This is cross posted from a different forum, so other members that know me there, this is my original work, and I am doing a copy / paste AND addressing the issues that were brought up in the thread there. However I am not going to address people that completely misunderstand how spiral / helical cutterheads work and their adjustments or lack thereof.
Now on to the thread...
Yes I said that right, 10" bench top jointer. I know there is no shortage of bench top jointer haters out there, but I have owned my Sunhill 6" SM-160B now for, oh going on 14 years I guess, and the only reason I was looking to replace or upgrade it is knives are getting REALLY hard to come by for it. I have sourced up replacements but the fit is iffy at best, and setting the knives is a pain in the tail. So I was looking for an upgrade and a solution...
I snagged an end of year sale deal on the Wahuda 10", and while the build is far and away better than the Sunhill even pretended to be, with the Wahuda being predominatly metal construction and LARGE cast iron tables for a benchtop, one area Wahuda did skimp on is out of the box adjustment, at least on my unit.
As an aside, it has been brought to my attention that Wahuda is made up via a rather odd route, of the folks that started up Steel City, and from the design and build quality, I can say, yep it looks like it... but I digress...
I have watched and read countless reviews of these jointers to know plenty of folks get them and they are dialed in just fine from the factory. Mine, was NOT... The infeed table was quite high, the outfeed table was considerably low, and coplanar was not even in their vacabulary.
Now Wahuda includes a user guide, that is great for all things, except how to adjust the jointer. Why that is, I do not know. The Wahuda web site points to a Youtube video on how to adjust it. Except my jointer doesn't have the same adjustment mechanism. So I called Wahudas support line. I am sorry sir I did not catch your name, but if I could get it I would gladly give you credit for explaining it to me, and i am here explaining this to other owners / potential owners to help them out as well.
So let me clue you in. IF you have the newer style with the elongated holes that go front / back oriented, there are 4 per table, the adjustment is easy... ish.
First off, make sure you have no power to the jointer (insure it is unplugged or if you lose hunks of finger it is on you!) Loosen the 2 allen screws that secure the guard on, slide the bracket up to clear the screw keyholes and extract the guard, set it aside.
Start with the infeed table, loosen the table lock knob on the front of the front of the jointer, and then with the adjuster knob on the side, lower the infeed table all the way out of the way.
Remove the 4 plastic covers from the elongated holes on the outfeed table.
Using a trusted straight edge, I used my 4' Johnson Level that I KNOW is straight edged, and rotate the cutter head so that the cutters are at their apex or peak of rotation.
Carefully set your straight edge over the table and cutter, you should be able to see if the table needs to go up, or down or what.
Loosen the 2 visible allen bolts in each slot starting on the fence side. Then using the same allen key, in the more recessed hole there is another allen bolt the same size in that bore. Turn it clockwise to lower the table, and counter clockwise to raise the table. Adjust until you can just clear the straight edge while rotating the cutter head. Lock the 2 visible bolts down in each bore, repeat the process for the holes / side of the table facing you. Repeat as necessary until you get no gaps and lock it down. Now move on to the infeed table.
Raise the infeed until the gauge is at 0. Repeat the process of adjustment just like on the outfeed side, but you will be adjusting the the infeed so that there is no gap on your straight edge infeed table to outfeed table, front and back. Once done, lock all bolts down and verify one last time. If all is good, reinstall and tighten bolts down for your guard. Lastly reinstall the plastic bolt covers to keep junk of our the adjusters, and if you are anything like me, you will have sweated all over your machine. Clean off and re-wax your tables.
The youtube video adjustment procedure for the fence remains the same. No change at all...
If you look at my attached photos, you can see the elongated adjuster holes, both the infeed and outfeed tables have these. There is a close up of one of these bores, the 2 visible bolts are the lock downs, the center bore at the bottom has the adjuster bolt.
Hope this helps somebody out.
Now on to the thread...
Yes I said that right, 10" bench top jointer. I know there is no shortage of bench top jointer haters out there, but I have owned my Sunhill 6" SM-160B now for, oh going on 14 years I guess, and the only reason I was looking to replace or upgrade it is knives are getting REALLY hard to come by for it. I have sourced up replacements but the fit is iffy at best, and setting the knives is a pain in the tail. So I was looking for an upgrade and a solution...
I snagged an end of year sale deal on the Wahuda 10", and while the build is far and away better than the Sunhill even pretended to be, with the Wahuda being predominatly metal construction and LARGE cast iron tables for a benchtop, one area Wahuda did skimp on is out of the box adjustment, at least on my unit.
As an aside, it has been brought to my attention that Wahuda is made up via a rather odd route, of the folks that started up Steel City, and from the design and build quality, I can say, yep it looks like it... but I digress...
I have watched and read countless reviews of these jointers to know plenty of folks get them and they are dialed in just fine from the factory. Mine, was NOT... The infeed table was quite high, the outfeed table was considerably low, and coplanar was not even in their vacabulary.
Now Wahuda includes a user guide, that is great for all things, except how to adjust the jointer. Why that is, I do not know. The Wahuda web site points to a Youtube video on how to adjust it. Except my jointer doesn't have the same adjustment mechanism. So I called Wahudas support line. I am sorry sir I did not catch your name, but if I could get it I would gladly give you credit for explaining it to me, and i am here explaining this to other owners / potential owners to help them out as well.
So let me clue you in. IF you have the newer style with the elongated holes that go front / back oriented, there are 4 per table, the adjustment is easy... ish.
First off, make sure you have no power to the jointer (insure it is unplugged or if you lose hunks of finger it is on you!) Loosen the 2 allen screws that secure the guard on, slide the bracket up to clear the screw keyholes and extract the guard, set it aside.
Start with the infeed table, loosen the table lock knob on the front of the front of the jointer, and then with the adjuster knob on the side, lower the infeed table all the way out of the way.
Remove the 4 plastic covers from the elongated holes on the outfeed table.
Using a trusted straight edge, I used my 4' Johnson Level that I KNOW is straight edged, and rotate the cutter head so that the cutters are at their apex or peak of rotation.
Carefully set your straight edge over the table and cutter, you should be able to see if the table needs to go up, or down or what.
Loosen the 2 visible allen bolts in each slot starting on the fence side. Then using the same allen key, in the more recessed hole there is another allen bolt the same size in that bore. Turn it clockwise to lower the table, and counter clockwise to raise the table. Adjust until you can just clear the straight edge while rotating the cutter head. Lock the 2 visible bolts down in each bore, repeat the process for the holes / side of the table facing you. Repeat as necessary until you get no gaps and lock it down. Now move on to the infeed table.
Raise the infeed until the gauge is at 0. Repeat the process of adjustment just like on the outfeed side, but you will be adjusting the the infeed so that there is no gap on your straight edge infeed table to outfeed table, front and back. Once done, lock all bolts down and verify one last time. If all is good, reinstall and tighten bolts down for your guard. Lastly reinstall the plastic bolt covers to keep junk of our the adjusters, and if you are anything like me, you will have sweated all over your machine. Clean off and re-wax your tables.
The youtube video adjustment procedure for the fence remains the same. No change at all...
If you look at my attached photos, you can see the elongated adjuster holes, both the infeed and outfeed tables have these. There is a close up of one of these bores, the 2 visible bolts are the lock downs, the center bore at the bottom has the adjuster bolt.
Hope this helps somebody out.
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