BT3100 setup

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  • #16
    Man, need to check in more often. There were many, many others who posted the red line suggestion before I ever did, I just liked it so much I used a little Photoshop to make my signature.

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    • #17
      Here's the original that you're looking for

      Welcome stuartjs,

      Congratulations on the acquisition of your BT3100 Table Saw and welcome to the "family".

      One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the one before it, so you MUST keep them in sequence.
      Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

      Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.

      An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!

      A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more.

      I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

      When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

      Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate.

      Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

      And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

      Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes.

      The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult, if not impossible, to finish.

      Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.
      If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
      entire saw.

      Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

      Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

      Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

      You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/

      The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site).

      One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

      This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea.
      One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

      One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

      Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
      It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the groove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.
      Stop thinking why you can't and Start thinking how you CAN!
      Remember, SUCCESS comes in CANS!
      George

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      • #18
        We seem to have a small resurgence of new owners of late. It reminds me of how much this forum has changed over the years and how much it has remained the same. I am further reminded of some of the folks that simply are no longer with us like Gmack5 above and Monte; two of the finest members that have passed from this world.

        I am moving this thread to the "Best of Forum" and sticking it in memory of George. May his sole rest in peace!
        Last edited by Black wallnut; 01-27-2011, 09:11 PM.
        Donate to my Tour de Cure


        marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President

        Head servant of the forum

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Black wallnut View Post
          Not quite. Norm in Fujino generally gets the credit for being the first to post a picture of the red line and also the first to post what it is, but this was over on the old Ryobi forum. However I had independently came up with the same idea, only mine is yellow as that was the color of paint pen I had. I did not have a camera at the time so could not post pictures. Furthermore IIRC I "joined the club" before I painted my line, I'm not sure if Norm ever did "join."
          Thanks for the credit. I most certainly did "join the club"--that was what gave me the idea for the thin red line in the beginning; in fact, I have to confess I've joined more than once .
          I may have also been the first (or one of) to voice the idea of installing shim supports to prevent that inevitable failure (back in the day when it was necessary). SOW, I finally did a break-down and cleanout of my BT3000 just yesterday since it had been acting a bit tight; lots of gunk on the shim sliding surface, but after cleaning it's smooth as butter once again. I've been using it intermittently but rather roughly this year since I'm in the middle of replacing the siding and all trim on my house.
          ==========
          ". . . and only the stump, or fishy part of him remained."
          Green Gables: A Contemplative Companion to Fujino Township

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          • #20
            Shortly after I "joined the club" (about a month after I got the BT3000), it prompted me to make my own "ends"

            You can see the red line (LOML's nail polish) - AND the Shark guard.

            Click image for larger version

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            Downunder ... 1" = 25.4mm

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