Ordered me a Branding Iron

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  • leehljp
    Just me
    • Dec 2002
    • 8429
    • Tunica, MS
    • BT3000/3100

    Ordered me a Branding Iron

    After years of jealousy of Loring's Branding Iron, I ordered me one today. Rockler had it on sale for $99. I have been wanting one for a long time but always let other tools come first. I marked it several days ago and almost let the sale slip past. Tomorrow, Nov. 18th is the last day for the sale price.

    My daughter in Springfield MO asked me last week what I wanted for Christmas and I said a "non-touch plasma cutter" knowing she wasn't going to pay that much. But I remembered the Branding Iron sale and sent a link to her. She replied back that she almost got me one last year and the year before that but it slipped her mind. She said order it, make sure LOML wraps it and she will pay for it.

    I will get a voucher for "plate" and get to choose the design; that won't get here until January, but probably in time for my birthday.

    https://www.rockler.com/custom-brand...yles-available
    Last edited by leehljp; 11-17-2021, 08:05 PM.
    Hank Lee

    Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!
  • LCHIEN
    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 20914
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #2
    Great! you'll enjoy it and amaze and astound others.

    Make sure you practice with it on scraps of the same material before branding.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

    Comment

    • capncarl
      Veteran Member
      • Jan 2007
      • 3564
      • Leesburg Georgia USA
      • SawStop CTS

      #3
      I used my branding iron a lot when I first got it. Gotta remember to keep it away from anything you don’t won’t set on fire when you put it back on the workbench to cool! It will set stuff on fire! And melt its own cord!
      A couple of the owners of art galleries that sell my Tiny Tables, trees and mushrooms commented that the branding makes the items look to “craftsy”. I agree and started signing each piece along with the type of wood it’s made out of. If it is a larger piece like a dining room table or buffet I sometimes write the origin of the wood or any historical significance. I’ve had numerous comments about the pieces that I’ve signed, saying it is a more personal touch and later on it means something to a family member being able to say my great grandfather signed this!
      capncarl

      Comment

      • LCHIEN
        Internet Fact Checker
        • Dec 2002
        • 20914
        • Katy, TX, USA.
        • BT3000 vintage 1999

        #4
        Hank, here's some food for thought.

        My storage box

        Some tests of how hot it has to be for brand marking quality (photo and spread sheet ) Rockler Branding Iron small format.xlsx

        Note that it will get really, really hot if you leave it plugged in for more than 15 minutes... it has no limiting thermostat. I don't think that's a good thing for it. I always unplug it at 12-15 minutes.
        Attached Files
        Last edited by LCHIEN; 11-24-2021, 01:28 AM.
        Loring in Katy, TX USA
        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

        Comment

        • leehljp
          Just me
          • Dec 2002
          • 8429
          • Tunica, MS
          • BT3000/3100

          #5
          Thanks Loring. I received mine yesterday. But it had the voucher for the head within it, so I opened it and ordered the head. It may not make it for Christmas, but that doesn't really matter to me that much. I'll get it within a week or two after Christmas.

          I really like your box setup. And I just looked at storage cases with foam inserts. They cost at least half as much as the branding iron! I will probably find a decent sized case and buy some foam separately. I have seen some segmented foam but I can cut my own if needed. I remember you mentioning the timer and having it WITH the branding iron. I use my phone for a timer all the time, but when I am in the shop, I often take it out or leave it I the house, especially if I am welding. Thinking about a timer.
          Hank Lee

          Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

          Comment

          • LCHIEN
            Internet Fact Checker
            • Dec 2002
            • 20914
            • Katy, TX, USA.
            • BT3000 vintage 1999

            #6
            Hank,
            I bought the blow mold case at a pawn shop for a couple of bucks. I think it says DUOFAST on the outside. They had several to choose from.
            I think I got the foam somewhere I don't remember.
            I got the timer from eBay for about 6 bucks I think. Yeah everyone has replaced mechanical timers with cell phones and LCD ones but I wanted a mechanical one with no batteries and a loud ding. I got a nice looking one for $6 I think. But I see lots of LCD timers under $10 to $6 on eBay.

            Come to think of it, I have an Alexa home assistant dedicated to voice control my shop lighting, DC, vacuum, and air compressor via WiFi remotes in the last 6 months. I can use it for a shop timer now.
            Last edited by LCHIEN; 11-24-2021, 12:31 PM.
            Loring in Katy, TX USA
            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

            Comment

            • d_meister
              Established Member
              • Feb 2009
              • 184
              • La Conner, WA.
              • BT3000

              #7
              Originally posted by leehljp
              Thanks Loring. I received mine yesterday. But it had the voucher for the head within it, so I opened it and ordered the head. It may not make it for Christmas, but that doesn't really matter to me that much. I'll get it within a week or two after Christmas.

              I really like your box setup. And I just looked at storage cases with foam inserts. They cost at least half as much as the branding iron! I will probably find a decent sized case and buy some foam separately. I have seen some segmented foam but I can cut my own if needed. I remember you mentioning the timer and having it WITH the branding iron. I use my phone for a timer all the time, but when I am in the shop, I often take it out or leave it I the house, especially if I am welding. Thinking about a timer.
              I made a number of box-joint boxes for tools and such. I made foam inserts for them, and found that the most useful tools for trimming and shaping the foam was the tablesaw to get clean straight and vertical cuts, and a gasket punch set. The tablesaw also works well to re-saw foam to get thinner pieces. The foam I used looks like the stuff Loring has in his box above.
              The gasket punches work really well for defining the corners of a fitted contour, and then straight cuts can be made with sharp snap-blade knives between punched holes..
              I tried different methods, like chucking a gasket punch in a drill, and simply locating the position of the punch, squashing the foam down, and tapping the punch. Both methods work well. Some folks use electric carving knives.

              Comment

              • dbhost
                Slow and steady
                • Apr 2008
                • 9209
                • League City, Texas
                • Ryobi BT3100

                #8
                Originally posted by LCHIEN
                Hank,
                I bought the blow mold case at a pawn shop for a couple of bucks. I think it says DUOFAST on the outside. They had several to choose from.
                I think I got the foam somewhere I don't remember.
                I got the timer from eBay for about 6 bucks I think. Yeah everyone has replaced mechanical timers with cell phones and LCD ones but I wanted a mechanical one with no batteries and a loud ding. I got a nice looking one for $6 I think. But I see lots of LCD timers under $10 to $6 on eBay.

                Come to think of it, I have an Alexa home assistant dedicated to voice control my shop lighting, DC, vacuum, and air compressor via WiFi remotes in the last 6 months. I can use it for a shop timer now.

                What smart plug are you using that can handle the inrush of a dust collector? I would love to tell Alexa turn on the dust collector!
                Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

                Comment

                • LCHIEN
                  Internet Fact Checker
                  • Dec 2002
                  • 20914
                  • Katy, TX, USA.
                  • BT3000 vintage 1999

                  #9
                  Dave,

                  I previously had the dust collector on my relay box, plans are here on the Sawdustzone site. I used a AC remote that was only rated for 10 A resistive load to turn on 30A contactor with 120 V coil, that handled the DC.

                  So I just replaced the wireless remote thing with a Wifi plug. The relay takes a lot less than an amp..
                  I have a second box that handles the Air compressor. Both the Air compressor and the DC draw about 15 A running, easily 30 A on startup.

                  Echo Show touch screen as well as voice command.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  Last edited by LCHIEN; 11-24-2021, 03:43 PM.
                  Loring in Katy, TX USA
                  If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                  BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                  Comment

                  • dbhost
                    Slow and steady
                    • Apr 2008
                    • 9209
                    • League City, Texas
                    • Ryobi BT3100

                    #10
                    I was thinking / looking into something more like a Zooz Zen15, Zwave Plus, and rated to handle 20 amps. Also with the low profile plugs, they are basically a control whip of sorts. Not terribly expensive. The light switches are all Zwave plus so the closest member of the mesh is maybe 15' down the wall at the light switch for the shop.

                    I have an echo dot 2nd gen in the shop I use to control the lights, and listen to podcasts while I am working so control is easy enough, and lacking that, Hubitat app on my phone as long as I have my own WiFi, I am not dependent upon internet or Alexa services...

                    I do need to update Zwave firmware on 2 of my switches though, and it is a PAINFUL process. Flash, disjoin, pray it worked, rejoin, pray it worked, run mesh repair as every time you rejoin an object, it has to relearn the mesh, pray it worked,, test. pray it worked, there is a theme here... Repeat. Bleh.

                    Honestly, up to the point the protocol embedded improved security, and my hub was flashed with the update, I was fine, but after, the switches occasionally act up. Notably just hang. Firmware update fixes it. Or pull the air gap switch and it stops acting up for a month...
                    Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

                    Comment

                    • capncarl
                      Veteran Member
                      • Jan 2007
                      • 3564
                      • Leesburg Georgia USA
                      • SawStop CTS

                      #11
                      Why put a timer on it? Why not just rig up a thermostat for it? Before digital was more than a word I had to replace heaters and thermostats on ribbon printers. The thermostat was a round metal piece about the size of a .410 shotgun shell, with a screw for a control.

                      Comment


                      • LCHIEN
                        LCHIEN commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Unfortunately it is not designed with a thermostat and there's no easy way to put one at the tip where it needs it. Wire insulation and thermostat challenged at 700 °F.
                        Last edited by LCHIEN; 11-24-2021, 11:02 PM.
                    • leehljp
                      Just me
                      • Dec 2002
                      • 8429
                      • Tunica, MS
                      • BT3000/3100

                      #12
                      Bringing this up again. Loring, I discovered something while branding a few items I have around the house. Different woods brand differently, Full grain such as maple and cherry do best for me; Oak Is OK. Soft wood is IFFY. And it is all me. I need to practice. Even then, if it is 6 months to a year before I do it again, I will need to practice again. I decided to include a spare board inside the box that I will make for it to practice on before I use it. It takes more eye hand coordination and perfect vertical alignment that I had realized. But when done right, it looks good.

                      As to the Timer: At first, I thought that would be a good idea to have one in the box like yours. Then suddenly I remembered that I use my smart phone for that all the time. No need for another.
                      I read four or five years ago the huge decline in alarm clock sales due to the smart phones. Of course most, if not all, have a timer in the alarm app. My timer is in my hip pocket most of the time.
                      Hank Lee

                      Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

                      Comment

                      • LCHIEN
                        Internet Fact Checker
                        • Dec 2002
                        • 20914
                        • Katy, TX, USA.
                        • BT3000 vintage 1999

                        #13
                        Yes, I have learned always to brand a scrap of the same wood before attempting to do the final piece. Maybe a couple of them to get the timing and "rocking" right to get an even impression.

                        I did suggest in post #2 of this thread, "Make sure you practice with it on scraps of the same material before branding."


                        It really pays to practice with this before using. YOu have to wait 15 minutes to heat up and 15 minutes to put away so another 15 seconds test on a scrap or two is not a big deal.
                        My usual is ten second mental countdown (one-one-thousand two-one-thousand...) and vary the time from there.
                        I think hardwoods take a little longer. Also unless the wood is very soft (cedar for example) it has to be pretty flat I mean even cedar needs to be flat but you can do rough sawn cedar if its not too wild.

                        Sanding a over burned wood piece will improve it a LOT.
                        Last edited by LCHIEN; 01-23-2022, 08:00 PM.
                        Loring in Katy, TX USA
                        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                        Comment

                        • leehljp
                          Just me
                          • Dec 2002
                          • 8429
                          • Tunica, MS
                          • BT3000/3100

                          #14
                          Originally posted by LCHIEN
                          Yes, I have learned always to brand a scrap of the same wood before attempting to do the final piece. Maybe a couple of them to get the timing and "rocking" right to get an even impression.

                          I did suggest in post #2 of this thread, "Make sure you practice with it on scraps of the same material before branding."


                          It really pays to practice with this before using. YOu have to wait 15 minutes to heat up and 15 minutes to put away so another 15 seconds test on a scrap or two is not a big deal.
                          My usual is ten second mental countdown (one-one-thousand two-one-thousand...) and vary the time from there.
                          I think hardwoods take a little longer. Also unless the wood is very soft (cedar for example) it has to be pretty flat I mean even cedar needs to be flat but you can do rough sawn cedar if its not too wild.

                          Sanding a over burned wood piece will improve it a LOT.
                          (ALL OF) This is very helpful! Thank you Loring!
                          Hank Lee

                          Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

                          Comment

                          • dbhost
                            Slow and steady
                            • Apr 2008
                            • 9209
                            • League City, Texas
                            • Ryobi BT3100

                            #15
                            FWIW, I ordered mine a while back. Yes I got the stamp that you all have seen. But I needed a makers mark for smaller pieces. Think coasters and other small trinkets.

                            I found a custom 1x1 fire heat applied brand on Amazon for $28.00 shipped. Yes it will work on an electric branding iron as well, but I have no qualms having any excuse to fire up the BBQ grill, or even just heat it up on the Coleman stove...

                            I will post an example of the branding once It comes in and I actually get it right... I will likely practice on a bunch of junk plywood first...
                            Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

                            Comment

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