Bridgewood Bandsaw Blade length?

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  • Bridgewood Bandsaw Blade length?

    Anybody know the blade length for a Bridgewood BW-14WBS bandsaw? I need a blade but not sure what size?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    thanks!

  • #2
    Originally posted by Stattlich1 View Post
    Anybody know the blade length for a Bridgewood BW-14WBS bandsaw? I need a blade but not sure what size?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    thanks!
    A lot of the bandsaw blade sellers can look up the bandsaw model and tell you what length you need.

    Or you can measure it. The length of the blade will be Pi x D + (2 x L).
    Pi is 3.14159 and
    where D is the diameter of the wheel and L is the distance from wheel center to wheel center.

    All measures usually in inches. To give a bandsaw blade length in inches.

    I'd do the math and then ask the seller to look up the model and make sure they agree.
    Last edited by LCHIEN; 05-02-2022, 06:48 PM.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by LCHIEN View Post

      A lot of the bandsaw blade sellers can look up the bandsaw model and tell you what length you need.

      Or you can measure it. The length of the blade will be Pi x D + (2 x L).
      Pi is 3.14159 and
      where D is the diameter of the wheel and L is the distance from wheel center to wheel center.

      All measures usually in inches. To give a bandsaw blade length in inches.

      I'd do the math and then ask the seller to look up the model and make sure they agree.
      Thanks so much, I appreciate it immensely! I'll take the measurement tomorrow for sure. I have one source stating it is 100 and 7/8th inch, and another stating it is 93.5.

      I was going to run a string around the blade itself, being a novice in such things, but even though I failed algebra in high school, I'll give that equation a go tomorrow!

      I'm pretty sure the saw came from Wilke in York, PA, however, they're now out of business from what I can tell.

      Thanks again.

      Comment


      • capncarl
        capncarl commented
        Editing a comment
        A string will work, but you can use a measuring tape, or better still a cloth measuring tape. The blade supplier should have the blade length chart. Usually you have enough slack in the tension adjustment to make up for some measuring variations.

    • #4
      The Geometry is simple.
      (Pi x D) + (2 x L).

      The length of the blade essentially is the circumference of the wheel + the length of the connecting vertical lengths (2 of them)

      So the circumference counts once, half is wrapped around half the top of the upper wheel and half around the bottom of the lower wheel
      So that is Pi x D.

      Then the connecting lengths are equal on each side to the distance between wheel centers. And there are two of them.

      If you measure directly don't use a string... way too stretchy.

      93" is the length of the classic Delta 14" bandsaw without riser... the Delta is copied many times over in the Grizzly G0555 and the Harbor Freight 14" model and countless clones.
      But i have no idea of what yours looks like, there are other 14" saws out there.
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

      Comment


      • #5
        I did some measurements this morning and it appears the 100 7/8ths blade is the one. Thanks to all for your input.

        Now, what's a good place to buy a saw blade. I cut mostly small stuff, some times up to 4 or 6 inches to round off a bowl blank, but normally in the 2 to 4 inch range.

        Click image for larger version  Name:	20220503_071533.jpg Views:	28 Size:	68.5 KB ID:	850471
        Last edited by Stattlich1; 05-04-2022, 07:41 AM.

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        • #6
          I was about to ask if you had a riser in it. That type has a different type of riser than the Delta/Grizzly/HF. It must be INSide the housing.
          Hank Lee

          Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

          Comment


          • #7
            Originally posted by leehljp View Post
            I was about to ask if you had a riser in it. That type has a different type of riser than the Delta/Grizzly/HF. It must be INSide the housing.
            Here's a picture of it....

            Click image for larger version

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            • #8
              I think you are referring to the guide. On most 14" bandsaws with risers, the riser is a cast iron spacer that raises the TOP half of the bandsaw by about 4 or 6 inches, meaning it will need a different length blade than the base/standard bandsaw.

              Example:
              https://www.grizzly.com/products/gri...roductid=g0555

              Riser block:
              https://www.grizzly.com/products/gri...5-g0555x/h3051
              Last edited by leehljp; 05-03-2022, 10:39 AM.
              Hank Lee

              Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

              Comment


              • #9
                I am not familiar with Bridgewood, but I was told once it is one of the Italian made saws and nicer than the super nice Laguna and Minimax saws

                Originally posted by LCHIEN View Post
                Good. Am I ignorant and should I know what a BW PBS is and an ABS is?
                Some kind of Band Saw?
                Sorry! BW = Bridgewood. BW makes the PBS which is a very highly regarded Italian made BS and frequently tops the charts over MM, Laguna, Agazzi, etc. ABS is the lower end line.

                Again, sorry about the abbreviations. I'm taking them too far!
                You have what I call a Eurostyle or SHeetmetal saw which has a boxy welded frame. As opposed to the cheaper but solid construction I call cast iron saws with a cast iron frame and rounded covers over the top and bottom wheels.

                Eurostyle sheet metal saw
                Click image for larger version  Name:	band-1_600x600.jpg Views:	0 Size:	44.2 KB ID:	850484
                Cast iron Delta style saw with riser.
                Click image for larger version  Name:	Delta cast iron bandsaw with riser 14 inch.jpg Views:	0 Size:	10.5 KB ID:	850485

                Usually the Eurostyle are fixed - no riser; the cast iron has a flange in the vertical neck that can be extended with a riser to increase vertical capacity by 4 inches or so but forces you to change the length (i.e. buy a whole new set) of your blades to 8" longer. It does not look like your saw as a riser, those kind generally don't but do have a larger vertical cutting height out of the box. As Hank says you are maybe thinking of the adjustable upper blade guide height adjustment.

                Your Bridgewood looks very nice and I am envious. Both in condition and by name reputation


                As for blades there are a whole range of blade widths you can get... I would suggest the Highland woodworking Woodslicer brand for a straight, ripping and crosscutting blade in 1/2 or 3/4 or the widest width yours can take.
                And then a 1/4" or even 1/8" or so for cutting tight curves and intricate work. There may be a chart on the saw as many have showing the range of blade widths - either on the back for tensioning or inside the wheel cover for radius curve cutting limits.

                More teeth per inch is going to get a finer cut but slower. You might talk tot he salesman in person and get a recommendation but Woodslicer are the best blades. I have one.
                Last edited by LCHIEN; 05-03-2022, 10:41 AM.
                Loring in Katy, TX USA
                If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                Comment


                • #10
                  I worked in a public school for 20 years. Good friends with the wood shop teacher. He had this saw in storage and sold it to me, I'll not tell you the price as it was, well, what the heck. I think I paid him $250 for it. I knew it was a good saw.

                  I'm no professional woodworker,but do tinker around with bowl turning and some other stuff.

                  Anyway, I thank all of you for weighing in on this, my first post here. I signed on just yesterday, never having been on the site before, hoping for some help. Y'all sure did rise to the occasion

                  I see now my saw has no riser. It does have quite a decent clearance through vertical adjustment though.

                  Thanks again, I sincerely appreciate your help.

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                  • #11
                    I don't know how familiar you are with bandsaws... it s quite a learning experience to be good at.
                    Normally you set the blade guide just above the work to keep the blade from flexing and wandering.
                    With 101" blade basically you should have close to 10" maximum guide height so you can make cuts in 10" thick items.

                    BTW Timberwolf brand and Lenox brand blades are also very good.

                    This is the Bridgewood 440 PBS saw... someone told me I should drool over it.
                    Click image for larger version

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                    Last edited by LCHIEN; 05-03-2022, 10:37 AM.
                    Loring in Katy, TX USA
                    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      Originally posted by LCHIEN View Post
                      I don't know how familiar you are with bandsaws... it s quite a learning experience to be good at.
                      Normally you set the blade guide just above the work to keep the blade from flexing and wandering.
                      With 101" blade basically you should have close to 10" maximum guide height so you can make cuts in 10" thick items.

                      BTW Timberwolf brand and Lenox brand blades are also very good.

                      This is the Bridgewood 440 PBS saw... someone told me I should drool over it.
                      Click image for larger version  Name:	image_28058.jpg Views:	3 Size:	42.2 KB ID:	850493
                      I've run this band saw quite a bit, and it performs very nicely. It runs circles around an old Reliant I ran years ago.

                      I ran painters tape around the perimeter of the saw blade, laid the tape out flat, and measured 101 inches. C. H. Wilke in York PA told me the saw takes 100 and 7/8th inch blade. Wilke is out of business now, but I think their number is accurate. Do y'all think a 101 inch blade will do, or should I shoot for the 100 and 7/8ths? I want to get this right the first time.

                      I'll order up a half inch, I think that's what's on it now, and likely a 1/4 inch too. And then there's the TPI?

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                      • #13
                        Suffolk Machinery (Timberwolf blades)

                        https://www.timberwolfblades.com/Blade-Selector.php#33 look at the section 3 Pack for 14" bandsaw with 10" capacity

                        They have a variety of situations which I won't pretend to know for you.

                        These guys are supposed to be tops in choices of blades and styles. I'd call and ask for their opinion... and I'm sure they'll ask what you intend to do.
                        Resawing? Scrolling? Ripping? Curves? Obviously you can buy 2 blades. With that saw I'd be tempted to get 3/4" instead of 1/2" if it can take it. Will cut straighter and smoother but the saw has to be strong enough to tension it and turn it.

                        Just offhand I think a low tooth count 3-6 tpi for the 3/4 wide blade and something like 12 tpi (10-15 tpi) for the 1/4" scrolling/curve blade is where you will probably want to be. Thinner material will want to have enough teeth in its thickness. wider material will need fewer teeth with bigger gullets (space/valley between teeth) to carry out the cuttings and not jam up so the teeth don't cut (instead burning the wood). That's what my memory serves me. I haven't bought BS blade for many years. They last a long time with modest use. Go with the expert opinion of Timberwolf/Suffolk or they guys at Highland. I'd go with Suffolk if you have a lot of questions.
                        Loring in Katy, TX USA
                        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          Thanks for the information and taking time to help me out.

                          I have in my notes that my bandsaw will take 1/4 to 3/4 width blade.

                          I'll try a 101 inch blade and see if that works. The folks at Highland woodworking say their supplier only cuts/welds to the nearest 1/4 inch.



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                          • #15
                            My current blade supplier is Blade Serpent. Overall I’ve been satisfied with their blades, with extremely fast service. I believe they cut and weld blades to order… ie, not stocking already cut blades. I buy aprox 30 blades/yr, so I shop for price.

                            If no one have mentioned it, Alex Snodgrass has several really good videos on band saw set up and blade tension.

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