Finish for Olivewood

[jking]

I turned a pen out of Olivewood last night. I have final sanding left to do, but, I'm wondering about what to use for the finish. I had planned to do a CA finish. The problem is that the wood is rather ordinary looking. Many of the olivewood pens I've seen others post have more light/dark color variation. This blank looked like it would be pretty good when I bought it, but, after turning look about as bland as pine.

Olivewood is very oily to begin with, so, I didn't think BLO would make much sense. Or, should I just put on the CA & be done with it? This is just going to be one of my pens, so, no one else to please here.

[Uncle Cracker]

Unfortunately, you're not going to be able to "brush on" a lot of character that's not there already. You can deepen the grain, but that's about it. One of the chancy things a turner deals with is whether the finished piece will have that character. This works in reverse, too, in that sometimes a piece reveals hidden character that you didn't even know was there. It's a crapshoot, and that's why I keep extra pen tubes on hand, because sometimes a piece turns out not even worth sacrificing a whole kit to complete it...

As for olivewood, I've used CA, CA/BLO, tung oil, and Turner's Magic. I think the CA or CA/BLO will work best for you, if you build up a few coats, sanding with 1000 grit wet in between.

[jking]

I know I can't make something out of nothing; just looking for ways to maybe enhance it a little bit. This is also my first time using olivewood; I've had some other blanks that really looked better just by applying the finish. Kind of wondered it olivewood might do that a little bit, too.

Do think it would be adviseable to wipe it down with acetone or accelerant first? As oily as olivewood is, what won't using BLO be kind of redundant?

[Uncle Cracker]

The BLO is more of an additive for the CA than for the finish of the wood. It smooths and buffers the curing of the CA. It wouldn't add anything by itself on an oily wood. You might be able to deepen and enrich the finish with multiple coats of CA/BLO.

[Bruce Cohen]

I've got a pair of pistol grips made out of Olive, although mine are highly figured, I've finished them using natural Watco Danish Oil, Came out great. I have had them on my .45 for about 18 years and they have held up wonderfully. Didn't use any topcoat, and it's not oily at all.

Bruce

[jking]

I've got a pair of pistol grips made out of Olive, although mine are highly figured, I've finished them using natural Watco Danish Oil, Came out great. I have had them on my .45 for about 18 years and they have held up wonderfully. Didn't use any topcoat, and it's not oily at all.

Bruce

The natural oil in the wood can cause some problems with getting a finish to adhere. The concern with no finish is due to long term handling of the unfinished wood. But, I hope you don't handle that .45 as much as I will this pen.

[Uncle Cracker]

Wanted to update this thread, as a turner friend of mine suggests that, for Olivewood, you wipe the piece down with denatured alcohol prior to finishing (give the DNA a couple hours to dry). He says it cuts down on the natural oils, and gives the finish a better hold. I haven't tried it, but it sounds like it might be worth a try...