Rusted Marples Chisel disaster

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  • #16
    I found a food warmer tray we've had for years but not used (the cord was still in factory windup).
    I plugged it in and it came up to 220 F, a bit hot for safety as well as possibly melting the long thin plastic bin I was going to use. (PVS melts/softens a lot at about 221F/105C.) 275 watts. No thermostat, I suspect maybe self-regulating?/equilibrium.

    So I put a Variac on it and tamed it to about 45 Volts and 41 W and it runs 130 F and the solution in the bin runs about 95 F. So it will keep it comfortably above room temperature and speed up the reaction a bit.
    Last edited by LCHIEN; 01-09-2022, 03:24 PM.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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    • #17
      So, three hours in Evaporust at 95F and the ugly brown really rough stuff is all gone.
      There's gray splotches and spots where the brown was, that you can feel is slightly raised.

      What's the next step? Wire brush with dremel or a electric drill to see it it polishes up any ?

      Need some suggestions.

      This article says steel wool on carbon steel tools should clean them up nicely.

      https://www.finewoodworking.com/foru...with-evaporust
      Good article on how Evaporust works.

      Excerpt:

      This morning, all the rust was gone — even on the inside of the kettle. The resulting metal ranged from light iron grey to dark charcoal grey. I washed the tools off, according to instructions and much of the grey disappeared. The high carbon tools did stay quite a bit darker than new and there are some darker spots here and there where there was more rust.

      I looked this up on the web site and found that the darkness is caused by carbon from the steel. The higher the carbon, the darker the result. Seems the way the product works is in a two part chemical reaction. The first step is for one component to combine with and remove the loosely bound iron in the iron oxide. Then there is a secondary reaction that binds the iron to sulphur and releases the first component to go bck and get more iron (there is a definate sulphur smell to the product at work). IT DOES NOT AFFECT IRON THAT IS NOT PART OF AN OXIDE, and so does not erode the tool, only the rust. Anyway, the carbon is left behind and that is what causes the charcoal colored film.

      I found that the carbon readily comes off with steel wool and almost no effort, leaving bright steel. Of course, any pitting from the rust is still there.
      Last edited by LCHIEN; 01-09-2022, 03:33 PM.
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

      Comment


      • #18
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        3 hours later
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        Before


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        After derusting in Evaporust 3 hours 95F
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        Finally: Made in Sheffield England

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        Last edited by LCHIEN; 01-09-2022, 04:26 PM.
        Loring in Katy, TX USA
        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

        Comment


        • #19
          Polishing compound and dremel polisher?
          Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by dbhost View Post
            Polishing compound and dremel polisher?
            what polishing compounds would you recommend (specific Amazon links perhaps) and polishing wheel for drill or dremel? (again a specific recommendation)

            Wire wheel (fine) probably too much, eh?
            https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
            Last edited by LCHIEN; 01-12-2022, 02:29 AM.
            Loring in Katy, TX USA
            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

            Comment


            • #21
              reposting:

              what polishing compounds would you recommend (specific Amazon links perhaps) and polishing wheel for drill or dremel? (again a specific recommendation)

              Wire wheel (fine) probably too much, eh?
              https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
              Loring in Katy, TX USA
              If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
              BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by LCHIEN View Post
                reposting:

                what polishing compounds would you recommend (specific Amazon links perhaps) and polishing wheel for drill or dremel? (again a specific recommendation)

                Wire wheel (fine) probably too much, eh?
                https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

                Sorry I missed your post.

                Just spitballing here, but I am thinking something like the regular Dremel cleaning and polishing kit...
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                Get them as close as you can with that, and then finish it up with Nevr-Dull...

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                One of the pocket knives that Dad gave me in my early 20s was stashed in a box and just about as crusty as those Marples chisels. I was ablet o restore the brass and steel to like new condition with this combination pretty quickly...
                Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

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