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I added some drawers to my latest router table and another cabinet and figured I would document the steps here as there has been interest in 'progress projects' lately.
There were 5 drawers to build, 4 for the router cabinet (2 at 3-3/4" tall, 2 at 6-1/4" tall) and 1 for a one-off cabinet being made, so -- starting out with the pieces:
5 drawers to make,
1 @ 3-3/4T x 22D x 7-1/4W,
2 @ 3-3/4T x 22D x 20W and
2 @ 6-1/4T x 22D x 20W.
Note that the 3-3/4" and 6-1/4" drawer heights are based on how my dovetail jig is set up, these two measurements give even pin/tail reveals on both top and bottom of the dovetailed drawer corner. Your dovetail jig may well produce different results -- height of the drawer sides just need to be adjusted appropriately.
Dovetail cuts were then made, the method I use is to dovetail the two 'front' corners. A dado is used to hold the back in place. So the two sides and the front are cut on the dovetail jig.
Once all the dovetails are cut, a quick dry-fit is made to ensure the pieces fit together with a relatively close match between the tops/bottoms of each corner joint. The pieces are then marked along the edge that will get dado'ed for the drawer bottom. It is especially important to ensure a good flush fit on bottom edge of the side and front drawer corners. If not, when the dado is cut for the drawer bottom it may be out of line and the drawer bottom may not be able to slide into the dado cut in the drawer front due to the dado's not lining up properly.
After setting up the dado blade to cut the 1/4" wide x 1/4" deep dado's in the drawer front and sides, the depth is set simply by using a piece of 1/4" masonite. I use a 'wobble' dado blade for this step simply by personal preference and set-up time. Other methods (i.e. stacked dado, router bit, multiple cuts with standard kerf blade, etc) no problem, just try to get a good fit for the bottom into this dado cut into the sides.
After cutting the dado for the drawer bottom, check for a not-too-snug fit. Just don't want it sloppy. If it is too snug, it will be a pita to slide into place later. If the fit does turn out too snug later when you are putting the drawer bottoms in place, sanding the bottom where it fits into the dado will help.
Once the dado width of cut has been set, line up the dado to cut pretty much through the center of one of the tails. Kind of general in nature, cut it where you want, just be sure to leave enough stock under the dado to support the drawer bottom after it is loaded down. I am using Baltic Birch plywood, so a good amount has to be left so the lamination in the plywood doesn't tear out with weight in the drawer.
Dado's for the front and sides have been done.
Now set up to cut the dado for the back of the drawer, same situation -- just a bit snug. The dado for the back will be set for the 1/2" Baltic Birch. In the picture above I am checking the fit after cutting a dado in a piece of scrap.
Set up to make the cuts, leaving enough stock on the drawer sides to the 'rear' of the dado to support the back. Note the stop block attached to the fence.
Test cut made and the fit being checked.
There were 5 drawers to build, 4 for the router cabinet (2 at 3-3/4" tall, 2 at 6-1/4" tall) and 1 for a one-off cabinet being made, so -- starting out with the pieces:
5 drawers to make,
1 @ 3-3/4T x 22D x 7-1/4W,
2 @ 3-3/4T x 22D x 20W and
2 @ 6-1/4T x 22D x 20W.
Note that the 3-3/4" and 6-1/4" drawer heights are based on how my dovetail jig is set up, these two measurements give even pin/tail reveals on both top and bottom of the dovetailed drawer corner. Your dovetail jig may well produce different results -- height of the drawer sides just need to be adjusted appropriately.
Dovetail cuts were then made, the method I use is to dovetail the two 'front' corners. A dado is used to hold the back in place. So the two sides and the front are cut on the dovetail jig.
Once all the dovetails are cut, a quick dry-fit is made to ensure the pieces fit together with a relatively close match between the tops/bottoms of each corner joint. The pieces are then marked along the edge that will get dado'ed for the drawer bottom. It is especially important to ensure a good flush fit on bottom edge of the side and front drawer corners. If not, when the dado is cut for the drawer bottom it may be out of line and the drawer bottom may not be able to slide into the dado cut in the drawer front due to the dado's not lining up properly.
After setting up the dado blade to cut the 1/4" wide x 1/4" deep dado's in the drawer front and sides, the depth is set simply by using a piece of 1/4" masonite. I use a 'wobble' dado blade for this step simply by personal preference and set-up time. Other methods (i.e. stacked dado, router bit, multiple cuts with standard kerf blade, etc) no problem, just try to get a good fit for the bottom into this dado cut into the sides.
After cutting the dado for the drawer bottom, check for a not-too-snug fit. Just don't want it sloppy. If it is too snug, it will be a pita to slide into place later. If the fit does turn out too snug later when you are putting the drawer bottoms in place, sanding the bottom where it fits into the dado will help.
Once the dado width of cut has been set, line up the dado to cut pretty much through the center of one of the tails. Kind of general in nature, cut it where you want, just be sure to leave enough stock under the dado to support the drawer bottom after it is loaded down. I am using Baltic Birch plywood, so a good amount has to be left so the lamination in the plywood doesn't tear out with weight in the drawer.
Dado's for the front and sides have been done.
Now set up to cut the dado for the back of the drawer, same situation -- just a bit snug. The dado for the back will be set for the 1/2" Baltic Birch. In the picture above I am checking the fit after cutting a dado in a piece of scrap.
Set up to make the cuts, leaving enough stock on the drawer sides to the 'rear' of the dado to support the back. Note the stop block attached to the fence.
Test cut made and the fit being checked.
Black wallnut
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