ask all this somewhere on the 'Net, but I trust you all already!

[DLyon]

Here's a great site

I visit this site often, though we don't have a camper yet.

http://www.rv.net/forum/

[TB Roye]

Sam

You are probably a little weak in the tow rig department. Most travel trailers require at least a V8 and a heavy duty suspension and trailer hitch. Your rig is probably ok for folding Tent trailer or small fiberglass one under 20ft. Size of the vehicle make a big difference as far a towing safety goes. look on the site recommended it is a good one. LOML has a 2004 Expedition with the HD towing package we can tow 8000lbs. but because of the wheelbase we are limited to 24/25 ft. in trailer length. I have studied the dynamics of this and you have to be careful. Some say you can go over the limit and a lot of people do but is it safe.

Tom

[TheRic]

Sam not a RV person, so I can't help much in that direction. Towing trailers with a truck / SUV that I can help with.

Does your SUV have a towing package? Any hitch on it already? What size / class?

When figuring out what you can tow, there is a difference if your going to tow something 1 mile down the road on level ground top speed 35 miles. VS taking a trip across the US.

A LARGE surface area on a trailer can cause problems as much as the weight of the trailer.

[crokett]

Sam,

I can't help with the technical stuff but I can say that growing up we did all our camping in a tent trailer (also called a popup). The obvious disadvantage is when you get to where you are going you have to set it up and you are a bit more exposed to the elements. Advantages are lighter weight, generally cheaper to own and operate, and you get a big flat surface on top to haul stuff. In our case it was bikes and a canoe.

[Sam Conder]

Adele + pop-up = divide by 0

[mschrank]

I also cannot help with technical stuff...that rv.net forum is probably the place to get your answers. My dad (big time RV'r) frequents the site as often as I'm on here, and says it's a good one.

As far as trailer types, you might want to consider a "hybrid." I first saw one last summer on a camping trip (we rented a motorhome) to Mt. Rainier. They are kind of combination between a traditional hard sided travel trailer and a pop up. Lighter weight than a traditional, but with a lot of room when the beds are folded out.

I get the idea that RV'ing is kind of like wood turning or hand planes...once you get started you'll soon be consumed

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I get the idea that RV'ing is kind of like wood turning or hand planes...once you get started you'll soon be consumed

I think the poster is right on track here.

I think a lot of folks get into RVing with the thought of saving money. I think for most folks it probably ends up being more expensive than traditional hotels/rental properties. RVing is a *lifestyle* thing more than a savings thing. I would imagine you will find yourself taking many more long weekend trips to areas that you normally would not visit, ie beach. The sense of community and the friendships you foster while on the trips is of great value to most RVers. Now if you are buying an RV and are retirement age you can get your economic value out of the unit. But for annual family vacations and a few weekends it is not economically money savers in general unless you go used tow behind or pop up unit.
My parents lucked into their dream RV about 4 years ago. My Dad knew he was retiring in a couple years so they started kind of looking around. They have always had a 5th wheel but knew they wanted a full blown RV. My Dad is a horse breeder and was selling a horse to this guy who was loaded (ill gotten money we believe). He had an RV in the barn and Dad inquired about how he liked it. He bought it in Canada for >$250,000 and NEVER USED IT ONE TIME! It was 2 years old. He told my Dad he would sell it to him for $125,000! Dad was on that quicker than me on a $60 Bessey Cabinet Clamp Kit! They have taken a few 2-3 week vacations in the 3 years they have had it. Dad will retire next year and they plan on month long trips at that point. They come up here to PA from NC and stay a lot as well.
One thing to look at is the cost of the unit, the cost of funds tied up in the unit versus what you would earn if invested and using funds for hotels/rental units, the increased cost of gas, the cost of insurance for the physical damage to the unit (liability is automatically extended from the towing vehicle), storage costs, state taxes and inspections, and up keep. Also a biggie is rental spots. They are EXPENSIVE. Check it out online. Also note that many of the better/larger camp sites are being bought by large conglomerates and being privatized. You have to buy membership to rent in a lot of the big camp sites in the nation, sort of like a time share thing. A real PITA! I will say again, site rental is EXPENSIVE!
Again, it is a lifestyle thing. If you want lots of small trips and enjoy mountains, lakes, beaches and areas typical of RVing the QUALITY of your vacations may be much better. It sounds like at this point with the ages of your boys that may be the case. In 5 years they may not be as found of the camping lifestyle as the rental property / hotel lifestyle.

[ragswl4]

Be very careful when and if you go to an RV dealer. They are interested in sales and some of those folks will sell you a trailer that may be too much for your SUV. You should be able to go to any Chevy dealership and find out the towing capacity (weight) of your SUV. As stated earlier, it won't be a lot. You have to consider passengers, fuel, stuff packed in the SUV and the max weight of the trailer. All that added up should be less than the max tow weight of the SUV. Always remember, its not how much you can tow, its how much you can "STOP". If the SUV does not have a TOW PACKAGE, I think you are asking for problems down the road.

I have a 2003 Ford F-250 Diesel, make tow weight 20,000 lbs. I tow a 5th wheel trailer, dry weight 6800lbs, max 11,000 lbs. Tows easy, stops great and I don't want anything heavier. I want to be able to control and stop the rig without being stressed.

Good luck, I think there are travel trailers (tt) out there that you may be able to tow, but go as light as you can.

[cabinetman]

I can only help you with some general tips having towed a race car on a trailer for several years. I bought a used Chevy SUV that didn't have an owners manual. Went to the dealer and they referred me to a company that specializes in duplicate owners manuals. If you have or can get an owners manual, it will have a lot of details about your specific vehicle that will be of help.

For general information, the towing vehicle should outweigh the towed load.

A weight distributing hitch changes the fulcrum point of the trailer so that the tongue weight doesn't push down the back of your SUV. Very helpful for a level ride.

The trailer should have it's own brakes, if it doesn't, get 'em. The two basic types are brakes that are actuated by the towing vehicle by the braking system (brake switch). It has an actuator with adjustment on how much braking the trailer will do, plus an emergency actuator (usually a lever).
Or, there are surge brakes that get activated by the stopping motion of the towing vehicle. They are momentum actuated I guess would be the best way to describe them.

You might go online to Consumer Reports as I think they do the towing tests with SUV's. You can "Google" the exact model of your SUV and get all kinds of cool info.

If you don't plan to use the trailer that much, it might be cheaper and more convenient to rent one for those times. Then you don't have one sitting around for 351 days.

When we had our house tented, we rented a 30ft RV (self contained). It was a Ford cab/RV. We parked it on our property and it was just great. Of course we had two German Shepherds and three cats to enjoy it with us.

Either the owners manual or the Chevy dealer will help you with what your SUV will be safe with. I've been very lucky with the stupid stuff I got away with.

[gsmittle]

I skimmed the other posts in this thread, so I might be repeating what has already been said.

The biggest number of concern is the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The total weight of the trailer, supplies (water weighs a TON), hitch assembly, batteries, passengers, tow vehicle, etc. should not be bigger than the tow vehicle's GVWR. There is a weight tag in the trailer somewhere, usually in the closet.

Also on the passenger side outside near the front of the trailer you'll find the Gross Weight Rating (GWR) for the trailer. That's the maximum weight you can have on the trailer ONLY when loaded for a trip. There's usually an axle weight rating, too. If the trailer has more than one axle, divide the total GWR by the number of axles. The number you get should be below the axle weight rating.

Dry weight theoretically means the weight of the trailer with empty tanks, no propane, etc. HOWEVER, that number is generic for the model of trailer, and if yours has even a few options (such as a refrigerator, microwave, etc.) you'll be over the dry weight.

The best way I've found to determine the actual weight of the entire rig (tow vehicle, trailer, supplies, and passengers) is to weigh it on a truck scale. If the scale operator will let you, weigh the empty trailer (to get a true dry weight), then the trailer loaded for a trip, then the entire rig loaded for a trip.

Personally, I was surprised to find that my Suburban and "lite" trailer loaded for a two-week trip was right at 12,000 lbs!

Oh, I almost forgot: the hitch has a weight rating, too. Usually the tongue weight of the trailer (properly loaded) will be around 10% of the total trailer weight. Too light on the tongue makes for fishtailing, and too heavy makes for steering problems.

Realize that I used to rv a lot a few years ago, until my back went out and we sold our trailer. My memory might be pretty rusty.

rvnet is a very good source. I used to have a link to a guy who would answer rv questions by email, but I lost the link when this blatzafratzin' Winderz machine blew up.

Happy motoring!

g.

[Thom2]

Is there an easy way to determine the axle ratio on my Trailblazer?

The Owner's Manual will often list available ratios for Automatic and Manual Trans. They are also normally listed on the Options Tag often located in the console or glove compartment. In regards to being a salvage title, I highly doubt this will have any affect on the axles. Being that it's 4wd, any change in ratio on the rear axle would require replacement of the front axle as well. 4wd's have to have matching ratio's front and rear.

Exactly what weight specification should I look at when choosing a travel trailer?

According to quick stats that I found ---
Towing capacity: 6,300 lbs.

Exactly what towing specification do I need to consider about my Trailblazer?

The biggest consideration is the Towing capacity, another big consideration (probably bigger than capacity IMO) is the wheelbase and brakes on this vehicle. While brakes are factored into the manufacturer's suggested capacity, wheelbase normally isn't because of so many variables induced by the towed unit. My Dad pulls a 23' behind his Dakota, and while the vehicle handles it 'reasonably well', he's pushing the extremes of his limit due to the wheel base. Another big factor is going to be the hitch and equipment you choose to tie this trailer to your vehicle, I'll explain that below.

What is a realistic weight of the items we would be carrying in the TT? (Groceries, clothing, camp toys, etc)

Whatever you have left after subtracting the empty weight of your trailer from your max capacity

Tell me about anti-sway, weight distributing hitches and brake controllers.

easier to quote this one .... (from: http://www.drawtite-hitches.com/WD/w...FU8KFQodSz91ng)

A weight distribution system provides a more level ride and greater steering and brake control.
Trailer weight distribution is accomplished by distributing the weight of the actual tongue connection to all tow vehicle and trailer wheels.
In addition to weight distribution you might also want sway control. Sway control helps dampen sway caused by traffic and crosswinds.

I highly recommend a weight-distributing hitch, they essentially eliminate the flex point at the ball and tie the frame of the trailer directly to the suspension of the tow vehicle by using spring bars. They make a HUGE improvement in ride quality and manueverability as well as braking.

Brake Controllers are pretty much standard equipment for anything over a utility trailer. My attitude in this department is to buy the best, then you'll be set to tow anything your vehicle can handle. IMO, these are more important than anything else, after all, if you can't pull it, it doesn't have to stop. Once you've got it going tho' ....

If you don't have an owner's manual, get one, they ussually have a section devoted to trailering and what the vehicle is capable of. Once you have your vehicle figured out, go spend some time at the RV places and ask LOTS of questions. Look for the guys that have answers, not the guys that are spouting off sales pitches, you'll know who they are.

Another big thing is to be sure to deal with someone that will let you take the camper for a decent drive before purchase, 2 nearly identical sized trailers can and will tow entirely different, the only way to know how it's gonna feel is to drag it behind.

[T-Bone]

Sam,

I, like you, got into a travel trailer after having kids and finding out that tent camping just wasn't going to work for us anymore. We started with a popup and loved it except it was a huge PITA to set up and take down (but it pulled great). Then we bought a hybrid and still have it and love it. In addition to the rv.net website (by far the most popular rv forum), also try www.hybridexplorer.com. I visit that site quite often in the summer and the folks there are very nice. I would compare the two websites similar to woodnet vs. bt3central. If you type in "towing capacity" to either of those forums, you will find plenty of reading. There are several things you need to check to see where your limiting factor will be - I can't remember all of them right now except that your GVWR can't be exceeded when you add up everything. I saw a post on one of those forums dedicated just to Trailblazer towing capacity. Then there are those that always post that they tow things that weight twice as much as their vehicles capacity and have never had a problem. I tend to be safe. I limited myself to 5,000 lb loaded on the trailer for my V8 Tundra.

On your other questions:

- I very, very highly recommend sway control and weight distributing hitch for safety. The one most recommended on the forums is the Equalizer (it does both). See www.equalizerhitch.com. It is expensive, however. I have a cheaper setup and it works fine but I wish I had the equalizer. If you want more info on my setup, I can send it to you.

- I also very, very highly recommend a good brake controller, again for safety. I originally bought a $50 cheapo brake controller and hated it (I had to constantly adjust the sensitivity for different driving conditions). Then I got the Prodigy, also the most recommended version on the forums. see http://www.tekonsha.com/prodig.html. This thing is awesome - don't even bother looking at anything else, IMHO.

With the above safety devices, I was ok with the LOML driving the Tundra towing the trailer from Denver to Helena when we moved because with the sway control and weight distribution and brake controller, you can barely tell that you are pulling anything and it is easy to keep everything under control.

Good luck and watch out. The camping bug is at least as potent as the woodworking bug. Get a membership to Camping World - you'll need it. www. campingworld.com. Also, we do all of our camping at small forest campgrounds that only cost about $15 per night so you can save money over a hotel (if you ignore that you just dropped $15,000 on the trailer). But that's not why we did it - we did it because sleeping in a camper in the forest is different than sleeping in a hotel by the highway. Cooking breakfast on a grill by the river is different than eating at the hotel greasy spoon. Sitting by the fire roasting marshmallows is different than watching TV in the room. We avoid the RV parks if we can for the same reasons plus they are very expensive for what you get, IMHO.

P.S. You're "Winter Hike" post has got me thinking about the camping season already. Need to start making a list of things to pack, places to go, available weekends, etc.

Travis

[Sam Conder]

Regarding axle ration... the 2005 Trailblazer EXT comes standard with a 3.42, but there are 3.73 and 4.10 options. I have no idea which one my truck is.

I have a manual, but it just tells me what the options are.

[TheRic]

Check your VIN number to find out. If Thom is correct on not changing the axles. I would suspect that the VIN is still the same.

Somewhere in the manual it should tell you what part of the VIN means what axle you you have and what the towing capacity is.