Pen finishes

[Popeye]

Woodcraft sold me an expensive bottle of Mylands high build friction polish that I'm too dumb to apply I guess. Applied per the directions and am gettng small ridges up and down the pen. Sanded to 600 in steps and don't have ridges before the finish is applied. They still look good but it's not what I want. Don't know if it's me or the finish. What am I doing wrong?
What are you guys using? I refuse to let this lathe kick my a** although it's doing a pretty good job of it right now Pat

[final_t]

My two cents:

"It builds quickly, drying almost instantly"
What I'll bet you've got going on is perhaps too much on the cloth, and possible combinded with too high a speed. I've gotten the same problem with both CA and with Hut crystal coat. Try using less, and maybe a clean cloth or good quality paper towel.

[kwgeorge]

It is very easy to apply. Just slob it on and then wipe off the excess. Turn the lathe on and let it run for a few seconds the apply light to moderate pressure with a lint free cloth. If need be apply again. Although the results look good this finish will not last very long at all as the acids in the pen holders skin start to work on it. Looking for a more durable finish many turners like CA glue as a finish but alas I am not one of them. For a much more durable finish that what you have give Deft a try. Just wipe it on, let is sit a few seconds then wipe off the excess. Again polish with the lathe running with a lint free cloth.

Works for me and is what I do.

Ken

[Popeye]

It is very easy to apply. Just slob it on and then wipe off the excess. Turn the lathe on and let it run for a few seconds the apply light to moderate pressure with a lint free cloth. If need be apply again. Although the results look good this finish will not last very long at all as the acids in the pen holders skin start to work on it. Looking for a more durable finish many turners like CA glue as a finish but alas I am not one of them. For a much more durable finish that what you have give Deft a try. Just wipe it on, let is sit a few seconds then wipe off the excess. Again polish with the lathe running with a lint free cloth.

Works for me and is what I do.

Ken

We're talking Deft brush on lacquer? Thanks Pat

[kwgeorge]

Yep, everyday right out of the can Deft high gloss. I picked up the habit from Dick Sing and been doing it ever since. Just dab some on a paper towel and wipe it wet on the pen. Then wipe off the excess and turn the lathe on. Let it run for about 30 seconds at a fast speed then apply slight to moderate pressure with a lint free cloth to polish. Do not apply to much pressure and certainly not so much as to cause heat from friction.

After that I normally buff with a soft wheel but not all that important. Try this a few times on some test pieces you turn to get the hang of it then make that pen!

Ken

[Popeye]

Yep, everyday right out of the can Deft high gloss. I picked up the habit from Dick Sing and been doing it ever since. Just dab some on a paper towel and wipe it wet on the pen. Then wipe off the excess and turn the lathe on. Let it run for about 30 seconds at a fast speed then apply slight to moderate pressure with a lint free cloth to polish. Do not apply to much pressure and certainly not so much as to cause heat from friction.

After that I normally buff with a soft wheel but not all that important. Try this a few times on some test pieces you turn to get the hang of it then make that pen!

Ken

Thanks Ken....... Pat

[kwgeorge]

If you are bored Pat here is how I make a modified Slimline and finish with Deft.

http://www.theturnersshop.com/turnin...od/slmod1.html

Ken

[gerti]

Note that all those friction polishes contain shellac. So even though it may not say on the container, they do expire after some time. But they do seem to last a lot longer than just shellac.

Ken, thanks for the tip with the Deft, got to try that!

[Tom Hintz]

My two cents:

"It builds quickly, drying almost instantly"
What I'll bet you've got going on is perhaps too much on the cloth, and possible combinded with too high a speed. I've gotten the same problem with both CA and with Hut crystal coat. Try using less, and maybe a clean cloth or good quality paper towel.

Final-T's advice on using too much is worth way more than that. This is REALLY easy to do. I think this is one of most common lathe-related finishing mistakes I hear about in my email.
Whenever in doubt, change spots on the polishing rag and rub the piece down, repeat a couple times to be sure you don't have too much before applying more.
Incidentally, I recently got some of the Mylands and it seems to work as good or better than any other friction polish I have tried.
One thing I have been doing on pens is to sand to at least 400-grit, then apply one or two coats of CA, allowed to dry and then sanded before applying the Mylands. The CA does a good job of really smoothing out the surface and seems to give a great base for the friction polish.

[Popeye]

Yeah I feel dumb as post but.... When you guys are talking CA glue you're talking super glue or something like it correct? Now how do you apply that? Pat
PS. Ken I'm never too bored to learn something new about WW. Thanks Pat

[final_t]

Yeah I feel dumb as post but.... When you guys are talking CA glue you're talking super glue or something like it correct? Now how do you apply that? Pat
PS. Ken I'm never too bored to learn something new about WW. Thanks Pat

Yup, that's it. Get it at Woodcraft esp. when on sale, or from CA Bulk Buy:
http://woodenwonderstx.com/WW-06/CA_Glue_Page.html

Penturners.org has a lot of info on using CA, but what I do is similar to above in sanding to 320-400 grit. I put on latex gloves, put a paper towel down on the lathe, and folder a paper towel over into a wide pad-like thing. While the lathe is turning, and the towel contacting the underside of the pen body, drip a little bit on that juncture, and move the towel back and forth. I use just a little bit, and after the first pass, lightly smooth down with 400 grit and then repeat once or twice more to make a layer. Then HUT CC or PPP (I like the latter more and more). I've been experimenting with using BLO (boiled linseed oil) as a base coat first to see if it works for me or not. One result:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...rtIronwood.jpg

[bigsteel15]

If you are bored Pat here is how I make a modified Slimline and finish with Deft.

http://www.theturnersshop.com/turnin...od/slmod1.html

Ken

Great tutorial as usual Ken.

[Tom Miller]

I'll ditto what's been said about the durability (or lack thereof) of the Mylands Friction Polish finish, which is too bad since it can be a very easy finish to apply, and looks really good IMO. I use it on pieces I don't intend to handle much.

I think the trick is to get the piece spinning fast (>2000 rpm for a pen), and let a fair amount of heat build up as you press with a very clean cloth (after you've applied a couple coats at low or no speed, and let them dry sufficiently). The heat and spinning will even out the finish, and you'll see it start to shine as you progress along the pen. I usually finish up by applying one of the harder waxes using the same technique.

For a durable finish, I agree with Ken on the lacquer. The downside is that I don't find this to be quite as foolproof as the friction polish. Any friction at all will make this stuff ball up into ridges that'll require a scrape-down. Pretty much the opposite situation of the Mylands. Caveat: I don't have a whole lot of experience with the lacquer.

Also, I use the Mylands cellulose sanding sealer as my base coat.

Some folks don't like a lacquer finish; referring to it as "plastic-y" or unnatural. You might find a finish like a BLO, or similar, which will develop its own patina over time more satisfying.

Regards,
Tom