So my SKIL 1825 is not a safe router?

[phi1l]

I can't bring up Woodcraft right now but this one should work, or in the worst case, you can use the centering pin to drill you own holes.

[JimD]

I'm not familar with that router but the most important thing on a router is the collet. If it grips bits securely - as evidenced by the depth of cut staying constant even on a maximum cut - then I would say it is safe to use. If there were a problem with the base or motor casting, I think you would see the crack before it became unsafe to use. And it seems like a small risk.

I've made these sort of bases several times. I find it a little hard to get the holes perfectly centered but if you need to, you can give yourself a little wiggle room in the attachment screws to allow you to move it into alignment. I use inexpensive forstner bits, some from HF and some I got from another place - and they are worse than HF but work.

Jim

[LCHIEN]

All this began when I needed a sub-base with the right opening to fit P-C style bushings.

In a fit of DIY I went ahead and bought an acrylic sheet from HD (.22" thick), and realized I'd need to cut a stepped hole in it : a 1 3/8" from one side and a 1 3/16" from the other sides and I don't have forstner bits this large. Pat warner's .35" thick subbase seemed like a deal.

I could still buy from him : he sells blank pieces that I could drill myself. But I'm thinking shop-made again. Apart from buying forstner bits that large, I'm not sure of any other method of making such opening; need to shop for forstner bits...

I would not try to cut concentric holes with a forstner for this application.

This is done for thicker wood pieces but, using a smaller Forstner to drill an accurate and centered hole smaller than the desired size,
its possible to use a router with
1. a Rabbetting bit with an assortment of bearings and
2. a flush trim bit
to makes stepped holes, and to
step the original hole up in precision increments


To make a 1-3/16th hole you can start with an 11/16th hole and then use a rabbeting bit set for a 1/4" rabbet. Set the rabbet depth to 1/2 the thickness and rabbet the hole. Now you'll have a stepped hole with the larger diameter 1/4" larger than the small hole.
Then use a flush trim bit with the bearing on the larger diameter to enlarge the entire hole... this will now be an accurate 1-13/16". the main problem will be finding an 11/16th Forstner... most of them come in 1/8" multiples. But it will be much easier and cheaper to find a 11/16th bit than a 1-13/16th bit.

To make a 1-3/16 thru hole to a 1-3/8" stepped hole perfectly centered, use a router with a rabbetting bit with a 3/32" smaller radius bearing to cut a 3/32 step half the thickness of the base. Bearings are available in many sizes other than the ones that come with the typical rabbetting bit.

I have to think back... if the smaller part of the stepped hole is what centers the router guide bushing, then the larger hole can be a bit oversize... like 1-7/16th would be 1/32 oversize and you could use a 1/8" difference bearing (probably easier to find than a 3/32") for making the step.

Amazon has some inexpensive 11/16 ($6.50) and 1-13/16" ($8.50) forstners sold singly.
http://www.amazon.com/Steelex-1-3-16-FORSTNER-BIT/dp/B0000DD32V/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1266415270&sr=1-2

[sweensdv]

I'd not worry about what Pat Warner says about your chosen router. From what I have seen Pat Warner is wrong about all sorts of things router related. ..............

That's a pretty bold statement, care to enlighten us with some specifics?

[phi1l]

I would not try to cut concentric holes with a forstner for this application.

This is done for thicker wood pieces but, using a smaller Forstner to drill an accurate and centered hole smaller than the desired size,
its possible to use a router with
1. a Rabbetting bit with an assortment of bearings and
2. a flush trim bit
to makes stepped holes, and to
step the original hole up in precision increments

Ya there are easier ways, if I couldn't buy a generic sub-base to drill my own holes in, I would cut one sized hole in one piece, the other sized hole in a second piece & glue them together. then drill router soecific mounting holes in the glue up.

[phi1l]

I would not try to cut concentric holes with a forstner for this application.

This is done for thicker wood pieces but, using a smaller Forstner to drill an accurate and centered hole smaller than the desired size,
its possible to use a router with
1. a Rabbetting bit with an assortment of bearings and
2. a flush trim bit
to makes stepped holes, and to
step the original hole up in precision increments

Ya there are easier ways, if I couldn't buy a generic sub-base to drill my own holes in, I would cut one sized hole in one piece, the other sized hole in a second piece & glue them together. then drill router soecific mounting holes in the glue up.

[Black wallnut]

That's a pretty bold statement, care to enlighten us with some specifics?

So as to not derail the current conversation I'll simply say that IMHO a plunge router is ideal for table use. Read what Pat has written on his website about router selection. He and I do not agree. Bob and Rick of Router Workshop fame seem to also disagree with Pat.

Also IMHO just because a person is widely publised does not mean they are right.

[sweensdv]

................
Also IMHO just because a person is widely publised does not mean they are right.

Nor does it make them wrong just because some may disagree with their take on something. In woodworking there are many ways to get to the same destination with no one way being right or wrong.

[radhak]

Ya there are easier ways, if I couldn't buy a generic sub-base to drill my own holes in, I would cut one sized hole in one piece, the other sized hole in a second piece & glue them together. then drill router soecific mounting holes in the glue up.

I will need to read Loring's post again to absorb the technique, but this could be a good way to go too. Maybe with the 0.22" and 0.093" acrylics sheets from HD could do it?

I find MLCS has bits for 1-13/64" and 1-3/8"; close enough?

I had a thought of making these concentric : how about I drill a tiny hole with my tiniest bit through the material; then use one forstner bit from each side, for a very carefully calliberated depth (1/8" for the larger one, and the rest for the smaller one)? The tiny hole would serve as the center of the circle from both sides, making the final hole(s) really concentric?

[Black wallnut]

Dave what makes him wrong is statements like " To put this tool upside down in a router table not only ignores its designers intent, its presence there compromises the integrity of the work surface, frustrates the smooth travel of the work and complicates the construction of the whole router-table." from his website http://www.patwarner.com/plunge_or_fixed.html Although I prefer to use a plunge router I accept that others may rather use a fixed base. It is a matter of technique not engineering. His writing as if his opinions are statements of fact when they are simply opinions makes him wrong. Different strokes for different folks is my way of thinking. Pat seems to have a one design fits all mentality. HIs quoted statement may only be true when one adopts his choice for a router table, and maybe not even then.

[phi1l]

I find MLCS has bits for 1-13/64" and 1-3/8"; close enough?

The smaller sized hole is the most critical, so I would look harder for a 1 3/16 if you can't readily find one. The larger diameter is just to provide clearance for the lip on the guide bushing, so absolute concentricity is not essential. It just has to be large enough and deep enough so the lusrface of the bushing is above the surface of the base. ....

But, actually, I wouldn't bother, I would get this and, if none of the holes fit that router, I would use the centering pin to help locate the position for custom mounting holes.

[radhak]

At this point, the idea of DIY is appealing just for the fun of it .

But if I have to buy, I'd rather buy the blank (no holes for mounting screws) from Warner from which he would have the center cut out for the bushing.

For one, I'd get a plain base with no extraneous holes; another - I think the woodcraft base allows the lower lip of the bushing to sit proud of the sub-base, while Warner's method makes it level with the rest of the base. My guess is it'd be less chance for the router to wobble.