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Rockwell 46-111 Lathe bearings.

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  • Rockwell 46-111 Lathe bearings.

    Finally got this thing apart by heating the step pulley with a blowtorch to expand the bore and slide it off. Was really worried about using a bearing puller. The first bearing to come out is a 6505. NOWHERE is there a reference to a 6500 series bearing, in any of the I.D. charts. 6300 medium duty, 6400 heavy, no 6500. The 6505 does denote a 25mm/52mm/18mm bearing. Would a "self aligning" bearing be the same or better as a regular deep groove?

  • #2
    No. If I remember right, a self aligning bearing has a rounded outer housing and is used in pillow block and flange mounts.... but self aligning bearings can be deep grooved as well.
    What I do when in doubt for a bearing is take it to a bearing supply store. Yellow pages or google it. They know what it is and is used for and will 99% of the time have it on the shelf. A few buck more than Amazon but you will be sure what you are get. That said, You should br able to find a 6505 bearing at, fastenal, Granger, and probably even tractor supply, and maybe a hardware store, auto parts stores, maybe but they will want to know what car it goes on. Some of the old timers in auto parts stores will look it up in their books and get you the right bearings. Don’t waste you time asking these other parts store counter clerk what the bearing is used for because it will be like the tv add for Rock Auto Parts, the clerk will peck on the computer and tell you what is in the warehouse.

    After the 6505 there might be a 2rs or something that denotes the seals. In a lathe it’s probably not that much of a problem, Any seal will work. If it is in an oil bath situation like a metal lathe powerhead you could just pop out the seal if necessary.
    Code:
    Example for a 6902 bearing

    (6)902 - This first number relates to the bearing type, 6” which is a “Deep Groove”. Occasionally you will find a “7” bearing which is a “Single Row Angular Contact”



    6(9)02 - This second number relates the bearing series, which reflects the robustness of the bearing. As you go up the scale below from 9 to 4 the inner and outer race thickness will usually increase along with the ball size, this will be to help cope with extra load.
    • 9 - Very thin section
    • 0 - Extra light
    • 1 - Extra light thrust
    • 2 - Light
    • 3 - Medium
    • 4 - Heavy



    69(02) - The 3rd and 4th digits of the bearing number relate to the bore size of the bearing, numbers 00 to 03 have a designated bore size depending on the number.
    • 00 - 10mm
    • 01 - 12mm
    • 02 - 15mm
    • 03 - 17mm

    *Note: Numbers over 03 simply have a bore size which is 5 times that of the 3rd and 4th digit.



    Suffix:
    • 2 RS - Bearing with rubber seal on both sides. RS provides a better seal but more rolling friction than 2Z.
    • RS - Bearing with rubber seal on one side, one side open.
    • 2 Z / ZZ - Bearing with a metal seal on both sides.
    • Z - Bearing with a metal seal on one side, one side open.
    • E - Reinforced Design
    • P2 - Highest precision
    • K - Bearing with taper bore

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    • #3
      you, capncarl, are a fountain of bearing knowledge/
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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      • #4
        I had to go to our local Bearings and Drives store today for replacement bearings for the Shopsmith powerhead that I am converting into a sander. 6205 bearings are about $7, and a smaller one, can’t remem the size was $6. Less than half what internet prices are for sellers advertising Shopsmith parts.
        I asked about 6505 bearings, they couldn’t find any listings. You may have some brand specific made for that application....... not likely though, or maybe you miss read it?
        You need to take it to a bearing supply store and let them measure it and reference their books.

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        • #5
          A note about bearing supply store workers...... but in my experience they are like well trained auto parts store workers, hardware store workers etc. When you hand them a part they are prone to give it a quick look and say “that’s a bla bla bla” and grab you one off the shelf. They see these items every day and are good at what they do, but they are not always right. Don’t be fooled by their confidence. In the case of bearings you should carry your calipers with you to the store and measure the new bearing against your bearing, and don’t leave until you are satisfied that you have the proper bearings. How do I know this? I’d estimate that 50% of the time the bearing store worker has given me me the wrong bearing. Nothing is worse than getting back home and find out you have the wrong part. ,

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