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After searching this site, and not being able to find an easy way to turn off the BT3*00 from the left side, I decided to post the very easy, very inexpensive, and quick solution I designed for mine. It is made from ¾” PVC pipe, elbows, a tee, and 2 short pieces of ¾” hardwood dowel. I did not glue the parts together, but they have a tight fit. If you prefer to use glue, please do, but make certain it will work (without modification), by dry fitting the assembly, and trying it before gluing.
When making it, I was concerned that the weight might be enough to trip the switch. It did not do that, but if the assembly is allowed to drop, after turning the saw on, the weight will be enough to trip the switch (off). Therefore I gently lower the assembly onto the switch plate after turning the saw on. I also made contact with the switch plate slightly on the upper half of the plate because making contact on the lower half would allow more leverage for the weight of the assembly to trip the switch. It would also be easy enough to add a compression spring to the under side of the switch plate, resulting in more pressure being needed in order to trip the switch. If you prefer to go that route, that’s entirely up to you. In the following pictures, you will notice that I used tees instead of elbows. That’s only because that’s what I had available in my leftover parts from another job. The tees will eventually be replaced with elbows, except for the one holding the short piece of PVC which makes contact with the switch plate. Following is a list of pieces, beginning with the top left, and ending with the top right (dimensions are not critical):
¾” PVC 90 degree elbow (shown as tee)
8 1/4” piece of ¾” PVC pipe
¾” PVC 90 degree elbow (shown as tee)
20 ½” piece of ¾” PVC pipe
¾” PVC 90 degree elbow (shown as tee)
5” piece of ¾” PVC pipe
¾” PVC tee (with 4” piece of ¾” PVC pipe to trip the switch)
2 ½” piece of ¾” PVC pipe
¾” PVC 90 degree elbow (shown as tee)
A short piece of ¾” hardwood dowel is attached with screws to the side plates of the saw for attaching the assembly. Don’t forget to drill pilot holes for the screws to eliminate splitting the dowel.
Now if you are in a position where you need to turn the saw off, but it’s difficult to reach the switch during a sawing operation, you can easily turn the saw off from the left side.
It has been suggested by another member, "bethere", that using tees instead of elbows on the bottom of the assembly would allow an extension to be inserted (in the case of cutting sheet goods, etc.)
When making it, I was concerned that the weight might be enough to trip the switch. It did not do that, but if the assembly is allowed to drop, after turning the saw on, the weight will be enough to trip the switch (off). Therefore I gently lower the assembly onto the switch plate after turning the saw on. I also made contact with the switch plate slightly on the upper half of the plate because making contact on the lower half would allow more leverage for the weight of the assembly to trip the switch. It would also be easy enough to add a compression spring to the under side of the switch plate, resulting in more pressure being needed in order to trip the switch. If you prefer to go that route, that’s entirely up to you. In the following pictures, you will notice that I used tees instead of elbows. That’s only because that’s what I had available in my leftover parts from another job. The tees will eventually be replaced with elbows, except for the one holding the short piece of PVC which makes contact with the switch plate. Following is a list of pieces, beginning with the top left, and ending with the top right (dimensions are not critical):
¾” PVC 90 degree elbow (shown as tee)
8 1/4” piece of ¾” PVC pipe
¾” PVC 90 degree elbow (shown as tee)
20 ½” piece of ¾” PVC pipe
¾” PVC 90 degree elbow (shown as tee)
5” piece of ¾” PVC pipe
¾” PVC tee (with 4” piece of ¾” PVC pipe to trip the switch)
2 ½” piece of ¾” PVC pipe
¾” PVC 90 degree elbow (shown as tee)
A short piece of ¾” hardwood dowel is attached with screws to the side plates of the saw for attaching the assembly. Don’t forget to drill pilot holes for the screws to eliminate splitting the dowel.
Now if you are in a position where you need to turn the saw off, but it’s difficult to reach the switch during a sawing operation, you can easily turn the saw off from the left side.
It has been suggested by another member, "bethere", that using tees instead of elbows on the bottom of the assembly would allow an extension to be inserted (in the case of cutting sheet goods, etc.)