Bullseye bore

[LCHIEN]

or this:

[LCHIEN]

Got an email... $129 for set of two to fit different chucks/drills? Not sure why 2 req'd. But I've been offered 40% off preproduction offer.


I don't think I need one.

Bullseyebore $129



Commercial Milescraft drill block $8



DIY drill block $0

[LCHIEN]

They haven't said how much it costs, but... its a tech gadget (lasers and optics) and its another thing that needs batteries.

THere's cheap solutions like this (restricted to standard 1/16th increment sizes) that only cost about 8 bucks,



Or, you can use my really cheap solution.
I take a scrap of flat lumber, I kind of prefer a small piece of 2x4 maybe 3 inches long or more. I drill a perfectly perpendicular hole through it (more or less centered) using my drill press and the drill size I wish to use. Then I transfer the bit to your portable hand drill and slide the wood over the drill bit. Place the point of the bit where you have made a starting indentation, then slide the wood guide down to and flat against the surface and firmly hold it flat to the surface to be drilled, being careful to keep the bit placed. All you need to do is drill about an inch into the target. Then you can remove the wood guide block and drill the rest of the hole to any depth you want and it will continue straight. A piece of 1x material will also work but I like the thickness of the 2x4 to make sure its straight even with a little wear.

• Cheap
• Fits and works with any sized drill dia.
• but you have to have a drill press

[twistsol]

I think the point of this is less to hit a specific mark but to keep you drilling square to the surface because it will make it easy to see if you're tilted when the rings are perfectly concentric. When I need that most is when I'm putting confirmat screws on the edge of a melamine cabinet and if half the circles were missing, I don't think it would be of much help.

I use something similar to below and it works pretty well even though only half of it is on the edge of the material I'm drilling typically. It also lets me add a stop to keep the position exactly 9mm from the edge so I'm going almost perfectly into the center of the mating piece. I used to use a block of wood with a rabbet drilled square on the drill press but they kept wearing out and I needed to replace them and they weren't particularly accurate with a tapered bit.


Technically, I suppose I could use the ShopSmith set up in the horizontal boring mode, but it wouldn't fit as nicely in a tool kit.

[Black walnut]

General purpose twist drills walking off the spot in wood is a bigger problem than precise drill placement for most folks. For wood, I tend to stay with nominal inch brad point wood bits. For metal I always start with a center punch, then a center drill, then my mill or drill press depending on the precision required.

This is a pretty nifty gimmick and if I had more money than skill or experience I can see the attraction of something like this. I don't think it gives a reference point to start so how is it really useful? Just like the built-in laser on my Ryobi, it can only be correct at one point between the head(or drill motor) and point to drill.

[LCHIEN]

Cool new gadget

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.bullseyebore.com/&ved=2ahUKEwjfkITqtfCDAxVWkyYFHQyjCN8QFnoECCQQA Q&u sg=AOvVaw3RcRq6SRp3cjxMIrgkqUX9

On the otherhand some internet searching found this described as new in 2015. Guess I won't hold my breath.
I use a drill press anyways.