SMT Guide Service

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  • Black wallnut
    cycling to health
    • Jan 2003
    • 4715
    • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
    • BT3k 1999

    SMT Guide Service

    First you'll need to gather a few tools:
    1. slotted screwdriver or bit and handle
    2. 3/8" SAE socket and driver or ratchet, or nut driver
    Click image for larger version

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    Then it is time to get started:
    1. Double unplug saw (at outlet and built-in switched outlet)
    2. Blow off any saw dust
    3. Remove SMT right front base clamp screw (see next pic)

    So it looks like this:

    4. Slide SMT table forward off base
    5. Place SMt table on your work bench
    6. Note positions of the three eccentric screws and the one non-eccentric screw (silver one):

    7. Carefully remove locknuts and star washers
    8. gently pull the screws and guides off the bottom of the SMT
    9. Inspect each for wear

    In this pic you can see the wear I have on mine after years and years of use. I was able to turn mine around 180 to the unused side. I have tried to keep the base waxed with paste wax. Mine still had adjustment left in them but since I was tearing it apart I took this opportunity to spin them. I do not think you need to worry about mixing them up just as long as you end up with an A and B at each corner.

    In the next pics you can see the proper placement of each part

    Finally each should look like this pic sans the dust (pic was taken during disassembly on my saw)

    Notice in this pic the difference between the eccentric and non-eccentric screws

    Make sure you place them correctly on the table upon reassembly. The silver or non-eccentric goes in the right front location.

    Since the nuts are nylock self locking just snug until barely tight. I have found that if left at just snug you can turn the screws with a nut driver from the top of the table. In this condition your SMT may need re-adjustment slightly more often although I've not really noticed as before each large project I check SMT alignment and adjust if necessary. For reassembly leave them in this slightly loose condition and turn all of them so that they are at their farthest out adjustment. Carefully slide the SMT table back onto the base, verify all four captue the base as in the following pic/ drawing.

    Also note that the "tit" is on the lower and "notch" is on the upper. Refer to and study the above pics.

    Replace the SMT base clamp screw and check alignment. You did start with your SMT clamped to the rails, right? If it was in proper alignment before you disassembled it, that is to say your SMT base was parallel to the blade it should still be so, as long as you did not disturb the base with the right front screw removed. To adjust keep in mind that the right front is fixed, the left front and rear screw's only purpose is to remove side to side play, and all adjustment is done with the left rear screw. Again I have kept mine in a state of not tight but not loose so as to be able to use a nut driver to adjust from the top. Once you've adjusted the table so that the SMT fence is 90 to the blade as well as exactly lined up with the 0 indicator rechaek base parallelism per the owners manual or some other proven method.
    Donate to my Tour de Cure

    marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President

    Head servant of the forum

  • Black Mariah
    Handtools only
    • Jan 2018
    • 1

    I have just been going thru the maintenance and alignment of my SMT. I am NOT disagreeing with the orientation you show of how the black plastic Slides fit together and orient to the rail / channel of the SMT Base.

    However, for anyone else going through this (and expecting the owner's manual to be a source of truth), I want to point out that the parts explosion diagram on pg. 43 is either completely wrong or (at best) very misleading. As far as I can tell, the diagram shows Slides A & B (#25, #28) fitting together and oriented differently. Part of the problem is that the drawing of the Slides is only an approximation of what they really look like. I *think* the diagram is surely wrong. I tried to see what the diagram orientation would do -- but it yields a configuration where the guides don't have a channel / space to catch the lip on the track of the underlying SMT base.

    Click image for larger version

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