Tweet
So I don't know if this really qualifies as a "finished project." It is a jig that will hopefully allow me to finish another project (and other, future projects as well). 
I've been noodling this around for a while and I think I finally have a pretty universally usable mortising jig.
To use it, I slip it over the router table fence (which serves double duty as the table saw fence). I remove any play using the two thumb screws on the back (these push a piece of 3/8" BB against the aluminum fence). I lock these thumbscrews in position using the wing-nuts.
Next, I set the distance between the fence and the bit using a brass setup bar. I then squeeze one of the pieces I'll be mortising between the two alignment blocks (on front) and tighten the knobs. Now I can use the two round stops that sit on top of the fence to adjust the side to side motion (again using the brass setup bar).
Now I'm ready. I do the end-grain of the top and bottom of the frame by sliding them down into the bit and moving the jig back and forth. I then do the long grain of the two side pieces by alternately removing the two alignment blocks. I remove the right block and then do the appropriate mortises using the left block to maintain position and length. I then replace the right block and remove the left one and finish the last two mortises.
To remove and replace the alignment blocks without screwing-up the positioning I simply use a piece of the rail material as a gauge between the tight alignment block and the lose one.
When I'm done I simply machine up a floating tenon to fit the mortise and glue it up.
I know my explanation isn't as good as Niki's would be. But the jig works pretty slick. Perfect mortises every time.
I've been noodling this around for a while and I think I finally have a pretty universally usable mortising jig.
To use it, I slip it over the router table fence (which serves double duty as the table saw fence). I remove any play using the two thumb screws on the back (these push a piece of 3/8" BB against the aluminum fence). I lock these thumbscrews in position using the wing-nuts.
Next, I set the distance between the fence and the bit using a brass setup bar. I then squeeze one of the pieces I'll be mortising between the two alignment blocks (on front) and tighten the knobs. Now I can use the two round stops that sit on top of the fence to adjust the side to side motion (again using the brass setup bar).
Now I'm ready. I do the end-grain of the top and bottom of the frame by sliding them down into the bit and moving the jig back and forth. I then do the long grain of the two side pieces by alternately removing the two alignment blocks. I remove the right block and then do the appropriate mortises using the left block to maintain position and length. I then replace the right block and remove the left one and finish the last two mortises.
To remove and replace the alignment blocks without screwing-up the positioning I simply use a piece of the rail material as a gauge between the tight alignment block and the lose one.
When I'm done I simply machine up a floating tenon to fit the mortise and glue it up.
I know my explanation isn't as good as Niki's would be. But the jig works pretty slick. Perfect mortises every time.
Attached Files
. thanks in advance for the help and the post!
Comment