How Much for Used Equipment?

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    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 20983
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    Originally posted by phrog
    Thanks to Loring for a very good and useful discussion. I think I'll print that out for future reference.

    well, don't forget that's just one man's general guidelines...
    Surprised there's no other opinions.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ -


    • woodturner
      Veteran Member
      • Jun 2008
      • 2047
      • Western Pennsylvania
      • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

      Originally posted by LCHIEN
      Surprised there's no other opinions.
      You know what they say about opinions (Opinions are like _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ - everyone has one, but no one wants to look at the other guy's)

      When I buy used equipment, I am looking for a bargain. For a unit in apparently top "mint" shape, I might go 50% of actual retail, not MSRP. Most times, for used equipment, I would pay 10% or less of retail for used equipment. I've had too many issues with used equipment that had hidden problems or was misrepresented.

      The exception is equipment I buy through the woodworkers guild - equipment sold by the club for the widow of a deceased member. If I knew the member and knew he was particular about his equipment, I will pay more to help out the widow.
      Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night


      • cabinetman
        Gone but not Forgotten RIP
        • Jun 2006
        • 15218
        • So. Florida
        • Delta

        Originally posted by LCHIEN
        well, don't forget that's just one man's general guidelines...
        Surprised there's no other opinions.

        I've bought and sold my share of used equipment. I find the retail price has little to do really with the price of used equipment. How desperate either the buyer or seller may be usually sets the scene. As a buyer, I wouldn't buy anything sight unseen. I will have a price in my mind what I think it's worth, and what I'm willing to spend.

        In my wallet I will have nearly enough (but short) the amount of money being asked. In a pocket I'll have what I think is my best deal. It's not that I like negotiating, but it may come to that. So, he gives his price, and I pull out my offer (in big bills). If that doesn't grab it, I may dip into the wallet if I want it bad enough.

        This works as well when buying a used motorcycle too.


        • jussi
          Veteran Member
          • Jan 2007
          • 2162

          70% of my equipment is from CL or garage sales. 20% from crazy deals found on woodworking forum. The other 10% I pay retail because it's stuff I need right away or never goes on sale.

          I'm pretty cheap so I almost never pay more than 50% the lowest street price. Most items I buy are well below 50%. I typically use Amazon as a barometer. Plus you have the whole matter of being stuck with a tool that breaks. Most people understand that unless you put price is firm on the ad it usually implies that the price is negotiable. So if it's something I want but not necessarily need I typically ask if the seller will take a lower price. There are alot of woodworkers in my area however, so I have to be pretty vigilant when new deals come. Rss feeds and push notifications help alot. Typically a killer deal is sold within a few hours of posting. And obviously if such a deal is posted I pay the asking price. I also never come right out and commit to a sale without seeing the item first but if I'm really interested I'll say something like... If everything is as described and in good working order I'll take it.
          I reject your reality and substitute my own.